This month, Nikon released the Z5IIC, which is essentially a version of its Z5II mirrorless camera, but with the viewfinder removed and a lower price point. And while that top-line summary is closer to the whole story than usual, there are a few nuances that are worth looking at if you’re trying to decide between the two models.

No EVF

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

The most obvious difference between the two cameras is that the Z5II has a (particularly nice) electronic viewfinder that you can use in sunny conditions, or when you’d prefer not to look at a rear screen, and the Z5IIC does not. How much that will bother you comes down to personal preference; are you willing to give up an EVF to save some money, and do you value you the camera being a bit smaller and easier to get into and out of a camera bag?

While both the Z5IIC and the Z5II have 3.2″ fully-articulating displays, the one on the more expensive, full-size model is a bit higher-resolution at 2.1 million dots, versus the Z5IIC’s 1.04M. That’s not as big a difference as those numbers may seem – they equate to 1024 x 682px and 720 x 480px, respectively – but while we found the screen to be quite usable, it is undoubtedly not quite as nice. Neither comes all that close to a display you’d find on a smartphone, though.

Storage

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

This is another relatively simple arena: the Z5II has two UHS-II card slots, while the Z5IIC has one. This could be a slight annoyance when shooting video, where it can be nice to have your recording automatically roll over to a second card once you’ve filled one up, and can bring some peace of mind if you’re a photographer worried about the possibility of your card dying before you can offload it (something that can happen, but very rarely). That assurance is also nice if you’re capturing a once-in-a-lifetime event or trip.

Most shooters, however, will be perfectly well-served by a single card-slot camera. And in cases where you absolutely must have backups, Nikon’s app lets you automatically transfer 8MP JPEGs from your camera to your phone as you take them. (Unfortunately, there’s no option for full-size JPEGs or Raws, unless you have the camera directly connected to Wi-Fi and set to automatically upload to Nikon’s Imaging Cloud service).

Controls and handling

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

The Z5IIC and Z5II have, once again, very similar controls, with essentially the exact same mix of programmable buttons on the top, rear and front plates. (The one difference: by default, the button to the right of the mode switch on the Z5II is set to AF On, while on the Z5IIC it’s focus and exposure lock, though either can be customized to behave like the other). Likewise, both cameras have twin top-plate control dials.

The one control omitted on the Z5IIC is a joystick, leaving you to control your AF point using the touchscreen or the multi-directional controller. When we were using it, we frequently found ourselves reaching for the nonexistent joystick, since it can be more convenient than using the touchscreen, especially if you’re shooting at odd angles. But at least we never had to worry about how to control the focus point when we had the camera’s EVF up to our eye…

There is one other difference between the two: the Z5II has three user-defined settings on its mode dial, while the Z5IIC only has two, replacing the third with a “Scene” setting.

Scene modes

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

Choosing the Scene setting lets you select what you’re trying to take a picture of and have the camera automatically optimize some of its settings for it. For instance, if you set it to sports, the camera will do its best to choose a fast shutter speed. If you instead tell it you’re trying to capture a dusk or dawn scene, it’ll set the white balance to preserve the colors as your eye sees them.

This isn’t a feature Nikon has included on its full-frame cameras before, so it’s absent on the Z5II. This may make the Z5IIC seem more attractive if you’re looking for your first camera and aren’t accustomed to having full control over the wide variety of settings mirrorless cameras offer. (However, we believe you’ll be better served by learning to make those decisions yourself, rather than using a somewhat clunky mode that can restrict your creative freedom).

Size and weight

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

Despite the Z5IIC’s lack of an EVF, it isn’t substantially lighter than the Z5II. It comes in at 620g (22oz), versus 700g (25oz), a mere 11% reduction.

Likewise, it’s only marginally shorter at 81mm (3.2″) tall, rather than 101mm (4.0″). We did find the lack of an EVF hump meant it was easier to slip in and out of a camera bag, but it being the same thickness and width as the Z5II means you’ll probably need to have a dedicated bag to carry it around in. Once you have a lens mounted, it’s a bit big for all but the roomiest of purses, and would struggle to fit in even the most generous of jacket pockets.

Autofocus

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

Both cameras have very similar autofocus systems, with all the features we’d want from a modern mirrorless option, including the ability to recognize and track various subjects. And while we haven’t done our in-depth testing on the Z5IIC yet, the experience we’ve had with it gives us no reason to suspect that it won’t perform the same as the Z5II.

The one other autofocus difference: the Z5II has an AF assist lamp, which the camera can use to add a little extra illumination when it’s trying to focus in an extremely dark scene. The Z5IIC trades this for a tally light to indicate when the camera is recording video.

Pricing, now and in the future

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

Many people have been quick to point out that, at the moment of the Z5IIC’s launch, you can buy a standard Z5II for around the same money, or even less. And if that’s the still the case as you’re reading this, our advice is straightforward: you should buy the Z5II.

However, it’s worth keeping in mind that MSRP is always an opening bid. This is likely the most expensive the Z5IIC will ever be (at a price that still makes it the joint second least expensive full frame camera ever), and, based on past pricing trends, we expect it will be sold for remarkably cheap after a few months on the market. That is, after all, what it seems to be designed to do. If and when you can buy it for as much cheaper than the Z5II as the delta between the cameras’ MSRPs suggests, it’ll be a much easier recommendation if you’re trying to save some money while starting a new hobby.

Summary

The Z5IIC and Z5II are much more alike than they are different. Beyond what we’ve covered in this article, they’re essentially the same, spec-for-spec, with the same stabilized sensor, mechanical shutter, burst rates, ports, video modes and more. It’s remarkable how inexpensive Nikon has managed to make the Z5IIC without making it feel cheap, both in terms of features and build.

Deciding between the two will largely depend on your budget and how much you value an EVF and the other features the Z5II offers.

Nikon Z5II

Nikon Z5IIC

Meet Jean-Pierre Zanotti

Home base: Toulon, France

Jean-Pierre Zanotti, known as JP Zanotti in the forums, is a Toulon-based photographer who explores the remains of abandoned buildings across France and Italy. Working primarily with Fujifilm X-series cameras and ultra-wide lenses, he captures the light, objects and human traces left behind in these forgotten spaces.

“I’ve been doing this since my teenage years, so a long time now. I got into photography through astronomy, which I practiced with a club. The ever-present clouds of my native Lorraine home quickly pushed me toward something else: the decaying industrial sites that dotted the region. I later took a long exposure (pun intended) to raise my children, then picked this dusty road back up – digitally this time.”

Our ‘What’s in your bag?’ community spotlight series features readers sharing their favorite gear and photography, including from past DPReview collaborators. See below for what Lester has to share.

What’s in Jean-Pierre’s bag

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

Favorite cameras(s): Fujifilm X-T2, Fujifilm X-T3 and Fujifilm X-T5

Favorite lens(s):

• Fujinon 8mm F3.5, 16mm F1.4, and 56mm F1.2
• Viltrox 9mm F2.8 Air and 13mm F1.4

“I gradually converged on Fujifilm back in 2014, after going through Canon, Nikon, Olympus and Sony along the way. For what I shoot, it simply delivers the best overall image quality. For years, the Fujinon XF 10-24mm F4 was my main companion – most of the images here were shot with it – before I moved on to fixed focal lengths that suited me better: the Viltrox 9mm F2.8 Air and 13mm F1.4.”

Must-have accessories: “An ultra-light rain jacket, folded down small, since some spots are one hour or more on foot – there’s no turning back to the car if the weather turns. And obviously, food and water.

If I had to pick one favorite thing, it’s the X-E5 paired with the Viltrox 9mm – that combination handles the tight, cluttered interiors I shoot in better than almost anything else in my bag.”

Any more unusual accessories you carry?

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

“Does a folding Silky saw for clearing branches count? It’s amazing how quickly vegetation reclaims the abandoned areas I photograph, sometimes literally blocking the way in.

I also carry an inflatable LED light stick and a small 3.5×3.5-inch LED panel for pitch-black spaces. That said, I rarely actually shoot with them: artificial light tends to look wrong in this kind of photography, so they’re mostly there as a distant fill when nothing else will do, or just so I can see where I’m walking. I still bring a Nodal Ninja panoramic head occasionally, but modern ultra-wide lenses have improved so much that I rarely need it anymore.

For abandoned buildings, bring a sturdy 5-meter cord to haul camera bags up high places. And bring with you a hard hat, Petzl headlamp, tough clothing, high boots, clear safety glasses to keep debris out of your eyes, a dust mask and flexible yet sturdy gloves for handling broken glass.

All of it goes into a Lowepro Flipside Trek BP 350 AW, and I love it: lightweight, genuinely tough and with enough real capacity to fit all the gear I just listed.”

What about abandoned buildings is so interesting to photograph?

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

“What draws me in is anything that still holds real photographic potential – and that potential rarely depends on the place being spectacular. Sometimes the most striking shot comes out of the plainest room: a bare corridor, an empty doorway, where the light and the composition just happen to align. I live in the south of France, with Italy just two hours away, so a lot of what I shoot comes from there.

The most memorable trip I took was an entire day, alone, in a former psychiatric hospital in Italy. It’s one of those rare places that has everything at once – strong photographic potential in nearly every room, an unusual density of objects and traces left behind, a history that’s genuinely unsettling once you start reading into it, and an atmosphere that’s hard to describe to someone who hasn’t experienced it.

Spending a full day there, completely alone, gave me the strongest sense of time travel I’ve ever had on one of these expeditions. It’s still the single most impactful place I’ve visited.”

What’s changed since the beginning?

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

“I’ve practiced street photography for years, as I’ve seen others in the DPReview community do. I think it’s shaped how I see these places, even though the two couldn’t be more different on the surface – one is pure instinct, the other pure patience. What connects them, I think, is an interest in people, whether they’re right in front of the camera or long gone.

There’s nothing mystical about it: a room still holds the shape of the lives that were lived in it – how furniture was arranged, what was left on a shelf, which door got used most. Reading that is, in its own way, still photographing people, just at one remove.

Really, it’s less about the type of place than what happens once I’m inside. Silence is the first thing that hits – a total absence of noise that’s genuinely rare to experience today. The light is almost always diffuse, filtered through vegetation that’s reclaimed the space or through windows boarded up to keep intruders out. Whatever the building was – a factory, church, hospital, home – it all triggers the same immediate shift into another time.”

Taking a moment to plan a shot is a common theme among veterans. What does this mean for your photography?

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

“Some of these sites are so overwhelming that I get a kind of shooting frenzy – the urge to photograph everything at once – and that’s exactly when concentration goes out the window. These places are abandoned, but that doesn’t mean private or safe, so there’s no coffee break to fall back on; you just have to force yourself to slow down.

Then it’s a checklist: setting to the lowest native ISO, tripod fully deployed and stable – no exceptions, ever – bracketing almost as a systematic precaution, manual focus with focus peaking, and a thorough blower cleaning, since dust becomes a real problem on wide-angle shots against the light. I step back from the tripod to avoid transmitting any vibration through the floor during long exposures. Then, a careful check of sharpness before moving on. All told, a single shot can easily take five to ten minutes to set up.

If you’re tempted to try this kind of adventure, take real precautions and don’t be reckless. Accidents always happen exactly where you least expect them – never where the danger looks obvious.

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

And on gear: don’t let it become an excuse. I’ve made large prints I’m genuinely proud of with a Canon PowerShot A70 (bought new for $449) and a secondhand $50 Panosaurus head, and shot excellent large-format results with an old Olympus bridge camera and a wide-angle converter. The gear in this article helps, but it was never the reason any of these photos worked.”

Jean-Pierre really enjoyed participating in this spotlight article and would love to hear what you think of his photography and to answer any of your questions in the comments below.

You can check out Jean-Pierre’s other work at jpzanotti.com.

Editor’s note: This article continues a series, ‘What’s in your bag?’, highlighting DPReview community members, their photography and the gear they depend on. Would you like your photography to be featured in a future installment? Tell us a bit about yourself by filling out this form.

This is the concluding article looking at why our perspective on cameras’ prices can seem out-of-step with other people’s initial reactions, on the day of launch. And it covers that fact the MSRPs always seem expensive, at first.

I don’t think we’ve reported on many launches without at least some people commenting, “it’s too expensive, what are they thinking?” or some variation thereof. And then comparing the price to the cost of an outgoing model, the price they paid for something in a sale, years earlier, or a second-hand deal on a completely unrelated camera type.

All of which is to miss the point. MSRPs aren’t the same thing as street prices and, although they’re quoted in the same units, they’re not particularly comparable.

MSRPs are the manufacturer’s opening gambit: they generally represent the highest price they’ll ever get for a product. An ‘early-adopter tax’, in many instances.

On the day of launch, all cameras look over-priced because their peers have been on the market for a while, their prices have softened somewhat, or they’ve explicitly been put on sale. And those MSRPs look even more overpriced if you compare them to the outgoing model, or a previous one because the manufacturer and retailers are trying to get rid of them, before they become impossible to sell.

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

But, just in case it needs saying: no manufacturer can introduce a new product at the narrow-to-no margin price that the outgoing model is being flogged-off at. Nor can they sensibly consider the second-hand prices of decade-old higher-end models, when setting prices.

This all varies somewhat between markets. In the US, list prices are more aggressively maintained than in Europe and the UK, where retailers have more freedom to offer some sort of discount fairly soon after the camera hits the shelves. This, along with Euro and Sterling prices usually being quoted including tax, is a big part of why US prices typically appear cheaper at first: because the US list price is set at a level that more people will have to actually pay.

None of which is an attempt to say you should just pay the MSRP on Day 1: quite the opposite. If an older, higher-end model is still floating around when the new model is launched and it suits your requirements, you should probably buy that. Our attempts to put pricing in a longer-term context aren’t an attempt to encourage you to buy something at full price.

But if history has repeatedly shown that those old models disappear from the market and the price of the new camera drops to a level comparable to others launched at the same MSRP, then it would be perverse and unhelpful to pretend we don’t know this. We want our reviews to still make sense a month or so after publication, which they won’t if we declare all new cameras “overpriced” despite what we know will happen next.

MSRPs let us see how things are positioned, relative to one another. They help us understand the price point, rather than the literal consumer price, of a camera.

Inflation muddies the waters still further, and prices are going up, but it’s worth remembering that launch prices have always looked too high. Even for that camera you’re now holding up as an example of what this new model should cost.

Camera prices, like most other prices, are going up. Part of this has been manufacturers focusing on high-end users, because they tend to buy the higher-margin products. But even attempts at making more accessible cameras can seem wildly expensive, compared to the prices we remember paying.

And that’s not a question of manufacturers being foolish or greedy. Whether we like it or not, we are living through a period of higher inflation than we’re used to.

This is the first of a two-part series looking at why the perspective on cameras’ prices in our reviews can seem out-of-step with other people’s initial reactions, on the day of launch.

Many of us lived through a more than twenty-year period of relatively low inflation. Prices of most things rose by around 2% per year, the cost of electronics fell, partly with the outsourcing of manufacture and through increased efficiencies and economies of scale. Wages typically kept pace with inflation, so things didn’t feel more expensive. Large sensor digital cameras got cheaper at first, then settled into a pattern of improving while maintaining their existing price.

Richard Butler

Sadly, that’s no longer the world we live in. It’s impossible to enumerate all the factors that got us to here without spiraling off into discussions of politics, but there have been a host of inflationary pressures over the past few years. Whether it’s supply-chain shocks, tariffs, wars putting pressure on oil and gas prices or out-of-control demand for processors and RAM, there’s more pushing prices up than encouraging them to drop.

Manufacturer’s materials and energy costs have gone up. Their component prices have become erratic. Their wages have gone up. Their logistics costs have increased. They cannot make cameras for the prices we used to pay. And, because of the way inflation works, the $1000 you had planned for your next purchase simply isn’t worth as much as that figure have been, five or six years ago.

I suspect it’s not just me who finds myself marveling at articles or footage from the 70’s showing a pint of beer priced in pennies or a gallon of ‘gas’ in cents. To a more modern ear, that just seems unimaginable, and it’s hard to see how we got from there to where we are. For most of my adult life, the changes have been incremental enough that I didn’t notice the jump. But thinking back to when I was at college, a pint in my favorite pub was £1.36. I visited the same pub this summer, and it was £5.30. Those little changes have ramped up into big ones in the past few years, and now the prices of my own yesteryears are beginning to seem impossibly distant. 

The same thing is happening with cameras, and just about all manufactured products: the value of money is dropping faster than any reduction in the cost of electronics (and a lot of key components are being bought for AI, before it can get anywhere near consumer products). Also, there’s every chance that it’s been some time since you last bought a new camera, and that precisely remembered reference point is no longer realistic.

None of which is to say that we have to like it. I’m not trying to defend it, or suggesting you should (or even can) just decide it doesn’t matter. But getting frustrated about it or insisting that the latest camera should cost what your last one did, pre-pandemic, isn’t going to change things. None of us enjoys it, but pretending inflation doesn’t exist or that rising prices are down to manufacturer misjudgment or greed doesn’t get you anywhere useful.

Every photographer has a first moment when they realize their time behind the camera is something they truly care about. For some, the spark comes from a chance encounter with a unique camera in a shop window or from the skills of a beloved relative who’s also into photography. For others, it stems from a childhood TV hero, or perhaps an interest to document family life.

Last week, we asked our community what set their photography journey in motion, and the replies were as varied as the photographers themselves. Read on to see what sparked the DPReview community into photo-taking action.

lumigraphics: I was in the Navy when Queen Elizabeth made an official state visit to my ship (USS Ranger in San Diego, 1983). I only had a little 110 camera and wanted better results, so I bought a Canon AE-1 Program from the ship’s store, and the rest is history. 43 years later, I’m a working pro. Might be the only person around who is a photographer because of the Queen.

Dimpsey: Early morning trips to buy bread rolls for breakfast. The bakery often wasn’t open, but the chemists across the road had cameras in their window. One was all shiny silver knobs and a gleaming top plate. It was utterly irresistible, and I wanted it. That was over 60 years ago, and I’m still taking the camera(s) out today!

SGA

SGA: As a kid, I wanted to be Jimmy Olsen, Cub Reporter. I loved watching him on the original Superman TV show, running around Metropolis with his old folding camera. But all my parents got me was a Kodak Brownie, which used 127 film.

NorCalPhotonFoundry: My grandfather was a lifelong photography enthusiast, and when I was 6 or 7 years old, he gave me a cheap little plastic point-and-shoot camera for Christmas. For me, the “spark” was the magic of being able to capture, keep and share a moment or perspective; something which still brings me joy to this day. I still have and use my childhood QL17, and am grateful to my grandpa for giving me that first plastic point-and-shoot.

Alun Thomas: My interest was kindled by my cycle touring interest. I would go on forums to read others’ trip reports and wonder why my photos were so rubbish compared to theirs. So I bought a Sony A5100, then soon started buying different lenses. I eventually switched to full-frame, and now the hobby is more prominent for me than cycling.

GWKilgore: I grew up hunting. I was in my 30s when I went out to Oregon in 1975 to hunt mule deer. Right after sunrise, I bagged a nice buck. I was worn out and told my hunting companions this was too much work. I said that I would trade my rifle for a camera.

GatoAmarillo

Gato Amarillo: I think it might have started here (see photo above). That’s me in about 1952 with my father and sister at the Tri-State Fair in Amarillo. The photographer was from one of the local newspapers, and I still vaguely remember being fascinated by the big camera. It was another 20 years or so before I started serious photography myself, but I suspect that experience was the spark.

Edgar_in_Indy: When we started having kids in the early 2000’s, my wife and I would go to one of the franchised photography studios at the mall. It would kill us to see the screen fill up with dozens of great pictures of our child, but only be able to pick a handful due to the cost of each picture.

I ended up buying an early DSLR and a couple of old studio strobes and never had to visit those mall studios again. I’m not sure we actually saved any money in the long run, given my camera collection, but we have so many great family photos from over the years.

GeoInSD: When I was a child, my family used cheapie cameras, like Kodak Brownies and Instamatics. I remember seeing my granduncle having an SLR system that I thought was pretty cool. My interest in photography started when I took a photography class in high school. I was stunned by the vastly superior image quality of a 35mm SLR compared to Kodak Brownies and Instamatics.

I was not an early adopter of digital. I held off until shutter lag was comparable to film AND the DSLR body was under $1000 US. The Nikon D70 was the first DSLR that met those criteria in my book.

There are many other stories from our community. We would love for you to join in on the discussion!

With the release of Adobe Camera Raw 18.7, we now have Raw support for the OM System PEN, bringing us one step closer to being able to complete our review.

As you might expect, the PEN’s performance is a match for that of the OM-5 Mark II, with which it shares a sensor and processor. This may seem obvious but we have to check, to be certain that our assumptions about shared components are correct and that there are no unreported changes to the processing. It also ensures that you can select the OM System PEN in our test scene, if you want to make any comparisons in future.

Its 20MP sensor captures a good level of detail (our test scene gives a slight benefit to 4:3 aspect ratio cameras, reducing the already minor difference between the PEN and the 24MP of the Canon EOS R10). In terms of noise the PEN’s performance is a little behind the larger sensor of the Nikon Z50II, but it’s not significantly noisier than the Canon, whose 1.6x crop sensor seems to slightly underperform expectations.

The PEN’s performance is entirely in keeping with what we’d expect to see from a modern sensor, backing up the results we got when shooting its sample gallery. We’ve already seen that the JPEG engine can produce a range of attractive results and these confirm that the technical underpinnings are sound.

Meet Peter Swan

Home base: Durham, England

Peter Swan, known as TheDispossessed in the forums, is a Durham-based nature photographer who has found a hidden world of subjects in the small things many people overlook. His compact Micro Four Thirds kit is built around an Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II and a 60mm macro lens. The selectively chosen diffused flash helps him reveal the color, texture and character of insects and other smaller creatures – from garden regulars to rare British butterflies.

“I first got into photography properly when I purchased my first digital camera, a Canon PowerShot S60, back in 2004. Back then, my main subjects to photograph were landscapes and cityscapes. I got my first DSLR a couple of years later (a Canon 350D) in 2006. This led me to become interested in photographing subjects that required specialized lenses – for example, those capable of 1:1 macro. Since then, I’ve steadily built up a collection of photographic gear but have gravitated towards the micro four-thirds format for its overall convenience.”

Our ‘What’s in your bag?’ community spotlight series features readers sharing their favorite gear and photography, including from past DPReview collaborators. See below for what Lester has to share.

What’s in Peter’s bag

Peter Swan

Favorite cameras(s): Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II

Favorite lens(s):

• Olympus 60mm F2.8 macro (“my favorite lens”)
• Olympus 100-400mm F5-6.3
• Olympus 25mm F1.2
• Panasonic 12-32mm F3.5-5.6
• Panasonic 35-100mm F4-5.6

“All five lenses and the camera can easily fit in my backpack with space for food, waterproofs, etc. If need be, I can even squeeze in my Panasonic GX9, which semi-permanently has the 7-14mm F4 lens attached – such are the benefits of the micro four thirds system!”

Must-have accessories: “A Nissin i40 flash that is held together with duct tape, Marumi DHG Achromat 200 close-up lens and a Cygnustech diffuser – all alongside a couple of polarising filters.

I usually bring food, water, waterproof clothing, and most importantly, a tick remover. When you’re out searching for minibeasts in the undergrowth, it is only a matter of time before you pick up a tick, so it’s best to get them out quickly and safely to minimize the risk of picking up a tick-borne disease.

All of it is put into a Tarion rolltop camera bag. It has plenty of space for my lenses and camera(s), a laptop if needed, and the rest.”

What about insects is so attractive to photograph?

Peter Swan

“I have a passion for photographing insects and other invertebrates, which emerged shortly after getting my first macro lens in 2015. I love being out in nature, but I didn’t have the patience to sit for hours in a bird hide.

With minibeast photography, you can go out to any park, nature reserve, or even into your garden, and you’ll find something to photograph – even in the middle of winter. Even in a nature-depleted, highly populated country with a cool maritime climate (the UK), you’ll be surprised at just what you can find when you go out looking for it.

Along with butterflies and dragonflies, some of the most interesting species, such as springtails, are only a few millimeters long and are typically overlooked by most people, yet can be brilliantly colorful.”

What’s changed since the beginning?

Peter Swan

“When I first started with macro photography, I was photographing subjects using natural light with a non-stabilized macro lens. To get sharp enough photos, I wasn’t stopping down enough to achieve adequate depth of field, and I was frequently shooting at very high ISO, so the detail wasn’t there.

Upgrading to a stabilized lens helped somewhat, but what really made a difference was when I started to use diffused flash. This is not harmful to the insects while allowing the use of a low ISO and a deeper depth of field to get more of the subject in focus. I initially made my own simple flash diffuser using a transparent folder with white paper glued to it before buying a custom-made one (Cygnustech) after seeing the results other people were getting with theirs.

The next steps for me would be to become more proficient in focus stacking; however, this requires a lot of time and patience (some stacks require 50+ shots) and, ideally, your subject to remain still for a few seconds. My photo of a very accommodating cellar spider in my house involved 15 images stacked using Zerene.”

What places have helped you to better understand photography?

Peter Swan

“While macro photography can be done anywhere, the best places for biodiversity are dedicated nature reserves. However, if you look closely, you can find minibeasts everywhere. For example, now that I know what to look for, I often see ruby-tailed wasps (some of Britain’s prettiest insects) slowly patrolling the walls outside my house and workplace.

I have had a few memorable experiences when photographing some of Britain’s rarer butterfly species – for example, visiting Arnside Knott in Cumbria to photograph Brown Hairstreaks (Thecla betulae), Hickling Broad in Norfolk to photograph old world swallowtails (Papilio machaon), and Fineshades Wood in Northamptonshire to photograph Purple Emperors (Apatura iris).

Sometimes you go somewhere and spot an interesting species immediately, while at other times this happens at the end of the day when you’re just about to pack up and go back home.”

What would help other photographers zoom in on nature’s tiniest of creatures?

Peter Swan

“Generally, the early morning is the best time for photographing insects before they get a chance to fully warm up. If photographing creatures later in the day, be very patient when sneaking up on them, as many species can be extremely skittish!

One of the most important things is to have a clean background. Sometimes I might gently encourage the subject to walk onto an isolated leaf or stem, helping it stand out nicely. Other useful techniques include the use of diagonals. Having lines (e.g., stems) parallel to the edges of the photo is not ideal, aesthetically.

Find something you enjoy photographing, and get out there with your camera to capture it. Or find something that you don’t usually photograph and give that a try, if not just to help move you outside your comfort zone – you never know, you might prefer that particular genre of photography!”

Peter really enjoyed participating in this spotlight article and would love to hear what you think of his photography and to answer any of your questions in the comments below.

You can check out Peter’s other work at flickr.com.

Editor’s note: This article continues a series, ‘What’s in your bag?’, highlighting DPReview community members, their photography and the gear they depend on. Would you like your photography to be featured in a future installment? Tell us a bit about yourself by filling out this form.

We’ve been running this Question of the week series for over a year now, and yet have not covered the most fundamental, and perhaps most important, question yet… what sparked your interest in getting involved in photography?

Compared to many of our veteran community members, I’m still deep into grasping the finer points of taking great shots with a standalone camera, and I’m still intimidated by what I see as more advanced cameras like the Sony a1 II or Canon’s EOS R1.

For today’s question and related to my journey, I feel that joining the DPReview community was the true spark that led me to take my photography seriously. I couldn’t have gotten this far this fast without your insight. Because of our community’s support for each other, I hope new photographers find their spark here, too.

So, with that said…

What sparked your interest in getting involved in photography?

Drop a reply in the comments section below, and if you’ve got a photo to include from your mentioned forum sections, it may be selected for next week’s showcase article on this topic!

The Canon EOS R8 II adds two of the features that many people felt the original model could have benefited from: an autofocus joystick and in-body image stabilization.

However, as well as making it a better camera, these additions, along with inflation, have made it a more expensive camera, putting it in direct competition with Nikon’s Z5II, which is our current pick of sub-$2000 full-frame cameras.

The Nikon has been on the market longer, so its price has softened a bit, but its list price is within $50 of that of the Canon, so it’s likely they’ll end up costing a similar amount. While the original R8 and, in some places, the original Z5 persist at reduced prices, these are some of the least expensive current models for anyone looking to join a full-frame system and are designed to act as the entry point to this part of the market.

Having used both cameras extensively, we thought we’d look at how they compare and which we think is better.

Headline specs

On paper the core specs of the two cameras are very similar: they have the same-sized sensors with comparable pixel counts, both have image stabilization and both include an AF joystick.

Beyond the core specs, it all becomes a little less clear-cut, with the Canon offering some benefits over the Nikon with regards weight, maximum burst speed and the ability to capture Raw at its fastest burst speeds and in its pre-capture mode. But there are probably more ways in which the Z5II is a stronger camera.

By taking a look at the main differences and when they play a role, it might help you decide which would be the better camera for you.

EVF/LCD

Mitchell Clark

The Nikon has a larger, higher resolution viewfinder than the Canon. The EOS R8 II is built around a smaller viewfinder panel, which is why its resolution is limited to 2.36M dots, which is 1024 x 768px. The Nikon has a larger panel, meaning it can offer higher magnification (a larger view) and 3.69M dot resolution, which equates to 1280 x 960px. This is a 25% increase in linear resolution, which is enough to make the view seem less pixelated, even with the greater magnification. The Nikon’s finder also goes brighter, giving a more realistic preview of highlights.

The Nikon’s rear screen is also a touch larger 3.2″ display with 1024 x 680px resolution, vs the Canon’s 3.0″, 900 x 600px display. The size is likely to make more difference than the roughly 14% difference in linear resolution. Both cameras have fully-articulated displays that hinge to the side.

Mechanical shutters

Another difference is that the Nikon has a full mechanical shutter, whereas the Canon has an electronic first curtain (/mechanical second curtain) shutter. This doesn’t make a huge difference for most real-world shooting, but one difference is that the Nikon can shoot at up to 1/8000 sec shutter speeds, whereas the Canon tops-out a stop earlier than that.

The Canon’s fully electronic shutter mode can go higher than this, but with a readout speed of around 1/70 sec, this can’t be used with flash and risks showing rolling shutter distortion with fast movement and banding with flickering lights.

Twin card slots

Richard Butler

The Nikon has twin SD card slots, while the Canon has just one. This isn’t likely to make a huge difference to any but the most risk-averse photographers. Dual card slots can offer a level of dependability that is essential for professional work, but is more a question of your risk comfort level ranged against your willingness to pay for multiple cards, for most day-to-day photography.

Video

Mitchell Clark

Things are less clear-cut when it comes to video. The Z5II can capture Raw video which might, if you’re from a photo background, sound like an immediate win for the Nikon. But, in practice, this generates a lot of data, requires a rather more involved workflow and doesn’t offer the same magnitude of benefit over 10-bit log footage as Raw does over JPEG, in stills.

By contrast, the Canon can record 4K/60, derived from 6K, full-width capture, whereas the Nikon has to crop in to an APS-C region, if you want to shoot footage for slow-mo moments. This makes it harder to maintain a wide angle-of-view and lowers quality on the Nikon. Both cameras shoot 10-bit log, with Canon’s C-Log3 being preferred by many editors.

Battery life

However, battery life is a much more decisive difference between the cameras. The Z5II uses the same 16Wh battery as the Z6 series modes, powering it to a rating of 350 shots per charge if you shoot using the rear screen or 330 if you use the viewfinder. The Canon uses a much smaller 7.5Wh battery, from which it delivers a rated lifespan of 270 and 150 shots per charge, for using the rear screen and viewfinder, respectively.

And, while the numbers that the standard testing offers up aren’t necessarily exactly those you’ll see in the real world, we’d generally expect a camera that measures as 330 shots per charge to last around twice as long as one rated at 150. The video ratings are also a little over twice as high for the Nikon. For anyone looking to use the camera for more than occasional snaps, this difference is likely to be very noticeable.

It’s one of the factors that makes the Nikon appreciably heavier, though, weighing in at 700g (24.7oz), making it 154g (5.4oz) heavier than the Canon.

Lens choice

Mitchell Clark

The final consideration is lens choice. Given all modern ILCs sit somewhere between ‘really quite good’ and ‘excellent,’ the availability of appropriate lenses is just as important as your choice of camera brand.

Both Canon and Nikon have built out fairly extensive lens lineups with a selection of low, mid and high-level lenses, in a good array of sizes and focal lengths. However, both have also tried to restrict access to their mounts to their own lenses plus a handful of lenses they’ve licensed third-parties to make: the majority of which are for APS-C models, but with some of Tamron’s full-frame options available for Nikon. The biggest difference, in this regard, is that unlicensed third party makers are offering increasing numbers of lenses for the Nikon Z-mount, whereas Canon has more effectively controlled the RF ecosystem.

In both instances, we’d recommend checking whether the lenses you think you might want exist at a price you’re willing to pay. And to check reports and reviews, if those lenses are made by third parties, as the autofocus performance in particular can vary significantly even within the same brand.

Summary

There are the hints the Canon has tried to make the EOS R8 II easier to use, with its Advanced Assist mode that is willing to automatically use multi-shot modes, where necessary, and the option of a simplified, results-focused Raw processing interface. However, the Z5II does have a button for directly accessing its Picture Control color modes, whereas the Canon has two distinct color systems, one of which can’t be accessed when shooting Raws, so in some ways the Nikon can be easier to use. The Canon’s menu is perhaps a tiny bit more logically grouped, but both are a little overwhelmed with options and will take a little time to learn.

Overall, the EOS R8 II and Z5II both offer a level of image quality and performance that you couldn’t previously get at this price and will be more than enough camera for a lot of photographers, even if inflation means they’re not quite the obvious bargains that their predecessors were.

Three of the most capable full-frame mirrorless cameras ever made are now selling used for less than many new APS-C bodies. The Sony a7 III, Canon EOS R6 and Nikon Z6 II have each dropped into a used-market price range that puts full-frame image quality, in-body stabilization and mature lens ecosystems within reach of photographers who previously had to settle for a crop-sensor body. If you shoot stills seriously and have been waiting for a sensible entry point into full-frame mirrorless, that moment has arrived.

Why used full-frame makes sense right now

When Sony, Canon and Nikon each released successor bodies — the a7 IV, EOS R6 Mark II and Z6 III — used prices on the previous generation fell sharply. That generational turnover created a tier of cameras that carry full-frame sensors, weather sealing and professional-grade autofocus, but now compete on price with upper-tier APS-C cameras sold new. DPReview’s own reviews awarded each of these three bodies a Gold Award or better at launch, and the sensor performance, dynamic range and low-light capability documented in those reviews have not changed because a newer model exists. For budget-conscious photographers willing to buy used, the value equation has shifted decisively in their favor.

The picks

The cameras on this list share four qualities: image quality that DPR reviews confirmed outperforms most APS-C alternatives, a lens ecosystem deep enough to serve photographers for years, consistent availability at MPB, and feature sets that will not feel obsolete quickly. Bodies that are scarce in used channels, or that require expensive proprietary adapters to access a meaningful lens selection, were set aside.

MPB

Sony Alpha a7 III

• Starts at $634

The Sony a7 III remains the broadest recommendation. Its 24MP back-illuminated full-frame sensor, in-body image stabilization and 693-point phase-detection autofocus system — specs that DPReview called class-leading at the camera’s launch — still hold up against current APS-C competition. Sony’s E-mount is the most mature mirrorless ecosystem available, with native lenses from Sony and third-party options from Sigma, Tamron and others. Photographers who want the widest lens selection at every price point will find more choices here than on any other platform — making the a7 III the pick for shooters who value flexibility above all.

MPB

Canon EOS R6

• Starts at $1,339

The Canon EOS R6 makes the strongest case for sports and wildlife shooters. Its 20MP full-frame sensor is paired with Canon’s Dual Pixel CMOS AF system, which the DPReview Canon EOS R6 review found to be among the most reliable subject-tracking systems tested at the time. The R6 also offers 12 fps mechanical and 20 fps electronic burst shooting. The RF lens ecosystem has grown quickly, and photographers already invested in EF glass will find the EF-EOS R adapter a reliable bridge to the new mount.

Nikon Z6 II

• Starts at $519

The Nikon Z6 II is the pick for photographers who value balanced stills-and-video capability and want access to Nikon’s Z-mount optics, which are widely praised for their optical quality. The Z6 II’s 24MP sensor, dual card slots and 4K video output made it one of the more versatile hybrid bodies in its class. The DPReview Nikon Z6 II review noted its improved buffer depth over the original Z6 and its reliable Eye-detect autofocus. Nikon’s FTZ adapter also allows the full Nikkor F-mount back-catalogue to be used without optical compromise, giving former Nikon DSLR owners an especially smooth transition.

What you give up vs. current-gen bodies

None of these cameras match their successors in every area. The a7 III’s autofocus, while capable, does not reach the subject-recognition sophistication of the a7 IV. The original EOS R6 lacks the 40 fps burst and improved stabilization of the Mark II. The Z6 II’s video feature set is more limited than the Z6 III’s. Where the trade-off is clearly worth accepting: if your shooting is primarily stills-focused, if you do not require the most aggressive burst rates, and if image quality rather than the latest processing features is your priority, the gap between these cameras and their successors is narrow in practice and wide in price. Where it matters more: working videographers and sports photographers who push frame rates and rely on the newest subject-recognition modes will feel the difference.

Availability and pricing on the used market

All three bodies are regularly listed in multiple condition grades on MPB, which grades cameras by cosmetic and functional condition and backs all purchases with a 6-month warranty. Buying from a structured used platform rather than a private seller reduces the risk of receiving a body with undisclosed wear or shutter count issues. Stock turns over frequently for all three models, making them practical targets rather than aspirational ones. Check listings regularly, since condition grades affect price meaningfully and a ‘Good’ grade body in full working order will cost less than an ‘Excellent’ example of the same camera.

For photographers ready to move from APS-C to full-frame, the Sony a7 III, Canon EOS R6 and Nikon Z6 II each represent a documented, tested path to a significant image-quality step up — at prices that, a few years ago, would have been unthinkable for cameras of this capability.

The Canon EOS R8 II is the latest camera to keep size down by adopting an electronic first curtain shutter design. This isn’t the same thing as full electronic shutter and it has very few downsides, so here’s how it works and what those downsides are.

Perhaps an easier way to understand EFCS is to think of it as Mechanical Second Curtain Shutter. The exposure is started electronically but a normal mechanical shutter then comes down to end the exposure, meaning that, unlike full electronic shutter, you can end your exposure very quickly, rather than being limited by readout speed of your sensor.

This means EFCS doesn’t have the significant rolling shutter artifacts (banding under flickering light and distorted moving subjects) that all but the fastest sensors can exhibit. The fast end to the exposure also means it can usually sync with flashes up to the same speed as a fully mechanical focal plane shutter.

In fact, it can have a benefit over full mechanical shutters, in one regard: because there’s no physical shutter snapping open at the start of the exposure, it eliminates a key source of vibration that can cause shutter shock. Some cameras with full mechanical shutters switch across to their EFCS mode within certain shutter ranges for exactly this reason.

This is the reason we’ve seen an increasing number of cameras, particularly the ones where the manufacturer has focused on downsizing and on cost reduction. In most instances, EFCS lets you use a smaller, mechanically simpler mechanism, with very little disadvantage.

The downside

It’s not entirely without downsides, though. At very high shutter speeds, where the period during which the shutter is closing makes up a significant proportion of the exposure, you can experience bokeh truncation: part of the bokeh pattern getting chopped off.

DPReview

This happens because the physical shutter used to end the exposure sits some distance in front of the sensor, so light can creep around the edge of the shutter blades as it closes. But the electronic first curtain (progressively turning the rows of the sensor on to start the exposure) doesn’t have that gap, so the start of the exposure didn’t have that light bleeding around the edge of the ‘shutter,’ giving one side of the bokeh a hard cut-off. This results in out-of-focus regions that aren’t as blurred and may not have such attractive bokeh.

However, this only becomes visible at very high shutter speeds when using lenses with fast enough apertures to significantly blur the background.

The ‘hard-edged’ nature of the electronic initiation of the exposure also means that any banding effect (from the fast flicker of LED advertising displays or high-speed sync flash) can end up being better defined and more distracting than with a fully mechanical shutter, again because light creeping around the gap between physical shutter blades and the sensor surface can soften it somewhat.

For the vast majority of situations though, including flash sync, electronic first curtain (/mechanical second curtain) shutter, is every bit as good as full mechanical shutter.

Meet Stefan Pfeffer

Home base: Manila, the Philippines

I’m always drawn to photographers who treat their camera as a way to explore a scene from a humanistic perspective.

Known in the wider community as stipphoto, Stefan Pfeffer photographs the energy and small human interactions of everyday life, particularly across the Philippines and elsewhere in Asia. Working with a preference for wide-angle lenses and direct, unplanned encounters, Stefan embraces the reactions his presence can bring. In this edition of What’s in your bag?, he discusses his compact Sony a7CR kit while exploring his favorite stops in Europe, Hong Kong and the Philippines.

“I have always been curious about my surroundings and have photographed almost everything I encounter. During the days of film photography, I was somewhat restrained by the limited number of exposures; with digital photography, that restraint has largely disappeared.

My photographs are neither carefully planned nor intended to have particular artistic value. They are simply snapshots of moments in time.”

Our ‘What’s in your bag?’ community spotlight series features readers sharing their favorite gear and photography, including from past DPReview collaborators. See below for what Stefan has to share.

How do you get a good angle from others?

Stefan Pfeffer

“I’m drawn to documentary-style photography, with a particular focus on people and everyday life. Asia, with its crowded markets, densely developed residential areas, and vibrant street life, offers an endlessly rewarding environment for photography.

Whenever possible, I try to insert the camera into a scene rather than simply record what is in front of me. This is why I prefer wide-angle lenses: the wider the lens, the more immersed I feel in the environment.

My choice of focal length also depends on how approachable people are in different places. In Europe, they tend to use a 50mm lens; in Hong Kong, a 35mm lens; and in the Philippines, a 24mm lens. This approach makes it difficult to photograph people discreetly or unnoticed, but I see that as a positive thing. It often provokes a reaction and creates a kind of dialogue between the people I photograph and me. They may reject the photograph, which is perfectly fine, or, as is sometimes the case, give me the dreaded V-sign and pose for the camera.

I never stage my photographs or instruct people on how to pose. I prefer to capture people and situations as they naturally unfold, allowing the interaction between the photographer, the subject, and the environment to shape the image.”

What’s in Stefan’s bag

Stefan Pfeffer

“Gear does matter. A sharp lens and a snappy camera, such as the fantastic but ultimately disposable Sony a7CR, make the difference between capturing a moment and missing it.

Fast autofocus was the liberation from Leica rangefinder focusing, as digital imaging was the liberation from film. However, as objects, a Nikon F3 is infinitely more desirable than a Nikon ZF. Instagram and YouTube reviews of equipment confuse the correlation between gear and achieving a photograph.”

Favorite cameras(s): Hasselblad X1D II and Sony A7CR

“I’ve been through a lot of camera gear over the years. The perfect camera does exist, for me at least. It’s the Contax G2, paired with its wonderful lenses. Today, however, my preferred camera is the Sony a7CR.”

Favorite lens(s):

• Sony Zeiss 55mm F1.8 in Europe
• Sigma I-Series 35mm F2 in Hong Kong
• Sony 24mm F1.4 GM in the Philippines

“My three-lens kit consists of the 24mm GM, Sony 50mm F2.5 G, and Sigma 90mm F2.8, a compact combination that gives me the flexibility to photograph at different distances while keeping the kit relatively light. My choice of lens depends largely on where I’m photographing and how close I can get to my subjects.”

Do accessories matter, or do you just bring the camera?

Stefan Pfeffer

“Accessories absolutely matter. For starters, I like the Crumpler 6 Million Dollar bag. It’s simple and functional. However, for a photo walk, I much prefer inconspicuous shoulder bags that I sourced from flea markets. My latest find is a Converse bag. Equipped with a cheap camera bag insert, these are perfect for a three-lens setup.

Otherwise, a plastic bag for my camera is always part of my kit. My main criticism of Sony cameras is their sensitivity to humidity and rain. The Multi-Interface Shoe is my main source of frustration. The design may make sense on a computer, but on a camera that is used outdoors, it’s infuriating. Sooner or later, all my Sony cameras have displayed the dreaded message: “This accessory is not supported by the device and cannot be used.” Infuriating.

An air blower and a spare battery are also essential. Fortunately, Sony’s battery life is fantastic, so I rarely have to worry about running out of power. If I need anything else, the beauty of roaming any Asian city is that there is always a convenience store or Sari Sari for a refreshment.”

How has your photography changed over the years?

Stefan Pfeffer

“Although I have always loved black-and-white photography, my digital photographs are almost exclusively in color. For me, this is simply because reality is in color. Since my photographs are essentially snapshots of the world as I encounter it, I prefer to preserve that sense of reality rather than reinterpret it.

Digital photography has also greatly improved both the number and quality of images I’m able to capture. Modern autofocus is remarkably capable, allowing me to shoot wide open at short shutter speeds.

What has perhaps changed – or, more accurately, developed over time – is my ability to overcome the hesitation to approach people and ask to photograph them. After doing this for a number of years, I’ve learned that the worst that can happen is being rejected.”

Why is Asia so special for your photography?

Stefan Pfeffer

“I like to wander and discover whatever happens to be around me. In many parts of Asia, the boundaries between public and private space are less clearly defined, making places that might otherwise feel inaccessible surprisingly open. People are generally quick to let me know when I trespass – somewhere, sooner or later.

Twenty-five years ago, what was meant to be a one-month trip turned into a year-and-a-half journey through Asia, with China in particular. It was a very different time to travel. The lack of internet and smartphones created a sense of freedom and spontaneity that is difficult to experience today.

In China in particular, the relative lack of surveillance at the time made it possible to travel extensively with a sense of anonymity. Walking around with a camera was generally met with curiosity rather than suspicion. People would ask where I was from or what I was photographing, but there was usually an openness toward a foreigner simply wandering around with a camera.

That freedom and unpredictability became an important part of how I experienced and photographed Asia.”

How do you plan out capturing a great photo?

Stefan Pfeffer

“My photographs are rarely planned. They are more often a matter of seeing what happens and responding to it.

The Sony a7CR’s excellent autofocus, combined with its high megapixel count, allows me to shoot short bursts of three or four frames at a moderate drive speed. The quality of lenses such as the Sony 24mm GM and Sigma I-Series 35mm also gives me enough resolution to crop heavily and refine the composition later in Capture One.

In a way, going out to photograph has become about collecting the raw material for an image. The final framing and interpretation happen later on the computer. It’s close to the analog process: going out and exposing the negative, then returning home to make the photograph.”

Stefan really enjoyed participating in this spotlight article and would love to hear what you think of his photography and to answer any of your questions in the comments below.

You can check out Stefan’s other work at stefanpfeffer.com.

Editor’s note: This article continues a series, ‘What’s in your bag?’, highlighting DPReview community members, their photography and the gear they depend on. Would you like your photography to be featured in a future installment? Tell us a bit about yourself by filling out this form.

We all have that moment where we pick up a camera, go out to shoot something, and… nothing. You look around, recognize all the places you’ve already taken great photos of and don’t have the energy to drive across town to find something fresh. Instead, you decide to walk back into the house to work on some other non-photography project.

During these times, you miss that spark of creativity and inspiration that keeps you energized to take great photos. You know what it feels like when it’s around. Those are the times when it’s clear as day what to do with your camera. You end up shooting countless fantastic scenes with little effort.

So, how do you rekindle that spark of inspiration? Read on to discover how the DPReview community finds fresh inspiration and gets their creative instincts flowing again.

Dave in Wales: What you don’t do is sell all your gear.

Spid: This is what the nifty fifty was designed for. Strip back to basics. Shoot less, one focal length. Get the mojo back.

TOTodd: Nothing sparks inspiration more than a client beating on your door asking if it’s done yet.

zak99: Stop chasing technical perfection, dig out some old cameras, digital or film, limit my options and carry only one lens. I’m currently using an Olympus 7070 from my digital childhood. It’s challenging, it’s satisfying and it’s cool.

Simple-joy

Maoby: By taking self-portraits (in response to Mathew’s self-portrait lead photo :)).

Jaberg: As a practical solution, take part in the currently running month-long challenge. It’s not important that each (or any) entry be a gem. The important thing is to make a picture – any picture – for each topic. To pick up the camera and engage the photography muscles. You never know when creative inspiration will strike.

AshleyMC: I always have a camera on me and create photographs daily. My “default” subject is flowers, which are not hard to find: in my garden, in the neighborhood church’s garden, or in the city’s botanical gardens and greenhouses. Other than flowers, I usually see “something” in any scene.

Gato Amarillo: If I waited for inspiration, I’d hardly get anything done – in photography or in any other part of life. It’s been said many ways by many people: “Amateurs wait for inspiration; real artists just get to work.”

AshleyMC

Zeee: I do what works best. I let GAS get the better of me.

milo006: I have been doing this since I was 12 years old, now I am 81. I think every day can be inspirational, as far as life is concerned. When I was a young man, my inspiration came from my work, military service and other experiences. After I married and had children, they became the inspiration.

I do admit that I have had long periods when I was not active as a photographer, due to other hobbies that took up a lot of my time. However, now that I am older, retired and have the time, I find it easy to be inspired on a daily basis.

KPM2: Photography is often a matter of being in the right place at the right time. When you’ve been doing it for a long time, you’ve naturally found yourself in that sweet spot often enough – and you might just lose a bit of your enthusiasm as a result, and more so, when the weather is not optimal.

What always works for me in those moments is experimenting with flash, outside or inside at home, because it breaks the rule of being in the right place at the right time. Because the time doesn’t matter.

There are many other stories from our community. They all deserve praise and to be shared, so be sure to visit the forum discussion and share your own if you like. Thanks to everyone who took the time to share unique ways you get out of an inspiration rut.

Each year, Apple’s iPhone launch event devotes considerable time to its newest flagship iPhone Pro model, which features the company’s most advanced cameras. For photography and video enthusiasts who want Apple’s latest imaging technology, the iPhone Pro is the clear choice.

And every year, Apple tries to convince us that its cameras are better than ever, and that this is the year to upgrade to make your photos more magical than ever before.

Apple

But is it worth it? Most people upgrade their smartphones only every few years, and it can be hard to know when an upgrade will truly make a difference to your photos. We’re here to help sort the noise from the facts. In this photography-focused comparison, we’ll examine every iPhone Pro model from the last six years – back to 2020’s iPhone 12 Pro – to help you decide if an upgrade makes sense.

Before we dive into older models, let’s review what’s new with the iPhone 18 Pro.

Or, you can jump directly to a comparison between the iPhone 18 Pro series and your current model:

• iPhone 17 Pro and Pro Max
• iPhone 16 Pro and Pro Max
• iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max
• iPhone 14 Pro and Pro Max
• iPhone 13 Pro and Pro Max
• iPhone 12 Pro and Pro Max

iPhone 18 Pro and Pro Max: What’s new

Apple

Like its predecessors, the iPhone 18 Pro and Pro Max have main, ultrawide and telephoto cameras. All three use 48MP sensors that Apple calls “Fusion” sensors, which are essentially a Quad Bayer design that combines binned and full-resolution pixel data. This year’s headline feature is something we’ve never seen on an iPhone before: a mechanical variable aperture on the main camera.

The aperture has four settings (F1.48, F1.8, F2.8 and F4), spanning just under three stops. That’s roughly F5 to F14 in full-frame terms, so background blur won’t change dramatically, but you do get real control over depth of field. At F1.48, the lens is also about half a stop brighter than the 17 Pro’s F1.78 lens, which accounts for most of Apple’s claimed low-light gain. The sensor is new, but it’s the same size.

For video, stopping down allows slower shutter speeds, getting you closer to a 180-degree shutter in shade or overcast light. In bright sun, though, you’ll still need about a four- to five-stop ND filter at F4 to shoot 24p at 1/50 sec.

Apple

Apple has also added Pro controls in the built-in Camera app, allowing you to manually set aperture, shutter speed and white balance, complete with a live histogram.

The rest of the camera hardware carries over from the 17 Pro, including the ultrawide, the 4x (100mm equiv.) telephoto and the 18MP Center Stage front camera. Software additions include Smart focus tracking, texture and grain controls in Photographic Styles, 4K/60p Cinematic mode, and the ability to apply cinematic effects to video after capture.

Finally, the 18 Pro introduces Apple Reference Image, an opt-in authenticity feature. In Reference mode, the sensor captures signed data that Apple’s Private Cloud Compute servers turn into an unalterable reference image. It appears alongside the main photo so you can check whether the photo has been edited. It’s Apple’s own alternative to the C2PA Content Credentials that Google has adopted.

The big picture

Before diving into individual comparisons, let’s look at how the iPhone Pro’s camera system has evolved. At a high level, this is what to look for:

• Sensor size and aperture: All other factors being equal, a larger sensor captures more light, resulting in higher-quality photos, especially in low light. A variable aperture (the 18 Pro models) provides additional control over how much light hits the sensor.
• Resolution: More megapixels mean higher-resolution images and the ability to maintain resolution with ‘virtual’ zoom lenses.
• Focal lengths: While the main and ultrawide cameras have been pretty consistent, telephoto cameras have had more varied configurations.
• Video features: Know which features you need – and which ones you don’t – when deciding whether to upgrade.

In the table below, green boxes represent significant upgrades from previous models.

Editor’s note: All focal lengths in this article are full-frame equivalents.

*All focal lengths are full-frame equivalents

Before the 18 Pro added a variable aperture, the main camera’s last notable upgrades came with the 13 Pro and 14 Pro, and it was largely unchanged from the 14 Pro through the 17 Pro.

The ultrawide camera was upgraded on the 13 Pro and 14 Pro, and again on the iPhone 16 Pro, which also gained a 48MP sensor.

The telephoto camera has seen more variability, with focal lengths between 52mm (2x) and 120mm (5x), with the most significant upgrade being the iPhone 17 Pro, which gained a 48MP sensor that’s substantially larger than in previous models.

Apple has continued to add video features with each generation. All models in the table can also capture ProRAW photos.

If you have an iPhone 17 Pro or Pro Max

Apple

For iPhone 17 Pro owners, the year-over-year upgrade hinges almost entirely on whether you want variable aperture control on the main camera.

The iPhone 17 Pro has the same 48MP ultrawide and telephoto cameras and the same 18MP Center Stage front camera. The 18 Pro’s main sensor is new, but it’s the same size, and we would expect image quality to be broadly the same at similar apertures.

The variable aperture on the main camera is the key difference. F1.48 is about half a stop brighter than the 17 Pro’s F1.78 lens, which could be important if you frequently shoot in low light. At the other end, stopping down to F4 provides more depth of field for close subjects and group shots, and will let you use slower shutter speeds for video in shade or overcast light.

The 18 Pro also adds built-in Pro controls to Apple’s Camera app, Smart focus tracking, texture and grain controls in Photographic Styles, and Apple Reference Image. For video, you can now apply cinematic effects after capture. If those features or the variable aperture don’t matter to you, it’s hard to recommend the upgrade, and third-party apps can already give the 17 Pro manual shutter speed and white balance control.

If you have an iPhone 16 Pro or Pro Max

Apple

For iPhone 16 Pro or Pro Max owners, the upgrade will not only net you the variable aperture main camera, but a much-improved telephoto camera as well.

The iPhone 16 Pro has a main camera similar to the 18 Pro’s (minus the variable aperture) and the same ultrawide camera.

However, there’s a big difference in telephoto cameras. The iPhone 18 Pro has a 48MP telephoto sensor that’s over 50% larger than the one in the 16 Pro. With the same F2.8 aperture, that works out to about 2/3 stop more light. The telephoto focal length has also changed, decreasing from 120mm (5x) on the 16 Pro to 100mm (4x) on the 18 Pro.

The 4x zoom on the 18 Pro may sound like a downgrade, but a common complaint on the iPhone 16 Pro was the large gap between its main and telephoto cameras. This forced mid-range zoom shots to rely heavily on computationally-enhanced crops from the main sensor. The 18 Pro’s 4x telephoto narrows that gap, allowing the phone to switch to the dedicated telephoto lens and its full sensor area sooner.

Additionally, the iPhone 16 Pro and all older models used Apple’s previous 4:3 front-facing selfie camera. The newer Center Stage camera could be a reason to upgrade if you take many selfies or shoot video on the move.

New video features include ProRes RAW and Genlock (aimed at advanced videographers), Apple Log 2, 4K/60p Cinematic mode and the ability to apply cinematic effects after shooting. Unless you specifically need them, these features alone don’t justify an upgrade.

If you have an iPhone 15 Pro or Pro Max

Apple

For iPhone 15 Pro or Pro Max users, the camera differences start to stack up more dramatically.

The main camera on the 15 Pro uses the same sensor size as the 18 Pro, but with a fixed F1.78 lens, so the 18 Pro gains about half a stop at F1.48, plus the flexibility of a variable aperture. Apple has also introduced faster-readout versions of this sensor since the 15 Pro, enabling “zero shutter lag” even when shooting Raw.

The telephoto cameras are more complicated. The iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max use different modules, with 77mm (3x) and 120mm (5x) lenses, respectively. This means upgrading to the 18 Pro’s 100mm (4x) telephoto could result in either more or less reach than you’re used to. In either case, the upgrade will get you the 18 Pro’s 48MP sensor, which is over 50% larger than the 15 Pro Max’s and almost double the size of the 15 Pro’s.

Image stabilization is another factor to consider. The iPhone 15 Pro Max’s telephoto module uses sensor-shift image stabilization. In contrast, the smaller iPhone 15 Pro’s telephoto uses Apple’s older, less effective optical image stabilization system. Sensor-shift stabilization didn’t come to the smaller iPhone Pro’s telephoto module until the iPhone 16 series, so iPhone 15 Pro users will experience improved telephoto stabilization after upgrading.

Dale Baskin

Ultrawide and macro photographers may be drawn to the iPhone 18 Pro’s 48MP ultrawide camera. Like Apple’s other 48MP sensors, it’s a Quad Bayer design, so the resolution gain isn’t as large as the numbers suggest. Still, it captures more detail and provides more latitude for cropping macro shots. The sensor size remains unchanged, however, so don’t expect low-light improvements.

The 18 Pro includes other features not on the 15 Pro, such as the Camera Control button and the latest generation of Photographic Styles, which lets you change the look after a photo is taken. Video upgrades include 4K/120p capture (up from 4K/60p) for more dramatic slow-motion, Apple Log 2, after-capture cinematic effects, and support for ProRes RAW and Genlock.

If you have an iPhone 14 Pro or Pro Max

Apple

The camera modules in the iPhone 14 Pro and Pro Max are broadly similar to those in the 15 Pro, except for the 15 Pro Max’s 5x telephoto. As a result, much of the same upgrade logic applies.

The iPhone 14 Pro was the first model with the 48MP, Type 1/1.28 main sensor format Apple still uses, though the 18 Pro will benefit from faster readout speeds. Additionally, the 14 Pro defaults to 12MP photos binned from its 48MP sensor, compared to the 24MP default on more recent models. (Full 48MP resolution is still available via a settings change, however.)

Upgrading to the 18 Pro will get you newer 48MP sensors on the ultrawide and telephoto modules. The telephoto sensor is also nearly twice the size of the 14 Pro’s, which, with the same F2.8 aperture, works out to almost a full stop more light.

Neither iPhone 14 Pro model includes sensor-shift image stabilization on the telephoto camera, relying instead on the older, less effective optical image stabilization system. Upgrading to the 18 Pro will provide superior sensor-shift stabilization on the telephoto camera, where it’s needed most.

Newer iPhones like the 18 Pro also feature lens coatings not found on the 14 Pro, which can reduce lens flare when shooting into bright light. (Though models with updated coatings still have the green flare balls that have almost become a calling card of iPhone photos.) Newer models can also capture 3D spatial images, a feature the iPhone 14 Pro lacks.

Dale Baskin

Video capabilities may be the most compelling reason to upgrade. The iPhone 14 Pro captures ProRes video, but not the ProRes Log format desired by videographers for its color grading flexibility. Furthermore, its ProRes recording tops out at 4K/30p (1080/30p on 128GB models), restricting slow-motion options.

The 14 Pro was also the last model with a Lightning connector. Newer models use the more universal USB-C, which offers data transfer speeds up to 10Gbit per second – 20 times faster than the Lightning port’s USB 2.0 speeds.

If you primarily use the main camera, upgrading to the 18 Pro may not return huge dividends, unless the variable aperture is important to you. However, for frequent users of the ultrawide and telephoto cameras, or for videographers who want Log video, the upgrade becomes a compelling, no-brainer decision.

If you have an iPhone 13 Pro or Pro Max

Apple

With iPhone models this old, the differences in technology become more stark, and for iPhone 13 Pro or Pro Max owners, upgrading to the 18 Pro will improve the camera experience in nearly every way.

The iPhone 13 Pro was the last generation to use a smaller 12MP main camera sensor before Apple switched to the 48MP sensor that became its standard. The 18 Pro’s sensor is 63% larger than the one in the 13 Pro, and with roughly equivalent maximum apertures (F1.48 vs F1.5), it can capture about 3/4 stop more light, giving it a big leg up in image quality. The 13 Pro also lacks the benefits of the 48MP sensor, which uses pixel binning for extra detail and enables the ‘2x’ virtual lens option found on newer models.

The situation is similar for the ultrawide camera. Its 12MP sensor is roughly half the size of the 18 Pro’s. While its F1.8 aperture is faster than the 18 Pro’s F2.2, the 13 Pro’s ultrawide is still about a third of a stop behind in overall light-gathering and lacks the benefits of the 48MP sensor.

The telephoto camera is where you’ll see the most dramatic difference. The iPhone 18 Pro’s telephoto sensor is nearly twice as large as the 13 Pro’s, and with the same F2.8 aperture, it captures almost a full stop more light. The 18 Pro also uses more effective sensor-shift stabilization on its telephoto module, compared to the older optical stabilization on the 13 Pro models.

As with the 14 Pro, video features could be a deciding factor, especially if you want ProRes Log for color grading latitude. With all three of the 13 Pro’s cameras still at 12MP, lower light-gathering capacity, and a shorter video feature list, this is an easy upgrade to recommend.

If you have an iPhone 12 Pro or Pro Max

Apple

Six years feels like an eternity in technology, and the cameras on the iPhone 12 Pro and Pro Max are showing their age.

The main camera sensor on the iPhone 18 Pro is almost three times larger than the one in the iPhone 12 Pro, and its lens is also slightly faster (F1.48 vs F1.6). Combined, that gives the 18 Pro’s main camera about a 1.8-stop light-gathering advantage, or roughly 3.5 times more light. That’s a dramatic difference, and will be noticeable in photos.

The iPhone 12 Pro Max stays a little closer to the 18 Pro, thanks to its slightly larger sensor, but it still falls 1.25 stops behind, meaning the 18 Pro gathers almost 2.4 times as much light. Not as much, but still a big difference.

Similarly, the 18 Pro’s ultrawide sensor is almost twice as large as the 12 Pro’s, which also has a slower F2.4 aperture. The net result is that the 18 Pro’s ultrawide captures about 1.2 stops more light.

The telephoto comparison is more nuanced. The 12 Pro models have smaller telephoto sensors, but their faster apertures let them roughly match the 18 Pro’s telephoto in total light-gathering. However, their 2x (52mm) and 2.5x (65mm) lenses offer far less reach than the 18 Pro’s 4x (100mm) telephoto.

The 18 Pro’s main camera can also stand in for the 12 Pro’s telephoto: a 2x (48mm) crop still delivers 12MP while capturing about 1.4 stops more light. Matching the 12 Pro Max’s 65mm lens requires a tighter crop that yields only about 6.5MP, though it still gathers nearly a stop more light.

Apple

Image stabilization is another key difference. The iPhone 12 Pro Max was the first to introduce sensor-shift stabilization on its main camera, but the smaller 12 Pro used older, less effective optical stabilization. Upgrading from the smaller 12 Pro will provide a noticeable improvement, as all Pro models since the 13 series have featured sensor-shift on their main cameras.

The 12 Pro models also show their age in video. While they capture Dolby Vision HDR and 4K/60p, they lack all the other video features Apple has introduced in the last six years.

If improving photo quality is your goal, this upgrade makes absolute sense. With 12MP sensors across the board, less light-gathering capability, an older imaging pipeline and far less telephoto reach, you’ll see an across-the-board improvement in image quality.

Conclusion

Apple’s slick presentations make it easy to feel like you need the newest iPhone cameras, and I give Apple credit for being very good at that. The reality, however, is that most annual updates are incremental. Major improvements are the exception, not the rule.

Also, when considering an upgrade, keep in mind that you may not need to buy Apple’s newest iPhone Pro, depending on the features you need or want. If an older model meets your requirements, you might save a chunk of change by buying a recent used phone, or even a refurbished model from Apple that’s newer than your current one and still offers the features you want.

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Sony’s new FE 400mm F4.5 GM OSS and FE 600mm F6.3 GM OSS are built around a simple premise: bring G Master optics and autofocus to wildlife and sports shooters who don’t want to carry a massive lens all day. At $2,700 and $3,700, they also cost a fraction of Sony’s existing 400mm F2.8 and 600mm F4 primes, which run around $12,000 and $13,000.

Both weigh under a kilogram — 994g and 995g (both 2.2 lbs) respectively, excluding the tripod foot — and share the same 108mm barrel diameter. They’re so close in size and feel that it’s easy to pick up one thinking you’ve grabbed the other. Sony claims both are the lightest super-telephoto primes in their class, and the numbers bear that out.

Dale Baskin

Sony provided both lenses to us ahead of the announcement, and we’ve been using them for a couple of weeks. In this article, we’ll walk you through the key areas of their designs.

Optics

Dale Baskin

Optically, the lenses are very similar. The 400mm comprises 22 elements in 16 groups, and the 600mm uses 24 elements in 17 groups. Both share the same core glass: three Super ED elements and one ED element. According to Sony, the shared Super ED elements are what keep chromatic aberration in check across both focal lengths.

In fact, the optical designs are so similar – the 600mm adds two elements and substitutes a third – that it can almost be thought of as a 400mm lens with a built-in teleconverter. The minimum focus distance is identical at 2.5m, but the aperture isn’t quite proportional: a true 1.5x converter would make F4.5 become F6.75, whereas the 600mm manages to achieve F6.3, so it’s close to the idea without being a literal case of it.

Both lenses feature a single front lens element design, rather than a multi-element front group, which Sony credits for pushing the center of gravity back toward the camera body for better balance, and both include an 11-blade circular aperture, which it claims will help render more natural bokeh (check out our sample galleries below for real-world examples).

Dale Baskin

The two lenses also work with Sony’s SEL14TC 1.4x and SEL20TC 2.0x teleconverters. The 400mm extends to 560mm F6.3 or 800mm F9; the 600mm goes to 840mm F9 or 1200mm F13. The 600mm’s maximum magnification of 0.25x also nudges ahead of the 400mm’s 0.18x, despite both sharing a 2.5m (8.2 ft) minimum focus distance.

Autofocus

Dale Baskin

Each lens uses two XD (extreme dynamic) linear motors, one driving each focus group. Sony claims both can maintain focus tracking at up to 120 fps on the a9 III and support subject tracking during 4K 120p video recording.

We used the lenses with a Sony a7 V body, so we weren’t able to put the 120 fps tracking to the test, but the camera maintained tracking at its maximum 30 fps burst rate.

Dale Baskin

Autofocus is quick and snappy. The only moment it felt sluggish was when switching from a subject very close up to one very far away, which isn’t unusual for a super-telephoto, and exactly the scenario the focus limiter is designed for – we’ll get to that in a moment.

Sony’s subject detection worked well with both lenses. Whether tracking a bird or a large mammal, the system tracked subjects like glue, and only in rare cases would one of the lenses fall behind in maintaining focus.

On-lens controls

Dale Baskin

Both lenses include an AF/MF switch, a full-time DMF (direct manual focus) ON/OFF switch, a focus range limiter with two settings (full range and ∞–7m), an OSS ON/OFF switch and an OSS mode switch.

The lenses support three stabilization modes: Mode 1 for normal camera shake, Mode 2 for panning, and Mode 3, which Sony says minimizes framing disturbance for fast or irregularly moving subjects. I confess that I didn’t think about what OSS mode the lenses were in when shooting subjects like birds, leaving them in Mode 1, which seemed to work fine, though it’s possible a more experienced bird photographer would notice the difference.

The limiter’s ∞–7m setting keeps the AF system from hunting through closer distances; it proved particularly useful when photographing an animal through grass or foliage between me and the subject, ignoring close-in distractions so the AF system could lock on to what I actually intended.

Dale Baskin

Four focus hold buttons are distributed around the barrel on both lenses, and all are customizable. A function ring sits just behind them and can be assigned a range of camera settings.

The manual focus ring is nice and deep, giving plenty of surface to grip and turn. Both lenses support full-time DMF, so there’s no mode-switching required to take over focusing mid-shot. In fact, I ran into several shooting situations where a quick twist of the focus ring to bring a partly obscured subject into focus was the fastest way to get the camera’s subject detection system to lock onto a subject, like a bird, which it then began tracking.

Design and build

Dale Baskin

Both lenses are effectively the same size, sharing a 108mm barrel diameter and a 95mm front filter thread. Where they differ by a small amount is in length: the 400mm measures 242mm; the 600mm is 263mm — a difference of just 21mm.

Sony claims dust and moisture resistance through sealed seams, silicone rubber gaskets around buttons and switches, a sealed lens mount ring and a fluorine-coated front element. In my own use, the 400mm held up to one very wet day of shooting with steady rain for about 3 hours. The lens was visibly wet on the outside and showed no signs of water reaching the interior. It wasn’t a controlled test, but that anecdotal experience lends credence to Sony’s claims.

Dale Baskin

The tripod foot is removable on both, using a twist-lock mechanism that makes attaching or removing it quick and easy. A soft carrying case is included with each lens, and it’s one thing that felt a little bit wanting; it feels like a one-size-fits-all case designed to accommodate larger lenses, leaving a fair amount of room for the lenses to move around inside.

The one thing that really stands out when using both lenses is how little weight sits toward the front. The balance point falls well back toward the camera, which makes handholding for extended periods more comfortable than the physical size might suggest.

Lightest in class

Dale Baskin

Sony claims both lenses are the lightest super-telephoto primes in their class. The natural comparison is Nikon’s Z 400mm F4.5 VR S and Z 600mm F6.3 VR S, which tip the scales at 1160g (2.6 lbs) and 1390g (3.1 lbs), respectively, both excluding the tripod collar. That makes the Sony 400mm around 14% lighter than its Nikon counterpart and the 600mm roughly 28% lighter, which is a meaningful gap at the 600mm end.

Nikon’s lenses have been well received, so it’s easy to see why Sony would want equivalents in its own lineup. But Sony isn’t competing only on weight: Nikon’s 400mm F4.5 sells for around $3,500 while its 600mm F6.3 sells for $5,200, so Sony is undercutting Nikon on price as well. For photographers already invested in Nikon, that’s unlikely to justify a system change once bodies, accessories and the other complications of switching are accounted for, but for Sony shooters, or anyone who hasn’t fully committed to a system, the options look very different than they did a week ago.

Compared to Sony’s faster 400mm and 600mm primes

Sony already makes faster primes at both focal lengths: the FE 400mm F2.8 GM OSS and the FE 600mm F4 GM OSS, which offer roughly a 1.3-stop aperture advantage over the new models, and retail for much higher prices, around $12,000 and $13,000, respectively.

The weight savings of the new lenses — not to mention the cost — are substantial in both cases. They represent a trade-off: faster aperture vs. a lightweight, more mobile design. Those who need to capture photos in any setting with fast shutter speeds, like indoor sports (think: gymnastics), have a real reason to favor Sony’s F2.8 and F4 primes. But if you can trade one and a third stops for a lens that comes in under a kilogram and fits in your daypack, the new 400mm and 600mm GM lenses make a clear case.

Sample galleries

We expect one of the most common applications for both new lenses to be wildlife photography, so we’ve primarily built our sample galleries around this use case. Most of the photos you see in these galleries were shot at Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge in Montana, the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes Bison Range in Montana, and at the Oregon Zoo.

Please do not reproduce any of these images on a website or any newsletter/magazine without prior permission (see our copyright page). We make the originals available for private users to download to their own machines for personal examination or printing; we do so in good faith, so please don’t abuse it. 

It’s increasingly likely that you’ll have heard the term LOFIC, and some of the excitement around the capability it brings. We spoke to Professor Eric Fossum, inventor of the modern CMOS image sensor, who turns out to have some involvement in the early development of the concept, to explain how it works and what it could mean for cameras in future.

LOFIC stands for Lateral OverFlow Integration Capacitor and is a different way of designing pixel circuitry that allows them to capture more light. Conceptually, it stems from a similar idea to the dual conversion gain sensors we’ve seen over the past 12 years, but the benefits it promises appear even greater.

A drip-fed explanation

Fossum, now a Professor at Dartmouth College, uses the metaphor that capturing light is like collecting rainwater in a series of containers or buckets.

We’re going to slightly complicate the metaphor to encompass the concept of “conversion gain,” which is the relationship between the number of photoelectrons coming from the light-sensitive photodiode in each pixel and the size of the electrical voltage signal that’s then read out (measured in Volts per electron). 

In CMOS sensors, photoelectrons captured in a small bucket (smaller capacitance) give a proportionally bigger signal when read out than the same number would, if captured in a larger bucket (larger capacitance).

Abby Ferguson

So a small bucket is well suited to low light (fewer photoelectrons) but you need a much larger one for capturing a lot of light, so that you don’t overfill the bucket.

In a LOFIC sensor, instead of one, we have both a small and a large bucket. The charge from the photodiode starts to collect in the small bucket, but if it exceeds its capacity, it overflows into the second, larger bucket. (Fossum called this “cascaded integration” in an early patent)

When it comes to readout, we measure the small bucket first. Because the charge was captured in a small bucket (with high conversion gain) we get a large signal that overwhelms any other noise that might get added later in the process. This gives us nice clean shadows and low-light images.

In a LOFIC sensor, we can then connect the two buckets together, combining their capacity (so, lower conversion gain) and adding in any overflowed charge. We then read out this combined signal. If we didn’t capture very much light, we can just use the first readout result. But if the small bucket was full, we can then use the second, combined readout, instead, giving us much more capacity for highlights.

Unlike the dual conversion gain system, Fossum points to the key benefit: “you don’t have to choose in advance.” And, as he points out, there’s no reason this system has to be limited to two buckets.

Why it matters

In practice, this means sensors that can tolerate a lot more light. And its implementation in relatively small, high-resolution sensors, suggests that space constraints aren’t a problem, at least not once you can use stacked sensor fabrication.

In the Osmo 4P we’ve seen DJI claim 17 stops of DR, which is an extraordinary number for a Type 1 sensor. This puts its DR on a par with much larger sensors (though doesn’t mean its image quality will match them). In its implementation, you can see how the additional dynamic range can be used.

The 4P’s camera that uses LOFIC technology is the only one that needs to use the new D-Log2 profile: a profile designed to accommodate more dynamic range. Interestingly, the base ISO of D-Log2 (the setting at which it captures maximum DR) appears to be 1600, suggesting that it’s being exposed to capture two additional stops of highlights compared with the ISO 400 base sensitivity of D-Log profile used for the conventional sensors.

However, the D-Log2 mode also lets you expose this same sensor state all the way down to ISO 100: clipping those additional highlights but using more exposure to capture the remaining tones, and thus boosting tonal quality. 

This gives us an idea of what LOFIC could bring to dedicated cameras: a choice of greater highlight capture or higher quality captures with the same highlight cutoff point as existing sensors.

After nearly a decade of sensors getting faster but not really offering improved image quality, LOFIC technology might be the step forward we’ve been waiting for.

Interestingly, Fossum – who is responsible for inventing the active pixel CMOS image sensor that virtually all modern cameras are based on – invented an early version of this concept, but the successors to the company he’d worked for instead concentrated their efforts on the simpler dual conversion gain system. A team at Tohoku University in Sendai, Japan, independently developed LOFIC as we’re now seeing it, citing Fossum’s Micron patent in their LOFIC patent, but proposing a more modern implementation.

It’s difficult to believe that 9/11 happened 25 years ago this week. It’s equally difficult to think that day helped shape the photographer I became. Both are true, and as the anniversary news coverage unfolds while I write this, I’ve found myself reflecting on those 25 years.

This article isn’t about what happened that day – there’s nothing I can tell you that you don’t already know – but suffice it to say that it was a tough day to be an American, and an even tougher day to be a New Yorker.

When you’re in the middle of an event like that, it’s easy to feel helpless, and it doesn’t take long for that to evolve into a need to do something, to regain some control over the situation in whatever way you can. I think that’s part of why first responders drove fire trucks from across the US and Canada to help; New York needed them, but I believe it also answered a need to do something.

Copyright Dale Baskin

For me, that something was photography.

I wasn’t a working photographer then. I had never even sold a photo. I was just the guy who always carried a camera. I’d always aspired to do something meaningful with photography, but hadn’t figured out how. Sure, I could take good photos, but that was about the extent of it.

In the days that followed, we were exposed to a lot of photos. It was overwhelming. But it didn’t take long to realize I wasn’t overwhelmed by photos; I was overwhelmed by photos of destruction. I needed to find something else.

And so I set off into the streets of New York with my camera and several rolls of film in search of something hopeful, and it didn’t take long to find it. Everywhere I looked, I saw American flags. And wherever I saw a flag, I saw people expressing hope.

Copyright Dale Baskin

We Americans have a complicated relationship with our flag, but in September of 2001, it was the one thing none of us needed to argue about. It was a symbol that we were in this together, and that we’d dig our way out together.

I latched onto that, and for the next several days I made it my mission to photograph flags in New York City. In the process, I found my voice as a photographer, though I wouldn’t realize it until later.

What I took from that experience is that photography isn’t just about taking pictures, it’s about telling a story. And at times, not the obvious one. I was surrounded by people using cameras to document devastation; I wanted to document for history that there was another story to be told.

I’m not naive enough to think I was the only person in New York who figured this out. But it was a lightbulb moment for me. The kind of thing you can read in a book or hear from a more experienced photographer, but still not understand until you’ve lived it.

Copyright Dale Baskin

Fast forward a few years, after I’d relocated to the West Coast. I happened to mention this collection of photos to an acquaintance, along with the fact that no one but me had ever seen them. Intrigued, he invited me to share my story and my photos with a local civic group.

The next thing I knew, I was getting invited to speak to all kinds of groups. It was the story of an event still visceral in people’s memories – but not the story they were used to hearing. I distinctly remember one man who had been living in New York at the time telling me that while he recognized many of the places in my photos, my photos told a story he’d never seen before.

Talks became exhibits, and exhibits became a book, coauthored by someone I met at one of those talks. Flags Across America grew well beyond our original vision and includes works from many other people, but it still has a section dedicated to my flag photos from New York.

Copyright Dale Baskin

What started as a project to cope with feeling helpless eventually reached more people than I can count, and taught me to appreciate the power of storytelling through photos.

To this day, I have hundreds of photos from that project, shot on slide film, that I’ve never taken the time to scan. I don’t even remember what’s in most of them. But I know I should do something with them, because history matters.

A few years ago, I wrote an article called “What is your digital shoebox?” and asked readers what would happen to their photos when they were gone. I’ve thought about that a lot in the past couple of days, and about the fact that photos taken contemporaneously with important historical events often have real value to future historians. My collection needs to find a home. If you have suggestions, let me know.

25 years is a significant slice of a life, and this anniversary makes me feel a little older today than I did yesterday. But I’d like to think I learned something important from the experience, and that I’ve touched a few people positively along the way with my photography.

Meet James Fawcette

Home base: Los Altos Hills, CA USA

For this spotlight series, we sometimes get a variety of photos from an individual to share with you, and then there are also specialist photographers like James Fawcette, known as JimLosAltos in the forums. James has spent decades since junior high school covering sports games. He started with the NBA (basketball) using a Kodak Tri-X, and is now aiming a Nikon Z9 at professional tennis events.

“When camera companies use the term ‘prosumer’, I suppose that’s what I am. I’m an amateur photographer who extends my enjoyment of tennis by capturing photos of pro tennis players. And I’ve been able to sell enough of these to more than pay for generations of my camera equipment.”

Our ‘What’s in your bag?’ community spotlight series features readers sharing their favorite gear and photography, including from past DPReview collaborators. See below for what James has to share.

What got you into photographing sports?

James Fawcette

“Since the 1960s, as a junior high school student, I sold my first photos of the Boston Celtics and Killington, Vermont ski resort to the local newspaper, the Rutland Daily Herald. I first worked in the Herald’s darkroom, where I learned to develop negatives “by observation.” I had to learn how to “push” the Tri-X from 400 to – who knows. There were no numbers to guide us, so we had to do it by eye. We had pushed the boundaries of that era’s film to its limits.

I managed to get more time behind the camera after the Herald published an on-court shot I took of Wilt Chamberlain. Then I got assignments, first to shoot Killington when it was sub-zero and the NYC tourists were getting frostbite, when my lens literally froze. I couldn’t turn the focus ring. Then I turned an assignment on a new shopping mall into something publishable by getting a private plane ride. I asked the pilot to help me “shoot straight down”. So, he did a wingover, and I was looking literally straight down. Nearly threw up right then and there.”

What’s in James’s bag

James Fawcette

Favorite cameras(s): Nikon Z9 & Nikon Z7

Favorite lens(s):

• Nikkor Z 14-24mm F2.8 S
• Nikkor 24-140mm F4 S
• Nikkor 105mm F1.4 F1.4E ED
• Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II
• Nikkor Z 400mm F4.5 VR S
• Viltrox AF 85mm F2.0 Evo

“When I first started, I used what I’m pretty sure were Herald’s Honeywell Pentax reflex cameras that had a long lens of 100m or 135mm, I think. When I had more time for photography years later, I started using lower-end Nikon film equipment, then progressed from the D810 to the D850, and finally to the Z7 and Z9.

Most of my pro tennis shots have been taken by rentals from the likes of old Borrow Lenses to Lensrental, because I do events sporadically, and the physical location varies so widely. My go-to lens for many of my most successful shots after moving to the Z-mount was still an F-mount lens: the 500mm PF on an FTZ converter with a Nikon Z7, then my Z9. It’s remarkably sharp, compact enough to fit in a transparent NFL bag and quick focusing.”

What’s your favorite bag and accessories?

Must-have accessories: “Tile trackers (for theft prevention and tracking) and rubber lens hoods from Kurvd. And of course, the more expected items like backup storage, batteries and a MagSafe Tripod for the phone.”

Favorite bag(s): “I’m totally not satisfied here. This is an endless quest. Frankly, I have a Peak bag I ‘bought’ from that company’s first Kickstarter program. Loved it at first, then the knife-edge shoulder strap, combined with having to spend so much time reconfiguring it every time I changed lenses, turned me off.

Being plenty frustrated with specific camera bags, I now use a regular Tumi or Oakley, which is just a bag with no dividers. I place foam dividers around whatever combination of equipment I put in there.

What’s probably my most unique setup? That’s tough to decide, but freezing on a Killington chairlift in sub-zero temperatures or on my nose looking down from an airplane, I think, qualifies.”

What do you like to shoot?

James Fawcette

“My main focus is professional tennis. I’ve captured images of players from Roger Federer to Jannik Sinner and from Serena Williams to Coco Gauff, which have appeared in all sorts of media. Since I like tennis, my focus is more on playing tennis than on reaction shots, which bore me (sorry). I attempt to capture the energy, the technique, the athleticism of these great players. That passion evolved into photo-illustration.

Sometimes I have media credentials and shoot from the edge of the court. Other times, I shoot as a ticket-buying fan (something that is becoming near impossible, as another subject of your spotlight series stated in his article. I find that very sad and short-sighted.)”

How do you photograph constantly moving objects, such as sports players?

James Fawcette

“It’s kind of impossible to keep up with the quick movements of professional athletes, so knowing the sport well enough to anticipate action helps. Also, I’ve learned a few tennis-specific tricks, but I imagine they have parallels in other sports.

One such example is trying to time the ball’s impact with the racket’s strings. Pros are so precise, and their skills make them so consistent, you can often watch for the ball to get in the right position with confidence that’s where they’ll make contact. I suppose another example would be that of a high cross in soccer (a pass kicked through the air from one side of the field to the other), which will lead to a header (when a player uses their head to play the ball).”

What would you say to other photographers about building a lasting career?

James Fawcette

“As photography gets commoditized, being able to add value to the photo has helped me. The photo-illustrations differentiate my work. In some cases, I’ve created cover images for a set of photos using typography on the names or headlines that graphically overlap the image. But if I’m trying to get an image published, rather than simply for fun, the illustration or abstraction has to serve a purpose.

For example, a photo-illustration I called “Sinner Hydra” was inspired by a tennis analyst, the excellent Brad Gilbert, saying “He gives you nowhere to go. Everywhere you look, Sinner has a weapon”. So, I created an image of Sinner with four arms holding a racket. Point made.

Another tactic that has worked for me is to understand the publication’s or site’s mission and create packages that fit that. A more pragmatic example is a set of images where I overlaid pop-up windows showing close-ups of how tennis players grip their rackets for a website that caters to teaching tennis pros. That’s added value. Differentiating your product is key.”

James really enjoyed participating in this spotlight article and would love to hear what you think of his photography and to answer any of your questions in the comments below.

You can check out James’s other work at jfawcette.myportfolio.com/work.

Editor’s note: This article continues a series, ‘What’s in your bag?’, highlighting DPReview community members, their photography and the gear they depend on. Would you like your photography to be featured in a future installment? Tell us a bit about yourself by filling out this form.

Last month, we asked who your biggest photography inspirations were. From family and friends to distant colleagues, you expressed a wide array of people you follow to build the courage and excitement for taking that next great photo. Related, our Features Editor, Abby Ferguson, wrote about her strategies for overcoming a creative drought through innovative photo projects.

When I’m in an inspiration void, as cliché as it may sound, the first thing I grab is an extra-sized cup of coffee. If that doesn’t do it and the opportunity presents itself, I’ll take a good long walk outside during a thunderstorm or blizzard (it’s like a cold shower that snaps you out of your morning stupor – just more adventurous and unpredictable).

I think one of the problems we run into when we look for inspiration is that it can feel forced. We want it to go so well that we end up overplanning and causing a creative drought where there may not have been one at all. The importance of planning the next shot to make it great has even been called into question by several community members in our What’s in your bag? spotlight series.

So, with that said…

What do you do when your photography inspiration runs dry?

Drop a reply in the comments section below, and if you’ve got a photo to include from your mentioned forum sections, it may be selected for next week’s showcase article on this topic!