Last week’s Question of the week asked: what one camera feature that doesn’t yet exist would you like to have? More than 100 DPReview readers responded with ideas ranging from practical improvements to hilarious and ambitious reimaginings of what a camera could do.

Built-in GPS, a true raw histogram and smartphone-style computational photography came up repeatedly. So did requests for more durable travel cameras, universal flash triggering, sensor-based tilt control and a return to smart depth-of-field modes. Below, we’ve gathered 10 of the most interesting suggestions – and a few wonderfully unconventional ones.

#1 – Built-in GPS, and why it’s harder than it sounds

GPS and geotagging were the most requested new camera features, with several posters adding location tracking and anti-theft locking to this bucket type. This makes sense. Who doesn’t want to know where they and their gear are at all times… right?

mach21photo asked for “a way to remotely brick your stolen camera.”

thielges explained why in-camera GPS has been unpopular: “it can take minutes to re-lock, and keeping it on drains the battery”. His suggested fix is to tether the camera to a phone over Bluetooth and stamp the phone’s location into the EXIF data. A winning solution.

#2 – Computational photography, but on the photographer’s terms

Several of you want smartphone-style processing in “real” cameras. Cameras and phones seem to be ever growing closer together, so you may actually get this wish someday.

jande9 wants a camera that constantly takes pictures in the background, so that pressing the shutter produces an image that averages each pixel to reduce noise, and that sends the result straight to the phone, much as a phone does today.

Mario F. described a very specific use case: an in-camera “window pull” HDR mode for real estate and interior photographers, who currently spend hours blending brackets for every property.

jesbe took that idea even further and asked for in-camera raw processing that runs while the camera is on standby or charging, using full Lightroom-level profiles, plus a compact with a real zoom, real flash and larger sensor but phone-level processing tricks.

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#3 – A true raw histogram

If computational photography isn’t of interest, how about a real raw histogram, raw-based zebras and a waveform display tech?

The community drilled down on a technical level as to why JPEG-based histograms mislead, with nobru1958 explaining the in-camera processing behind it and mcantsin noting that digital cinema cameras already offer raw exposure tools.

#4 – Cameras you can open up, lock down and trust

Franck Mee had three “simple” requests: standard Bluetooth audio support, file encryption (“a matter of life and death for reporters”) and open-source firmware, so that poor operating behavior can be fixed and security updates can be applied.

Others added their support, including patrol_taking_9j, who put it in two words: “Open firmware.”

A very practical set of considerations.

#5 – Designed for how people really shoot

IEBA1 wants more ruggedness in compact travel zooms. After, unfortunately, two of his had died, including one dropped while being pulled from a pocket (whoops), IEBA1 would happily accept a slightly larger body with a magnesium frame and a grip.

Chris Cookson wants a waterproof camera small enough for a rock pool or shallow creek, with at least a Micro Four Thirds sensor and strong macro capability, asking: “More of the earth is under water than in air, so why is it impossible to find a more capable go anywhere camera?” Great point, Chris!

#6 – Built-in wireless TTL flash triggering

Wireless flash control was a recurring wish, often accompanied by complaints about proprietary systems. psartman kept it short: “Built-in wireless TTL flash triggering.” When a reply pointed to a Nikon body that does this through its pop-up flash, psartman answered that many advanced and professional bodies don’t have a built-in flash.

Phill L wants to end the problem at the hot shoe, literally: “The end of proprietary hot shoes. Get with the game and have all brands’ flashes work on all cameras, with at least most of the functionality. Just add a digital communication bus so each brand can add their own special features and communicate through it. Sort of like USB but for flashes.”

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#7 – In-camera back tilt movements capability

Several of you want the camera to do what a tilt lens does, using the sensor stabilization system. dan pv had a good take on the idea:

“In-camera back tilt movement capabilities. The sensor could be tilted for a close-to-far sharpness at any f-stop in landscape or product photography. It could be done by the camera IBIS, extended a bit. One could choose on the LCD screen 2-3 points of sharpness, and the processor could compute and automatically apply the needed sensor tilt.”

L Lenson agreed and suggested where it could start: “At least medium format backs should have this capability. They are already expensive as it is, so adding the extra cost would perhaps not matter so much.” L Lenson also noted that the closest thing available today is a lens with a defect in which one side focuses closer than the other.

#8 – Borrowing tricks from astronomy

Perhaps the most ‘out there’ answer came from geekyrocketguy, who wants cameras to read the sensor non-destructively during an exposure:

“My background is astronomy, and this is a standard technique for the detectors there. It’s called ‘read up the ramp’ or ‘sample up the ramp.’ Basically, the sensor gets read out many times during an exposure and is only reset at the start. This offers the potential to greatly reduce read noise.”

This is actually a big deal. If a bright object saturates after three of ten reads, its brightness can be extrapolated from those three reads, which greatly extends dynamic range. For night and landscape work, geekyrocketguy calls it “game-changing.”

#9 – Bringing back DEP/A DEP

Not every idea was for something new. Several of you asked for the return of a feature that older Canon film and digital cameras already had: depth-of-field modes that work out the aperture for you, based on the nearest and farthest points you want sharp.

The idea came up in more than one post, and the most developed version, which drew some of the most reactions in the thread, came from Tony Hall, who would also like it updated for modern subject detection.

“Bring back DEP (or A-DEP) in which the camera calculates depth of field for you, either automatically or by defining a start and end point for your depth of field. Today, it would probably be called “smart aperture”. It could have various modes you could toggle by assigning a button to flip through them:

• Portrait: Both eyes in focus, eyes and ears or entire head in focus
• All detected faces in focus
• Only registered faces in focus
• Touch screen: touch near limit, touch far limit
• Similar settings for animals and other detected objects

While they’re at it, throw in some zone focusing modes you can assign to a button.”

rawdinal described how the original worked on the Canon EOS 5: “Focus on the closest point, focus on the farthest point. Then shoot.” He added a mysterious bit about the mode: “Nobody knows why this wonderful Mode was ripped off.”

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#10 – Old ideas that deserve a revival

Anyone remember the Contax AX, which focused by moving the film plane rather than the lens? It imagined a smaller modern take that could autofocus vintage primes.

ismith talked about it and said that he wanted “cool cameras” back, such as a new take on Sony’s DSC-R1.

A few bonus ideas for fun

When writing this article, I knew we would come across some wild ideas, but this one is extra unique. “A rope-pull starter for an internal combustion camera”, from focal yokel. It was noticed by our own reviews editor, Mitchell Clark, who said it would only work “if it takes, like, 5 times to get it running like most of the lawnmowers I’ve used.”

hieronymusevers asked for “the absence of 95% of all features a modern camera has,” which drew plenty of agreement from fans of simpler cameras. We can all relate to this sentiment at times, I bet.

Thanks to our inventive community for coming up with some truly unique and interesting new features that help us get the most out of our gear. I’ll take two of those internal combustion cameras, please.

Do you have a new feature to suggest? Join the discussion in the forums and tell us (and by extension, your favorite camera company) the feature you’d most like to see.

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.

When Apple announced the iPhone 18 Pro in September, the headline camera story was a mechanical variable aperture on the main camera, a first for the iPhone. It also came with Apple’s new Pro controls, which include the ability to set aperture, shutter speed and white balance manually.

What Apple hasn’t highlighted is a trade-off photographers should know about: if you set shutter speed manually, the iPhone 18 Pro appears to stop combining multiple frames into each photo. That means giving up some of the computational processing the iPhone relies on for image quality, particularly in low light.

What Pro controls do, and what they stop doing

Like every smartphone, the iPhone relies on computational photography to overcome the limits of its small sensor. All else being equal, a small sensor captures less light than the larger sensors found in most dedicated cameras, and less light equates to noisier images. To compensate, the phone shoots a rapid burst of frames, then aligns and merges them into a single photo, averaging those frames to reduce noise and improve dynamic range. (This is often referred to as frame stacking or frame blending.)

Here’s where it gets interesting: when you use Pro controls to set shutter speed manually, that process appears to stop. Instead, the phone captures one frame at the shutter speed you chose. Night mode also becomes unavailable. In contrast, setting the aperture manually doesn’t have this effect; the iPhone will keep stacking frames, just as it does on full auto.

There’s a defensible logic to this approach. Multi-frame capture often blends frames of different durations, which runs counter to the idea of choosing your own shutter speed. The phone could, in principle, stack several frames at your selected shutter speed instead, but a burst takes longer to capture than a single frame, and the resulting image would be a blend of several moments in time rather than a record of a single moment.

Tests: auto vs. manual exposure

We shot static scenes on a tripod with the main camera, in conditions ranging from bright daylight to night. Each scene was shot four ways: full auto, manual aperture, manual shutter speed and both set manually.

We matched the aperture and shutter speed across each set. (In bright daylight, auto mode often chose shutter speeds you can’t select manually, such as 1/2500 sec, in which case we used the closest available.) Pro controls don’t include ISO, so the camera selected automatically, but it was typically identical or within a third of a stop across image sets. We also disabled night mode to remove it as a variable.

The comparison below illustrates the impact of using manual shutter speed in low light.

F1.48 | 1/15 sec | ISO 10000 | Night mode disabled

The next example is slightly less extreme, but there’s still a noticeable difference between images.

F1.48 | 1/30 sec | ISO 640 (auto exposure)
F1.48 | 1/30 sec | ISO 400 (manual shutter)

Not surprisingly, when there’s a surplus of light, the difference is much less noticeable, as in this photo of some aspen trees on a sunny day.

F1.8 | 1/2500 sec | ISO 64 (auto exposure)
F1.7 | 1/2000 sec | ISO 50 (manual shutter)

Manual aperture mode produces essentially the same results as full auto mode. However, any configuration with a manually selected shutter speed can result in more noise, regardless of whether the aperture was set manually; it’s most noticeable in low light or deep shadows.

Why it matters

Low light is often where photographers want deliberate control over exposure, and it’s where the trade-off is most noticeable.

Apple hasn’t advertised this behavior, and we don’t read much into that; it’s a level of detail most consumers probably don’t want from a product launch. (Though Apple has explained its image processing in detail at past launches.) However, if you plan to buy an iPhone 18 Pro because of Pro controls, it’s worth understanding what’s happening behind the scenes.

When to use manual, and when to let the iPhone take control

Save manual shutter speed for when creative choices require control over exposure time, like creating motion blur or freezing action and accept that you’re getting a single-frame image. If it’s a photo you couldn’t have achieved without manual control, then the trade-off was likely worth it. But unless you have a deliberate reason for doing so, auto shutter speed will give you a cleaner image, particularly in low light.

To be clear, we don’t think Apple got this wrong. In fact, this approach arguably gives you just what you would expect when manually setting the shutter speed on a camera. But photographers should be aware that the trade-off exists.

Finally, if you’re thinking of upgrading to the iPhone 18 Pro for an improved camera, we recommend reading our comprehensive upgrade guide, which compares the 18 Pro’s camera and photography features to every iPhone Pro going back to the iPhone 12 series.

Easy smartphone connection is one of the most asked-for features we hear when talk to people about cameras, so we thought we’d investigate the current state of all the brands’ apps. Beyond a few frustrations, we found Canon’s Camera Connect to be one of the better options, at least with the recent cameras we had available to test.

Getting started

Before you can even use Canon’s Camera Connect app, you need to create a “Canon ID” using an e-mail address and password and log-in, which can be frustrating: it’s not entirely clear what benefit there is to the user of this. The app will also regularly ask you if you wish to register your camera with your Canon ID and will then remind you that you can do so, even if you say No. There’s no ‘do not show this message again’ option.

Richard Butler

To first connect the camera, you need to select your camera model from the app’s list of available models. This helps, in that it means the app should be able to guide you through the appropriate workflow for your camera model. 

Connecting the relatively recent PowerShot V1 to an Android phone was a case of using the displayed QR to download the app then starting the pairing process from the camera. With the app open and the camera trying to establish a connection, a pop-up box with the camera’s ID appeared on the app, letting me confirm Bluetooth pairing. I then had to confirm on the camera, too, then was good to go.

Richard Butler

Richard Butler

Once the two devices were paired, it was just a case of opening the app and waiting for a bluetooth connection to be established. As soon as the bluetooth icon lights up in the app, you get the choice of importing images from the camera or to engage live view remote shooting. 

Wi-Fi connectivity

Selecting either of these options tells the camera to turn its Wi-Fi on, and after a few moments the phone asks permission to connect to the Wi-Fi network the camera has established. Click ‘Connect’ and it establishes a connection fairly quickly.

Richard Butler

Richard Butler

On iOS you have to approve the network connection each time you re-establish a camera-to-phone Wi-Fi connection, whereas Android is happy to trust it, once you’ve given it permission the first time.

Richard Butler

The “Imaged on camera” option, once the Wi-Fi connection has been established, shows all the images currently on the camera’s card. On Android, you can only import JPEGs, and the camera will generate a JPEG if you try to import a Raw file. On iOS, the app is happy to transfer JPEG, HEIFs or Raws, probably because all three file types are supported by Apple’s operating system, so it knows what to do with the files. If you try to import an HDR HEIFs using the Android app it’ll tell you you have to manually convert the HEIF to a JPEG (and drop down to SDR) on the camera, first.

Remote live view shooting

Engaging remote live view shooting is a similar process: pressing the button in the app initiates a Wi-Fi connection that you’ll need to approve each time on the iOS version. You’re then given a live feed from the camera with an interface that lets you control a lot of the camera’s settings.

Richard Butler

You can adjust exposure settings, drive mode, AF mode, white balance and so forth. You can’t change exposure mode, though or, at least, not on a camera whether that’s set using a physical dial. You don’t get fine-grained control like WB fine tune and some functions can be greyed-out for reasons that aren’t obvious.

Richard Butler

Although not enabled by default, you can set the app to let you double-tap to zoom in the live view display to the area around the AF point. With this done, the manual focus function that lets you drive the focus forward or backward with three degrees of subtlety becomes much more useful, though the zoom only punches in to the 5x level of zoom, not the really fine 10x option you can get on the camera’s rear screen.

Richard Butler

Taking photos in live view shooting mode does not transfer them to the camera: you’ll need to leave the live view shooting option and switch back to the “Images on camera” function. You can review your images and even give them a rating, but that’s it.

Further functions

Away from the App’s Home tab is another called “Functions,” which will show the other modes and functions available with whichever camera you currently have connected.

Richard Butler

So, for example, most cameras have an Auto Transfer option, that lets you automatically send images from your camera to your phone, as you take them. With this function you have the choice of whether to downsize the files (to 1MB 1620 x 1080px files) before transfer and the option to remove location data from the transferred images.

This mode only continues to function while a Wi-Fi connection is maintained and the Auto Transfer function is still active in the app. Auto Transfer can’t be used in conjuction with the live view shooting mode, frustratingly. Auto Transfer can’t send Raws and won’t send HDR PQ HEIFs, either.

Also in the Functions tab are a ‘Bluetooth remote control’ function, an option to share the smartphone’s location data with the camera, to add it to images as you shoot them, and the ability to send your phone’s date and time to the camera, with the option to update these settings every time you reconnect the app. This last feature sounds especially useful when traveling across time zones.

Richard Butler

Richard Butler

There’s also the option to set your camera up to connect to local Wi-Fi networks, which then lets you engage its Cloud upload and Live Streaming features. You can also do this from the camera itself, but it’s likely to be easier to find and connect to Wi-Fi networks from the app in your phone, rather than having to navigate an on-screen keyboard in the camera’s menus.

Newer cameras may include the option to download Custom Picture color profiles for video from Canon’s LUT library. This downloads standard .cube LUTs to your phone, from where you can push them to your camera. Via a rather convoluted process, you can then save these LUTs into one of the Custom Picture slots in your camera and save them to the SD card to simplify the process in future.

The final option in a link to the camera’s online instruction manual. The precise behavior may depend on how your local Canon subsidiary uploads its manuals, but in the US, at least, you get the choice of the user manual as html pages or in pdf form.

USB connection

What really sets Camera Connect apart from many other manufacturer apps is the ability to connect the two devices directly with a USB cable. Canon’s recent cameras have a “Choose USB connection app” menu option at the end of their network settings menu. Android users can leave it in the default “Photo Import/Remote Control” setting, whereas Apply users will need to select “Canon app(s) for iPhone.”

Richard Butler

Once this is set, connecting a cable between the devices lets you jump straight into features such as image import, live view control or auto upload, that usually require a Wi-Fi connection. The Android version even asked whether you want Camera Connect to be automatically opened, when you connect your camera.

Richard Butler

This USB route is much faster than Wi-Fi and doesn’t require any pairing in advance. The camera doesn’t need to recognize the phone and you won’t need to select which phone to connect to, if you have more than one pairing registered: you just plug in and go. Even with a USB connection, the Android app won’t let you transfer Raws.

Other Apps

Finally, beyond the Functions tab, the Camera Connect app has an ‘Apps’ tab that lets you download Canon’s other smartphone apps, including its Selphy printing app and the EOS Webcam Utility Pro app.

Richard Butler

Richard Butler

Each time you open the app, it connects to Canon’s servers and checks for firmware updates for the currently active camera model. If an update is available, the app can show you the change log and let you download the firmware to your phone. It’ll then establish a Wi-Fi connection to the camera to transfer the firmware update file. 

Only once that file has transferred completely to the camera are you asked if you want to update the firmware, so you don’t have to worry about connection status during the update.

Meet Florent Chouffot

Home base: Belfort, France

Florent Chouffot, known in the community as Adynatoon, is fascinated by the relationship between various insects and plants. From delicate flowers to elaborate traps, Florent reveals the unexpected beauty of carnivorous plants. He shares how a Panasonic S1R and vintage lenses help him balance scientific detail with imaginative close-ups.

“I’m a French amateur photographer who’s been into the hobby since the early 2000s. I’ve always been fascinated by weather phenomena, especially thunderstorms. What frustrated me most was how fleeting these moments are, sometimes lasting only minutes… or just milliseconds in the case of a lightning strike. Photography felt like the obvious way to hold onto them.

Around the same time, I started growing carnivorous plants. I think they are the perfect expression of nature’s extreme adaptations, with extraordinary shapes and colors, and so many fine details you can barely see with the naked eye that deserve to be showcased. So from the very beginning, I’ve had these two interests: skyscapes and plant close-ups.”

Our ‘What’s in your bag?’ community spotlight series features readers sharing their favorite gear and photography, including from past DPReview collaborators. See below for what Lester has to share.

What’s in Florent’s bag

Florent Chouffot

Favorite cameras(s): Panasonic DC-S1R

“I’m currently using a Panasonic DC-S1R. It offers the best balance of features for the way I work, and when I bought it, it was a great bargain for what it delivers. I don’t need advanced autofocus – or much autofocus at all – and I don’t need speed. What I value is low ISO noise and very high detail. I also appreciate how many different lenses I can mount on it.”

Favorite lens(s): Pentax K SMC 55mm F4 macro

“For plant macro photography, I use a Pentax K SMC 50mm F4 macro – a lens from 1975! 50mm is an easy focal length to work with, perfectly suited to plants, and the lens, stopped down to F8, is fantastic from center to corner, with near-zero aberrations, no distortion and a punchy rendering. It’s also a real pleasure to use, with its beautifully dampened focusing ring.

I also use a Samyang 135mm F2 for more distant subjects, a very affordable lens that delivers excellent image quality. Unlike the Pentax, I almost always shoot it wide open for that dreamy look while keeping the important parts sharp wherever they sit in the frame. For wide-angle work, I have an old Pentax K SMC 28mm F3.5, though I might actually use it more for macro than for landscapes.”

Favorite bag: “My bag is a Manfrotto Gear Backpack M that I bought in 2014. I’ve changed cameras and lenses far more often than I’ve changed bags…”

Any unusual accessories you carry?

Florent Chouffot

Must-have accessories: “When going out in the field, I usually bring a small Godox flash with a diffuser, a remote controller, a Canon close-up lens and a reverse ring. Of course, a tripod for lightning and any night shooting session.”

“The most unusual camera I’ve used was an Imacon Ixpress 528C medium-format digital back with an integrated fan, mounted on a Mamiya 645DF. It came with a humongous battery-powered dedicated hard drive just to save the photos, so I had to attach it to my trouser belt while shooting. Believe me, I never complained about the size of Compact Flash cards after that. The setup was heavy and clumsy, but I really liked the unique image rendition and later regretted selling it.

The reverse ring has to be one of my favorites, because it turns a wide-angle lens into a high-magnification macro tool for just a few bucks. I use one with the old Pentax 28mm F3.5 lens. There are compromises (image quality isn’t even across the frame, unlike with most dedicated macro lenses), but it’s great fun, and it still amazes my hiking companions a bit like a magic trick.”

What makes carnivorous or insectivorous plants the perfect photo opportunity for you?

Florent Chouffot

“I shoot outdoors for obvious reasons when it comes to weather, and indoors with my plants when the sky isn’t particularly interesting. I have a terrarium filled with carnivorous plants that grow year-round under a horticultural LED panel, so I always have subjects available, even if the best angles can sometimes be tricky to get.

The only carnivorous plant I’ve photographed in its natural habitat so far is the oblong-leaved sundew (Drosera intermedia) in a nearby swamp. I sometimes go out looking for small critters as well, though they tend to be a much bigger source of frustration than plants, for a reason I probably don’t need to explain.”

“Leaves often look more interesting when backlit, because the light reveals the internal structure rather than just the surface. For carnivorous plants, backlighting can also show what’s inside the traps, creating unique, eerie images. When I photograph my own plants, I have all the time I need to find the best angle, the best light, and the exact moment when the plant looks most interesting.

Fully developed traps are an obvious subject, but many plant parts are actually just as interesting at various stages of their development, both from a botanical and an artistic point of view. I also like to show carnivorous plants both as people expect them to look – animal-like, almost aggressive – and in their much less familiar aspects: delicate, subtle or simply through their flowers.”

What’s changed since the beginning?

Florent Chouffot

“Learning is a permanent process. New techniques, but also a lot of trial and error with gear. I’ve experimented with everything from reverse rings and lens stacking to early digital medium-format equipment, just to explore different looks and understand what various systems are capable of.

What improved my photography most was simply practicing a lot, learning how both my gear and my subjects interact with light, and looking carefully at other people’s work on photography sites and forums like DPReview.”

What unusual environments are there around Belfort?

Florent Chouffot

“The most unusual environment I’ve worked in was a completely dark bunker where I photographed a cave-dwelling spider, Meta menardi, that had not yet been recorded around Belfort. There was no ambient light at all, so I worked entirely with flash.

Another memorable place is the swamp where I found the Drosera. It’s a fragile ecosystem that requires real care just to move around without damaging anything. The visit felt special because I had to move very slowly, almost the way you do when photographing animals, but for reasons of fragility rather than flightiness.

Simply finding the plants in that specific habitat was already rewarding, as they’re very small.”

While you said plants are easier than insects, what strategies still help to capture a great shot?

Florent Chouffot

“Practice as much as you can and don’t hold yourself back. Cameras and lenses are far more versatile than you often read online. People tend to present their own style and preferred gear as a universal truth – “X is better than Y”. For instance, I’m not a film photographer, and I don’t like the usually grainy results, but I think it’s wonderful that the option still exists for those who love the look or want to delve into it.

See what your preferred subjects are and discover how and with what you enjoy shooting them. The results matter, but so does the actual process. With my old Pentax lens, turning the super-smooth focusing ring to find focus is genuinely satisfying and makes me feel more connected to my photography. With so many cameras and lenses available, any of them can serve someone’s creativity if approached with an open mind.

When I photograph carnivorous plants, I always try to balance the scientific and the poetic. I’m interested in both the morphological features and the atmosphere the scene creates as a whole. It’s about celebrating the beauty and uniqueness of these plants, explaining why they look and function the way they do, while also trying to spark the viewer’s imagination.”

Florent really enjoyed participating in this spotlight article and would love to hear what you think of his photography and to answer any of your questions in the comments below.

You can check out Florent’s other work on Instagram.

Editor’s note: This article continues a series, ‘What’s in your bag?’, highlighting DPReview community members, their photography and the gear they depend on. Would you like your photography to be featured in a future installment? Tell us a bit about yourself by filling out this form.

Sometimes the future creeps up on you quicker than you expected. We’ve been thinking about re-starting our Throwback Thursday series for a while, but Sigma’s announcement of a 75-180mm equivalent lens for APS-C rather forced our hand.

This year marks 20 years since Sigma launched the original APO 50-150mm F2.8 EX HSM DC, a fast 75-225mm equivalent zoom for APS-C. A lens that gave APS-C DSLR users the range and utility of a classic 70-200mm but without the cost or weight of one.

DPReview marked the date with a single-paragraph news story along with Sigma’s press release, which was our standard level of lens coverage, back when the site had only a single full-time member of staff. We described it as “very interesting sounding.” Even for Phil’s level of British understatement, this is to significantly under-sell the lens. At a time when full-frame was out of reach for all but the most committed enthusiasts, this gave APS-C users a lens they hadn’t had before: a dedicated, fast 70-200mm equiv.

Richard Butler

A slightly revised Mark II with very similar specs was released in 2008 and a copy made its way to the DPReview offices. It must have been a Nikon version as there are samples in the review gallery of the Nikon D5000 and D300S reviews the next year. There’s one shot by Phil, but the rest seem to be by me. Because I loved that lens.

Sigma

I’d arrived at DPReview as the owner of both an APS-C DSLR and a 70-200mm F2.8 that I barely ever used because it was just too big and heavy to casually carry around. Even having bought it second-hand, it ended up being one of my least cost-effective photographic purchases ever.

The 50-150mm was a revelation: it was less than two-thirds the size of most 70-200mm F2.8s, less than two-thirds of the weight and something like two-thirds the price. Unsurprisingly, it was much more directly comparable with the dimensions of Canon’s popular 70-200mm F4, but offering a range I found more useful and with an extra stop of light capture on the APS-C cameras we tended to be testing.

Richard Butler

Richard Butler

It had the range to let me shoot things like bike racing and also made a pretty handy portrait lens, as it was much easier to handle and much less intimidating than a full-sized, tripod-footed 70-200 F2.8. And its compact size meant I did actually carry it around with me. And got more photos, as a result. The 50-150mm taught me an important lesson about how different formats can shine, if they’re properly supported.

I used it regularly over the time we had it and was disappointed when its stabilized replacement used the same housing as the 70-200mm F2.8 launched alongside it: giving up the size and weight benefits that appealed so much in the first place. It’s what perhaps made me a little over-excited when, years later, Fujifilm and Samsung produced similar lenses, even though they weren’t as small or light as I’d hoped.

I think I’ve requested or asked after a 50-150mm successor almost every time I’ve met Sigma’s CEO, Kazuto Yamaki. I thought I was reading too much into his response when he seemed more positive about the idea, last time we met.

But the only thing that excited me more than hearing that Sigma was about to lauch a spiritual successor to the 50-150mm F2.8, was unboxing it for the first time and finding out that the new lens is even smaller and even lighter than its DSLR forbear. And, looking at the images: sharper and better able to focus, too. I wonder if this new lens will inspire the same decades-long appreciation.

You can never have enough of a good thing, right? So, for this week’s Question of the week, don’t worry about your GAS problem and instead lean into it. Demand from camera manufacturers that their cameras all lack that one key feature you wish were included. A feature so effective or powerful, you’d sell all your other gear to get it.

As the lead image in this article indicates, I’m a huge steampunk fan. If I were a camera engineer, the one feature I would want is a steampunk skin for my favorite camera. I could easily see this on some of the more retro-looking cameras, such as the Fujifilm X-M1.

So, with that said…

What one camera feature that doesn’t yet exist would you like to have?

Let’s put everything on the table, from the mundane, simple tweaks to the outrageous additions that would break the industry and even spacetime itself.

Drop a reply in the comments section below, and if you’ve got a photo to include of one of your cameras that looks like it might have been overengineered, it may be selected for next week’s article on this topic!

Full-frame has been the center of attention for the past few years, which can result in it overshadowing other formats. But, with the right support, different formats have their place, and we all lose out if those options are neglected.

Full-frame gets its name – and much of its level of manufacturer backing – from the fact that it allowed photographers to use their film-era lenses as originally designed. The economics of sensor manufacture pushed the likes of Canon, Nikon and Konica Minolta into the use of smaller sensors at the start of the digital era, but the large user-bases, including professional users with existing lens commitments, along with significant R&D investment having been spent on building up lens lineups, created powerful incentives to move to sensors that captured the “full frame” that those film-era lenses were designed to project.

That same push from users wanting to keep using their existing lenses, along with an audience now familiar with the image quality of digital full-frame, ensured that similar pressures came to bear as the industry moved across to mirrorless, such that the dimensions of “35mm” film still dominate the pro and enthusiast-focused products from Canon, Nikon and Sony.

And this concentration of development efforts means “full-frame” is the most extensively supported format on the market. Canon, Nikon and Sony all make APS-C cameras, but the bulk of their lens investment has been focused on full-frame, just reinforcing that format’s primacy in their lineups.

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

But that doesn’t mean it’s the best format or even some kind of carefully considered optimum. Like all formats, it’s an arbitrary choice; in this instance, it dimensions came about because a German engineer decided to use silent-era cinema film the wrong way round, more than a century ago.

Every sensor format represents a trade-off between size, price and image quality. Larger sensors (or film formats) have an inherent image quality advantage because they have more light-capturing surface, but the lenses needed to provide any given field-of-view have longer focal lengths, making them bigger, heavier and more expensive. You can hunt around for exceptions: a particularly large or small body, or one especially small prime lens, but for the system as a whole, the overall trade-off remains true.

Full-frame digital can offer spectacular image quality, but even with the move to mirrorless, its cameras and lenses are larger than their film-era counterparts were. If the 35mm film format was a Goldilocks balance of quality vs portability and cost, then digital full-frame isn’t, because it offers a completely different balance. Better image quality, but with both a size and financial cost (and these differences are worth considering before you decide to point out that 35mm film could be called ‘small format’).

If you’re after something closer to the balance of size, price and image quality that 35mm film offered, you might find it in APS-C instead. Its smaller sensor means it doesn’t match the depth-of-field that 35mm film offered, but in terms of IQ, camera and lens size, it’s much closer to being a match. Just compare the size of the Nikon FE, Fujifilm’s X-T5 and Nikon’s Zf, paired with appropriate lenses, to confirm this for yourself.

Richard Butler

Likewise, for travel and wildlife in particular, the smaller Four Thirds format lets you further downsize the whole setup, giving lenses with longer reach or compact prime-lens combinations that let you travel light. Yes, you pay an image quality cost for moving to a smaller format, but you might end up with a shot that you simply wouldn’t get if your kit becomes too unwieldy to carry with you. 

The same is true in the other direction: 44 x 33mm Medium Format offers around a two-thirds-of-a-stop advantage over full-frame, at the same exposure, if you want better image quality. But those same downsides of larger, more expensive lenses are inescapable.

All formats are arbitrary size/price/image quality trade-offs. They may be popular or well-supported, but none is inherently best, because each has an innate compromise at its heart. And what makes sense for you, isn’t necessarily ideal for everyone.

Those other options, and that ability to choose a format that suits your kind of shooting, will only exist if those formats continue to be supported by manufacturers and by photographers. We lose that choice if we decide that some formats are lesser, or just stepping stones to another, rather than treating each as an entity in its own right.

Last month, we announced a special mini-challenge event that invited the community to submit a themed photo, with the theme rotating every 48 hours. This meant 15 distinct themes with 15 opportunities to submit a photo throughout September.

Below is a selection of the challenge participants in no particular order. Read on to see what wild and diverse photos, and the story behind them, came about from this event.

Something that moves

GulfCoastFL

GulfCoastFL: What are the odds I would catch this hummingbird just as it passes our Blue Angels bluebird house while being pursued by a lizard? I see these lizards every day trying to ambush the hummers on our feeders. Quick as the hummers are, I think they are safe.

Photograph of a framed photograph

jaberg

jaberg: This photo of my father, walking in a local park, hangs in the corner where his chair once sat. The rest of the “decor” is a work in progress. My partner and I are still figuring out where things should go – most of this is waiting for an assignment.

I still see dad daily at his assisted living, but I miss having him here, in his corner.

An everyday object with an interesting story

Myles Baker

GWKilgore: I’ve owned a fair few watches over the years, from my first Timex more than half a century ago to my latest smart watch bought a few months ago. It’s rare that I do not have one on my wrist.

I wear them for much the same reason that I use cameras, there is something tactile & real about both that you don’t get with the ubiquitous smartphone.

This particular watch is the oldest one that I currently own & was a gift from my wife on our first wedding anniversary, 32 years ago. Constant wear over the years shows on the case & strap, but it still keeps on keeping on.

Oddest thing around your neighborhood

Ansel Spear

Ansel Spear: The inappropriately scaled and situated Ben Ainslie building was built in 2014 in Old Portsmouth, the historic quarter. It was designed to give Ainslie’s racing team a local foothold during the 2015 / 2016 America’s Cup Series, held in the Solent, off Portsmouth, using AC45F foiling catamarans.

After getting through sponsors Land Rover and INEOS at an injudicious rate of knots, Ainslie’s lot up-sticks and leaves, leaving us with a colossal blot on the landscape. To call it an eyesore would be an understatement.

Most photogenic scene in your neighborhood

Joachim Wulfers

Joachim Wulfers: One of the exhibits at a hot road show.

Something old that you still use

jaberg

jaberg: My Grandfather’s coffee mug. My father had an identical cup. It’s an object that has always been in my life – I literally can’t remember a time when it wasn’t present, and it might predate my birth. My nephew has that mug now. I don’t drink from Grandpa’s mug anymore. It sits on my dresser, organizing my “carry” pens, pencils, etc., and serves as a location for (non-e) tickets to upcoming events. A twice-daily reminder of my grandfather, my father, and from where I come.

Something outside that makes you happy

cbf_si

cbf_si: Cultural heritage cannot be replaced, but it must be preserved. The photograph shows shepherds’ attire on the nearby mountain of Velika Planina, where cows are still grazed and cheese is made by hand. Photo taken at the 53rd National Costume and Clothing Heritage Days held in Kamnik, Slovenia.

Something you couldn’t replace

beorn76

beorn76: A Moka Bialetti that has seen so many coffees over the years, never a flinch, always ready to please its many admirers eagerly and patiently waiting.

Something growing or changing

Spid

Spid: Chilies ripening in the glasshouse, awaiting their turn to be turned into something hot and tasty.

What’s on your dinner plate?

david kohn

david kohn: When in Roma, the pigeon doesn’t get your pizza.

There are more 48-hour themes to check out in the event’s album, along with many interesting stories about the photos from our community. We would love for you to join in on the discussion!

This month, Nikon released the Z5IIC, which is essentially a version of its Z5II mirrorless camera, but with the viewfinder removed and a lower price point. And while that top-line summary is closer to the whole story than usual, there are a few nuances that are worth looking at if you’re trying to decide between the two models.

No EVF

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

The most obvious difference between the two cameras is that the Z5II has a (particularly nice) electronic viewfinder that you can use in sunny conditions, or when you’d prefer not to look at a rear screen, and the Z5IIC does not. How much that will bother you comes down to personal preference; are you willing to give up an EVF to save some money, and do you value you the camera being a bit smaller and easier to get into and out of a camera bag?

While both the Z5IIC and the Z5II have 3.2″ fully-articulating displays, the one on the more expensive, full-size model is a bit higher-resolution at 2.1 million dots, versus the Z5IIC’s 1.04M. That’s not as big a difference as those numbers may seem – they equate to 1024 x 682px and 720 x 480px, respectively – but while we found the screen to be quite usable, it is undoubtedly not quite as nice. Neither comes all that close to a display you’d find on a smartphone, though.

Storage

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

This is another relatively simple arena: the Z5II has two UHS-II card slots, while the Z5IIC has one. This could be a slight annoyance when shooting video, where it can be nice to have your recording automatically roll over to a second card once you’ve filled one up, and can bring some peace of mind if you’re a photographer worried about the possibility of your card dying before you can offload it (something that can happen, but very rarely). That assurance is also nice if you’re capturing a once-in-a-lifetime event or trip.

Most shooters, however, will be perfectly well-served by a single card-slot camera. And in cases where you absolutely must have backups, Nikon’s app lets you automatically transfer 8MP JPEGs from your camera to your phone as you take them. (Unfortunately, there’s no option for full-size JPEGs or Raws, unless you have the camera directly connected to Wi-Fi and set to automatically upload to Nikon’s Imaging Cloud service).

Controls and handling

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

The Z5IIC and Z5II have, once again, very similar controls, with essentially the exact same mix of programmable buttons on the top, rear and front plates. (The one difference: by default, the button to the right of the mode switch on the Z5II is set to AF On, while on the Z5IIC it’s focus and exposure lock, though either can be customized to behave like the other). Likewise, both cameras have twin top-plate control dials.

The one control omitted on the Z5IIC is a joystick, leaving you to control your AF point using the touchscreen or the multi-directional controller. When we were using it, we frequently found ourselves reaching for the nonexistent joystick, since it can be more convenient than using the touchscreen, especially if you’re shooting at odd angles. But at least we never had to worry about how to control the focus point when we had the camera’s EVF up to our eye…

There is one other difference between the two: the Z5II has three user-defined settings on its mode dial, while the Z5IIC only has two, replacing the third with a “Scene” setting.

Scene modes

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

Choosing the Scene setting lets you select what you’re trying to take a picture of and have the camera automatically optimize some of its settings for it. For instance, if you set it to sports, the camera will do its best to choose a fast shutter speed. If you instead tell it you’re trying to capture a dusk or dawn scene, it’ll set the white balance to preserve the colors as your eye sees them.

This isn’t a feature Nikon has included on its full-frame cameras before, so it’s absent on the Z5II. This may make the Z5IIC seem more attractive if you’re looking for your first camera and aren’t accustomed to having full control over the wide variety of settings mirrorless cameras offer. (However, we believe you’ll be better served by learning to make those decisions yourself, rather than using a somewhat clunky mode that can restrict your creative freedom).

Size and weight

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

Despite the Z5IIC’s lack of an EVF, it isn’t substantially lighter than the Z5II. It comes in at 620g (22oz), versus 700g (25oz), a mere 11% reduction.

Likewise, it’s only marginally shorter at 81mm (3.2″) tall, rather than 101mm (4.0″). We did find the lack of an EVF hump meant it was easier to slip in and out of a camera bag, but it being the same thickness and width as the Z5II means you’ll probably need to have a dedicated bag to carry it around in. Once you have a lens mounted, it’s a bit big for all but the roomiest of purses, and would struggle to fit in even the most generous of jacket pockets.

Autofocus

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

Both cameras have very similar autofocus systems, with all the features we’d want from a modern mirrorless option, including the ability to recognize and track various subjects. And while we haven’t done our in-depth testing on the Z5IIC yet, the experience we’ve had with it gives us no reason to suspect that it won’t perform the same as the Z5II.

The one other autofocus difference: the Z5II has an AF assist lamp, which the camera can use to add a little extra illumination when it’s trying to focus in an extremely dark scene. The Z5IIC trades this for a tally light to indicate when the camera is recording video.

Pricing, now and in the future

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

Many people have been quick to point out that, at the moment of the Z5IIC’s launch, you can buy a standard Z5II for around the same money, or even less. And if that’s the still the case as you’re reading this, our advice is straightforward: you should buy the Z5II.

However, it’s worth keeping in mind that MSRP is always an opening bid. This is likely the most expensive the Z5IIC will ever be (at a price that still makes it the joint second least expensive full frame camera ever), and, based on past pricing trends, we expect it will be sold for remarkably cheap after a few months on the market. That is, after all, what it seems to be designed to do. If and when you can buy it for as much cheaper than the Z5II as the delta between the cameras’ MSRPs suggests, it’ll be a much easier recommendation if you’re trying to save some money while starting a new hobby.

Summary

The Z5IIC and Z5II are much more alike than they are different. Beyond what we’ve covered in this article, they’re essentially the same, spec-for-spec, with the same stabilized sensor, mechanical shutter, burst rates, ports, video modes and more. It’s remarkable how inexpensive Nikon has managed to make the Z5IIC without making it feel cheap, both in terms of features and build.

Deciding between the two will largely depend on your budget and how much you value an EVF and the other features the Z5II offers.

Nikon Z5II

Nikon Z5IIC

Meet Jean-Pierre Zanotti

Home base: Toulon, France

Jean-Pierre Zanotti, known as JP Zanotti in the forums, is a Toulon-based photographer who explores the remains of abandoned buildings across France and Italy. Working primarily with Fujifilm X-series cameras and ultra-wide lenses, he captures the light, objects and human traces left behind in these forgotten spaces.

“I’ve been doing this since my teenage years, so a long time now. I got into photography through astronomy, which I practiced with a club. The ever-present clouds of my native Lorraine home quickly pushed me toward something else: the decaying industrial sites that dotted the region. I later took a long exposure (pun intended) to raise my children, then picked this dusty road back up – digitally this time.”

Our ‘What’s in your bag?’ community spotlight series features readers sharing their favorite gear and photography, including from past DPReview collaborators. See below for what Lester has to share.

What’s in Jean-Pierre’s bag

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

Favorite cameras(s): Fujifilm X-T2, Fujifilm X-T3 and Fujifilm X-T5

Favorite lens(s):

• Fujinon 8mm F3.5, 16mm F1.4, and 56mm F1.2
• Viltrox 9mm F2.8 Air and 13mm F1.4

“I gradually converged on Fujifilm back in 2014, after going through Canon, Nikon, Olympus and Sony along the way. For what I shoot, it simply delivers the best overall image quality. For years, the Fujinon XF 10-24mm F4 was my main companion – most of the images here were shot with it – before I moved on to fixed focal lengths that suited me better: the Viltrox 9mm F2.8 Air and 13mm F1.4.”

Must-have accessories: “An ultra-light rain jacket, folded down small, since some spots are one hour or more on foot – there’s no turning back to the car if the weather turns. And obviously, food and water.

If I had to pick one favorite thing, it’s the X-E5 paired with the Viltrox 9mm – that combination handles the tight, cluttered interiors I shoot in better than almost anything else in my bag.”

Any more unusual accessories you carry?

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

“Does a folding Silky saw for clearing branches count? It’s amazing how quickly vegetation reclaims the abandoned areas I photograph, sometimes literally blocking the way in.

I also carry an inflatable LED light stick and a small 3.5×3.5-inch LED panel for pitch-black spaces. That said, I rarely actually shoot with them: artificial light tends to look wrong in this kind of photography, so they’re mostly there as a distant fill when nothing else will do, or just so I can see where I’m walking. I still bring a Nodal Ninja panoramic head occasionally, but modern ultra-wide lenses have improved so much that I rarely need it anymore.

For abandoned buildings, bring a sturdy 5-meter cord to haul camera bags up high places. And bring with you a hard hat, Petzl headlamp, tough clothing, high boots, clear safety glasses to keep debris out of your eyes, a dust mask and flexible yet sturdy gloves for handling broken glass.

All of it goes into a Lowepro Flipside Trek BP 350 AW, and I love it: lightweight, genuinely tough and with enough real capacity to fit all the gear I just listed.”

What about abandoned buildings is so interesting to photograph?

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

“What draws me in is anything that still holds real photographic potential – and that potential rarely depends on the place being spectacular. Sometimes the most striking shot comes out of the plainest room: a bare corridor, an empty doorway, where the light and the composition just happen to align. I live in the south of France, with Italy just two hours away, so a lot of what I shoot comes from there.

The most memorable trip I took was an entire day, alone, in a former psychiatric hospital in Italy. It’s one of those rare places that has everything at once – strong photographic potential in nearly every room, an unusual density of objects and traces left behind, a history that’s genuinely unsettling once you start reading into it, and an atmosphere that’s hard to describe to someone who hasn’t experienced it.

Spending a full day there, completely alone, gave me the strongest sense of time travel I’ve ever had on one of these expeditions. It’s still the single most impactful place I’ve visited.”

What’s changed since the beginning?

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

“I’ve practiced street photography for years, as I’ve seen others in the DPReview community do. I think it’s shaped how I see these places, even though the two couldn’t be more different on the surface – one is pure instinct, the other pure patience. What connects them, I think, is an interest in people, whether they’re right in front of the camera or long gone.

There’s nothing mystical about it: a room still holds the shape of the lives that were lived in it – how furniture was arranged, what was left on a shelf, which door got used most. Reading that is, in its own way, still photographing people, just at one remove.

Really, it’s less about the type of place than what happens once I’m inside. Silence is the first thing that hits – a total absence of noise that’s genuinely rare to experience today. The light is almost always diffuse, filtered through vegetation that’s reclaimed the space or through windows boarded up to keep intruders out. Whatever the building was – a factory, church, hospital, home – it all triggers the same immediate shift into another time.”

Taking a moment to plan a shot is a common theme among veterans. What does this mean for your photography?

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

“Some of these sites are so overwhelming that I get a kind of shooting frenzy – the urge to photograph everything at once – and that’s exactly when concentration goes out the window. These places are abandoned, but that doesn’t mean private or safe, so there’s no coffee break to fall back on; you just have to force yourself to slow down.

Then it’s a checklist: setting to the lowest native ISO, tripod fully deployed and stable – no exceptions, ever – bracketing almost as a systematic precaution, manual focus with focus peaking, and a thorough blower cleaning, since dust becomes a real problem on wide-angle shots against the light. I step back from the tripod to avoid transmitting any vibration through the floor during long exposures. Then, a careful check of sharpness before moving on. All told, a single shot can easily take five to ten minutes to set up.

If you’re tempted to try this kind of adventure, take real precautions and don’t be reckless. Accidents always happen exactly where you least expect them – never where the danger looks obvious.

Jean-Pierre Zanotti

And on gear: don’t let it become an excuse. I’ve made large prints I’m genuinely proud of with a Canon PowerShot A70 (bought new for $449) and a secondhand $50 Panosaurus head, and shot excellent large-format results with an old Olympus bridge camera and a wide-angle converter. The gear in this article helps, but it was never the reason any of these photos worked.”

Jean-Pierre really enjoyed participating in this spotlight article and would love to hear what you think of his photography and to answer any of your questions in the comments below.

You can check out Jean-Pierre’s other work at jpzanotti.com.

Editor’s note: This article continues a series, ‘What’s in your bag?’, highlighting DPReview community members, their photography and the gear they depend on. Would you like your photography to be featured in a future installment? Tell us a bit about yourself by filling out this form.

This is the concluding article looking at why our perspective on cameras’ prices can seem out-of-step with other people’s initial reactions, on the day of launch. And it covers that fact the MSRPs always seem expensive, at first.

I don’t think we’ve reported on many launches without at least some people commenting, “it’s too expensive, what are they thinking?” or some variation thereof. And then comparing the price to the cost of an outgoing model, the price they paid for something in a sale, years earlier, or a second-hand deal on a completely unrelated camera type.

All of which is to miss the point. MSRPs aren’t the same thing as street prices and, although they’re quoted in the same units, they’re not particularly comparable.

MSRPs are the manufacturer’s opening gambit: they generally represent the highest price they’ll ever get for a product. An ‘early-adopter tax’, in many instances.

On the day of launch, all cameras look over-priced because their peers have been on the market for a while, their prices have softened somewhat, or they’ve explicitly been put on sale. And those MSRPs look even more overpriced if you compare them to the outgoing model, or a previous one because the manufacturer and retailers are trying to get rid of them, before they become impossible to sell.

Richard Butler / Mitchell Clark

But, just in case it needs saying: no manufacturer can introduce a new product at the narrow-to-no margin price that the outgoing model is being flogged-off at. Nor can they sensibly consider the second-hand prices of decade-old higher-end models, when setting prices.

This all varies somewhat between markets. In the US, list prices are more aggressively maintained than in Europe and the UK, where retailers have more freedom to offer some sort of discount fairly soon after the camera hits the shelves. This, along with Euro and Sterling prices usually being quoted including tax, is a big part of why US prices typically appear cheaper at first: because the US list price is set at a level that more people will have to actually pay.

None of which is an attempt to say you should just pay the MSRP on Day 1: quite the opposite. If an older, higher-end model is still floating around when the new model is launched and it suits your requirements, you should probably buy that. Our attempts to put pricing in a longer-term context aren’t an attempt to encourage you to buy something at full price.

But if history has repeatedly shown that those old models disappear from the market and the price of the new camera drops to a level comparable to others launched at the same MSRP, then it would be perverse and unhelpful to pretend we don’t know this. We want our reviews to still make sense a month or so after publication, which they won’t if we declare all new cameras “overpriced” despite what we know will happen next.

MSRPs let us see how things are positioned, relative to one another. They help us understand the price point, rather than the literal consumer price, of a camera.

Inflation muddies the waters still further, and prices are going up, but it’s worth remembering that launch prices have always looked too high. Even for that camera you’re now holding up as an example of what this new model should cost.

Camera prices, like most other prices, are going up. Part of this has been manufacturers focusing on high-end users, because they tend to buy the higher-margin products. But even attempts at making more accessible cameras can seem wildly expensive, compared to the prices we remember paying.

And that’s not a question of manufacturers being foolish or greedy. Whether we like it or not, we are living through a period of higher inflation than we’re used to.

This is the first of a two-part series looking at why the perspective on cameras’ prices in our reviews can seem out-of-step with other people’s initial reactions, on the day of launch.

Many of us lived through a more than twenty-year period of relatively low inflation. Prices of most things rose by around 2% per year, the cost of electronics fell, partly with the outsourcing of manufacture and through increased efficiencies and economies of scale. Wages typically kept pace with inflation, so things didn’t feel more expensive. Large sensor digital cameras got cheaper at first, then settled into a pattern of improving while maintaining their existing price.

Richard Butler

Sadly, that’s no longer the world we live in. It’s impossible to enumerate all the factors that got us to here without spiraling off into discussions of politics, but there have been a host of inflationary pressures over the past few years. Whether it’s supply-chain shocks, tariffs, wars putting pressure on oil and gas prices or out-of-control demand for processors and RAM, there’s more pushing prices up than encouraging them to drop.

Manufacturer’s materials and energy costs have gone up. Their component prices have become erratic. Their wages have gone up. Their logistics costs have increased. They cannot make cameras for the prices we used to pay. And, because of the way inflation works, the $1000 you had planned for your next purchase simply isn’t worth as much as that figure have been, five or six years ago.

I suspect it’s not just me who finds myself marveling at articles or footage from the 70’s showing a pint of beer priced in pennies or a gallon of ‘gas’ in cents. To a more modern ear, that just seems unimaginable, and it’s hard to see how we got from there to where we are. For most of my adult life, the changes have been incremental enough that I didn’t notice the jump. But thinking back to when I was at college, a pint in my favorite pub was £1.36. I visited the same pub this summer, and it was £5.30. Those little changes have ramped up into big ones in the past few years, and now the prices of my own yesteryears are beginning to seem impossibly distant. 

The same thing is happening with cameras, and just about all manufactured products: the value of money is dropping faster than any reduction in the cost of electronics (and a lot of key components are being bought for AI, before it can get anywhere near consumer products). Also, there’s every chance that it’s been some time since you last bought a new camera, and that precisely remembered reference point is no longer realistic.

None of which is to say that we have to like it. I’m not trying to defend it, or suggesting you should (or even can) just decide it doesn’t matter. But getting frustrated about it or insisting that the latest camera should cost what your last one did, pre-pandemic, isn’t going to change things. None of us enjoys it, but pretending inflation doesn’t exist or that rising prices are down to manufacturer misjudgment or greed doesn’t get you anywhere useful.

Every photographer has a first moment when they realize their time behind the camera is something they truly care about. For some, the spark comes from a chance encounter with a unique camera in a shop window or from the skills of a beloved relative who’s also into photography. For others, it stems from a childhood TV hero, or perhaps an interest to document family life.

Last week, we asked our community what set their photography journey in motion, and the replies were as varied as the photographers themselves. Read on to see what sparked the DPReview community into photo-taking action.

lumigraphics: I was in the Navy when Queen Elizabeth made an official state visit to my ship (USS Ranger in San Diego, 1983). I only had a little 110 camera and wanted better results, so I bought a Canon AE-1 Program from the ship’s store, and the rest is history. 43 years later, I’m a working pro. Might be the only person around who is a photographer because of the Queen.

Dimpsey: Early morning trips to buy bread rolls for breakfast. The bakery often wasn’t open, but the chemists across the road had cameras in their window. One was all shiny silver knobs and a gleaming top plate. It was utterly irresistible, and I wanted it. That was over 60 years ago, and I’m still taking the camera(s) out today!

SGA

SGA: As a kid, I wanted to be Jimmy Olsen, Cub Reporter. I loved watching him on the original Superman TV show, running around Metropolis with his old folding camera. But all my parents got me was a Kodak Brownie, which used 127 film.

NorCalPhotonFoundry: My grandfather was a lifelong photography enthusiast, and when I was 6 or 7 years old, he gave me a cheap little plastic point-and-shoot camera for Christmas. For me, the “spark” was the magic of being able to capture, keep and share a moment or perspective; something which still brings me joy to this day. I still have and use my childhood QL17, and am grateful to my grandpa for giving me that first plastic point-and-shoot.

Alun Thomas: My interest was kindled by my cycle touring interest. I would go on forums to read others’ trip reports and wonder why my photos were so rubbish compared to theirs. So I bought a Sony A5100, then soon started buying different lenses. I eventually switched to full-frame, and now the hobby is more prominent for me than cycling.

GWKilgore: I grew up hunting. I was in my 30s when I went out to Oregon in 1975 to hunt mule deer. Right after sunrise, I bagged a nice buck. I was worn out and told my hunting companions this was too much work. I said that I would trade my rifle for a camera.

GatoAmarillo

Gato Amarillo: I think it might have started here (see photo above). That’s me in about 1952 with my father and sister at the Tri-State Fair in Amarillo. The photographer was from one of the local newspapers, and I still vaguely remember being fascinated by the big camera. It was another 20 years or so before I started serious photography myself, but I suspect that experience was the spark.

Edgar_in_Indy: When we started having kids in the early 2000’s, my wife and I would go to one of the franchised photography studios at the mall. It would kill us to see the screen fill up with dozens of great pictures of our child, but only be able to pick a handful due to the cost of each picture.

I ended up buying an early DSLR and a couple of old studio strobes and never had to visit those mall studios again. I’m not sure we actually saved any money in the long run, given my camera collection, but we have so many great family photos from over the years.

GeoInSD: When I was a child, my family used cheapie cameras, like Kodak Brownies and Instamatics. I remember seeing my granduncle having an SLR system that I thought was pretty cool. My interest in photography started when I took a photography class in high school. I was stunned by the vastly superior image quality of a 35mm SLR compared to Kodak Brownies and Instamatics.

I was not an early adopter of digital. I held off until shutter lag was comparable to film AND the DSLR body was under $1000 US. The Nikon D70 was the first DSLR that met those criteria in my book.

There are many other stories from our community. We would love for you to join in on the discussion!

With the release of Adobe Camera Raw 18.7, we now have Raw support for the OM System PEN, bringing us one step closer to being able to complete our review.

As you might expect, the PEN’s performance is a match for that of the OM-5 Mark II, with which it shares a sensor and processor. This may seem obvious but we have to check, to be certain that our assumptions about shared components are correct and that there are no unreported changes to the processing. It also ensures that you can select the OM System PEN in our test scene, if you want to make any comparisons in future.

Its 20MP sensor captures a good level of detail (our test scene gives a slight benefit to 4:3 aspect ratio cameras, reducing the already minor difference between the PEN and the 24MP of the Canon EOS R10). In terms of noise the PEN’s performance is a little behind the larger sensor of the Nikon Z50II, but it’s not significantly noisier than the Canon, whose 1.6x crop sensor seems to slightly underperform expectations.

The PEN’s performance is entirely in keeping with what we’d expect to see from a modern sensor, backing up the results we got when shooting its sample gallery. We’ve already seen that the JPEG engine can produce a range of attractive results and these confirm that the technical underpinnings are sound.

Meet Peter Swan

Home base: Durham, England

Peter Swan, known as TheDispossessed in the forums, is a Durham-based nature photographer who has found a hidden world of subjects in the small things many people overlook. His compact Micro Four Thirds kit is built around an Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II and a 60mm macro lens. The selectively chosen diffused flash helps him reveal the color, texture and character of insects and other smaller creatures – from garden regulars to rare British butterflies.

“I first got into photography properly when I purchased my first digital camera, a Canon PowerShot S60, back in 2004. Back then, my main subjects to photograph were landscapes and cityscapes. I got my first DSLR a couple of years later (a Canon 350D) in 2006. This led me to become interested in photographing subjects that required specialized lenses – for example, those capable of 1:1 macro. Since then, I’ve steadily built up a collection of photographic gear but have gravitated towards the micro four-thirds format for its overall convenience.”

Our ‘What’s in your bag?’ community spotlight series features readers sharing their favorite gear and photography, including from past DPReview collaborators. See below for what Lester has to share.

What’s in Peter’s bag

Peter Swan

Favorite cameras(s): Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II

Favorite lens(s):

• Olympus 60mm F2.8 macro (“my favorite lens”)
• Olympus 100-400mm F5-6.3
• Olympus 25mm F1.2
• Panasonic 12-32mm F3.5-5.6
• Panasonic 35-100mm F4-5.6

“All five lenses and the camera can easily fit in my backpack with space for food, waterproofs, etc. If need be, I can even squeeze in my Panasonic GX9, which semi-permanently has the 7-14mm F4 lens attached – such are the benefits of the micro four thirds system!”

Must-have accessories: “A Nissin i40 flash that is held together with duct tape, Marumi DHG Achromat 200 close-up lens and a Cygnustech diffuser – all alongside a couple of polarising filters.

I usually bring food, water, waterproof clothing, and most importantly, a tick remover. When you’re out searching for minibeasts in the undergrowth, it is only a matter of time before you pick up a tick, so it’s best to get them out quickly and safely to minimize the risk of picking up a tick-borne disease.

All of it is put into a Tarion rolltop camera bag. It has plenty of space for my lenses and camera(s), a laptop if needed, and the rest.”

What about insects is so attractive to photograph?

Peter Swan

“I have a passion for photographing insects and other invertebrates, which emerged shortly after getting my first macro lens in 2015. I love being out in nature, but I didn’t have the patience to sit for hours in a bird hide.

With minibeast photography, you can go out to any park, nature reserve, or even into your garden, and you’ll find something to photograph – even in the middle of winter. Even in a nature-depleted, highly populated country with a cool maritime climate (the UK), you’ll be surprised at just what you can find when you go out looking for it.

Along with butterflies and dragonflies, some of the most interesting species, such as springtails, are only a few millimeters long and are typically overlooked by most people, yet can be brilliantly colorful.”

What’s changed since the beginning?

Peter Swan

“When I first started with macro photography, I was photographing subjects using natural light with a non-stabilized macro lens. To get sharp enough photos, I wasn’t stopping down enough to achieve adequate depth of field, and I was frequently shooting at very high ISO, so the detail wasn’t there.

Upgrading to a stabilized lens helped somewhat, but what really made a difference was when I started to use diffused flash. This is not harmful to the insects while allowing the use of a low ISO and a deeper depth of field to get more of the subject in focus. I initially made my own simple flash diffuser using a transparent folder with white paper glued to it before buying a custom-made one (Cygnustech) after seeing the results other people were getting with theirs.

The next steps for me would be to become more proficient in focus stacking; however, this requires a lot of time and patience (some stacks require 50+ shots) and, ideally, your subject to remain still for a few seconds. My photo of a very accommodating cellar spider in my house involved 15 images stacked using Zerene.”

What places have helped you to better understand photography?

Peter Swan

“While macro photography can be done anywhere, the best places for biodiversity are dedicated nature reserves. However, if you look closely, you can find minibeasts everywhere. For example, now that I know what to look for, I often see ruby-tailed wasps (some of Britain’s prettiest insects) slowly patrolling the walls outside my house and workplace.

I have had a few memorable experiences when photographing some of Britain’s rarer butterfly species – for example, visiting Arnside Knott in Cumbria to photograph Brown Hairstreaks (Thecla betulae), Hickling Broad in Norfolk to photograph old world swallowtails (Papilio machaon), and Fineshades Wood in Northamptonshire to photograph Purple Emperors (Apatura iris).

Sometimes you go somewhere and spot an interesting species immediately, while at other times this happens at the end of the day when you’re just about to pack up and go back home.”

What would help other photographers zoom in on nature’s tiniest of creatures?

Peter Swan

“Generally, the early morning is the best time for photographing insects before they get a chance to fully warm up. If photographing creatures later in the day, be very patient when sneaking up on them, as many species can be extremely skittish!

One of the most important things is to have a clean background. Sometimes I might gently encourage the subject to walk onto an isolated leaf or stem, helping it stand out nicely. Other useful techniques include the use of diagonals. Having lines (e.g., stems) parallel to the edges of the photo is not ideal, aesthetically.

Find something you enjoy photographing, and get out there with your camera to capture it. Or find something that you don’t usually photograph and give that a try, if not just to help move you outside your comfort zone – you never know, you might prefer that particular genre of photography!”

Peter really enjoyed participating in this spotlight article and would love to hear what you think of his photography and to answer any of your questions in the comments below.

You can check out Peter’s other work at flickr.com.

Editor’s note: This article continues a series, ‘What’s in your bag?’, highlighting DPReview community members, their photography and the gear they depend on. Would you like your photography to be featured in a future installment? Tell us a bit about yourself by filling out this form.

We’ve been running this Question of the week series for over a year now, and yet have not covered the most fundamental, and perhaps most important, question yet… what sparked your interest in getting involved in photography?

Compared to many of our veteran community members, I’m still deep into grasping the finer points of taking great shots with a standalone camera, and I’m still intimidated by what I see as more advanced cameras like the Sony a1 II or Canon’s EOS R1.

For today’s question and related to my journey, I feel that joining the DPReview community was the true spark that led me to take my photography seriously. I couldn’t have gotten this far this fast without your insight. Because of our community’s support for each other, I hope new photographers find their spark here, too.

So, with that said…

What sparked your interest in getting involved in photography?

Drop a reply in the comments section below, and if you’ve got a photo to include from your mentioned forum sections, it may be selected for next week’s showcase article on this topic!

The Canon EOS R8 II adds two of the features that many people felt the original model could have benefited from: an autofocus joystick and in-body image stabilization.

However, as well as making it a better camera, these additions, along with inflation, have made it a more expensive camera, putting it in direct competition with Nikon’s Z5II, which is our current pick of sub-$2000 full-frame cameras.

The Nikon has been on the market longer, so its price has softened a bit, but its list price is within $50 of that of the Canon, so it’s likely they’ll end up costing a similar amount. While the original R8 and, in some places, the original Z5 persist at reduced prices, these are some of the least expensive current models for anyone looking to join a full-frame system and are designed to act as the entry point to this part of the market.

Having used both cameras extensively, we thought we’d look at how they compare and which we think is better.

Headline specs

On paper the core specs of the two cameras are very similar: they have the same-sized sensors with comparable pixel counts, both have image stabilization and both include an AF joystick.

Beyond the core specs, it all becomes a little less clear-cut, with the Canon offering some benefits over the Nikon with regards weight, maximum burst speed and the ability to capture Raw at its fastest burst speeds and in its pre-capture mode. But there are probably more ways in which the Z5II is a stronger camera.

By taking a look at the main differences and when they play a role, it might help you decide which would be the better camera for you.

EVF/LCD

Mitchell Clark

The Nikon has a larger, higher resolution viewfinder than the Canon. The EOS R8 II is built around a smaller viewfinder panel, which is why its resolution is limited to 2.36M dots, which is 1024 x 768px. The Nikon has a larger panel, meaning it can offer higher magnification (a larger view) and 3.69M dot resolution, which equates to 1280 x 960px. This is a 25% increase in linear resolution, which is enough to make the view seem less pixelated, even with the greater magnification. The Nikon’s finder also goes brighter, giving a more realistic preview of highlights.

The Nikon’s rear screen is also a touch larger 3.2″ display with 1024 x 680px resolution, vs the Canon’s 3.0″, 900 x 600px display. The size is likely to make more difference than the roughly 14% difference in linear resolution. Both cameras have fully-articulated displays that hinge to the side.

Mechanical shutters

Another difference is that the Nikon has a full mechanical shutter, whereas the Canon has an electronic first curtain (/mechanical second curtain) shutter. This doesn’t make a huge difference for most real-world shooting, but one difference is that the Nikon can shoot at up to 1/8000 sec shutter speeds, whereas the Canon tops-out a stop earlier than that.

The Canon’s fully electronic shutter mode can go higher than this, but with a readout speed of around 1/70 sec, this can’t be used with flash and risks showing rolling shutter distortion with fast movement and banding with flickering lights.

Twin card slots

Richard Butler

The Nikon has twin SD card slots, while the Canon has just one. This isn’t likely to make a huge difference to any but the most risk-averse photographers. Dual card slots can offer a level of dependability that is essential for professional work, but is more a question of your risk comfort level ranged against your willingness to pay for multiple cards, for most day-to-day photography.

Video

Mitchell Clark

Things are less clear-cut when it comes to video. The Z5II can capture Raw video which might, if you’re from a photo background, sound like an immediate win for the Nikon. But, in practice, this generates a lot of data, requires a rather more involved workflow and doesn’t offer the same magnitude of benefit over 10-bit log footage as Raw does over JPEG, in stills.

By contrast, the Canon can record 4K/60, derived from 6K, full-width capture, whereas the Nikon has to crop in to an APS-C region, if you want to shoot footage for slow-mo moments. This makes it harder to maintain a wide angle-of-view and lowers quality on the Nikon. Both cameras shoot 10-bit log, with Canon’s C-Log3 being preferred by many editors.

Battery life

However, battery life is a much more decisive difference between the cameras. The Z5II uses the same 16Wh battery as the Z6 series modes, powering it to a rating of 350 shots per charge if you shoot using the rear screen or 330 if you use the viewfinder. The Canon uses a much smaller 7.5Wh battery, from which it delivers a rated lifespan of 270 and 150 shots per charge, for using the rear screen and viewfinder, respectively.

And, while the numbers that the standard testing offers up aren’t necessarily exactly those you’ll see in the real world, we’d generally expect a camera that measures as 330 shots per charge to last around twice as long as one rated at 150. The video ratings are also a little over twice as high for the Nikon. For anyone looking to use the camera for more than occasional snaps, this difference is likely to be very noticeable.

It’s one of the factors that makes the Nikon appreciably heavier, though, weighing in at 700g (24.7oz), making it 154g (5.4oz) heavier than the Canon.

Lens choice

Mitchell Clark

The final consideration is lens choice. Given all modern ILCs sit somewhere between ‘really quite good’ and ‘excellent,’ the availability of appropriate lenses is just as important as your choice of camera brand.

Both Canon and Nikon have built out fairly extensive lens lineups with a selection of low, mid and high-level lenses, in a good array of sizes and focal lengths. However, both have also tried to restrict access to their mounts to their own lenses plus a handful of lenses they’ve licensed third-parties to make: the majority of which are for APS-C models, but with some of Tamron’s full-frame options available for Nikon. The biggest difference, in this regard, is that unlicensed third party makers are offering increasing numbers of lenses for the Nikon Z-mount, whereas Canon has more effectively controlled the RF ecosystem.

In both instances, we’d recommend checking whether the lenses you think you might want exist at a price you’re willing to pay. And to check reports and reviews, if those lenses are made by third parties, as the autofocus performance in particular can vary significantly even within the same brand.

Summary

There are the hints the Canon has tried to make the EOS R8 II easier to use, with its Advanced Assist mode that is willing to automatically use multi-shot modes, where necessary, and the option of a simplified, results-focused Raw processing interface. However, the Z5II does have a button for directly accessing its Picture Control color modes, whereas the Canon has two distinct color systems, one of which can’t be accessed when shooting Raws, so in some ways the Nikon can be easier to use. The Canon’s menu is perhaps a tiny bit more logically grouped, but both are a little overwhelmed with options and will take a little time to learn.

Overall, the EOS R8 II and Z5II both offer a level of image quality and performance that you couldn’t previously get at this price and will be more than enough camera for a lot of photographers, even if inflation means they’re not quite the obvious bargains that their predecessors were.

Three of the most capable full-frame mirrorless cameras ever made are now selling used for less than many new APS-C bodies. The Sony a7 III, Canon EOS R6 and Nikon Z6 II have each dropped into a used-market price range that puts full-frame image quality, in-body stabilization and mature lens ecosystems within reach of photographers who previously had to settle for a crop-sensor body. If you shoot stills seriously and have been waiting for a sensible entry point into full-frame mirrorless, that moment has arrived.

Why used full-frame makes sense right now

When Sony, Canon and Nikon each released successor bodies — the a7 IV, EOS R6 Mark II and Z6 III — used prices on the previous generation fell sharply. That generational turnover created a tier of cameras that carry full-frame sensors, weather sealing and professional-grade autofocus, but now compete on price with upper-tier APS-C cameras sold new. DPReview’s own reviews awarded each of these three bodies a Gold Award or better at launch, and the sensor performance, dynamic range and low-light capability documented in those reviews have not changed because a newer model exists. For budget-conscious photographers willing to buy used, the value equation has shifted decisively in their favor.

The picks

The cameras on this list share four qualities: image quality that DPR reviews confirmed outperforms most APS-C alternatives, a lens ecosystem deep enough to serve photographers for years, consistent availability at MPB, and feature sets that will not feel obsolete quickly. Bodies that are scarce in used channels, or that require expensive proprietary adapters to access a meaningful lens selection, were set aside.

MPB

Sony Alpha a7 III

• Starts at $634

The Sony a7 III remains the broadest recommendation. Its 24MP back-illuminated full-frame sensor, in-body image stabilization and 693-point phase-detection autofocus system — specs that DPReview called class-leading at the camera’s launch — still hold up against current APS-C competition. Sony’s E-mount is the most mature mirrorless ecosystem available, with native lenses from Sony and third-party options from Sigma, Tamron and others. Photographers who want the widest lens selection at every price point will find more choices here than on any other platform — making the a7 III the pick for shooters who value flexibility above all.

MPB

Canon EOS R6

• Starts at $1,339

The Canon EOS R6 makes the strongest case for sports and wildlife shooters. Its 20MP full-frame sensor is paired with Canon’s Dual Pixel CMOS AF system, which the DPReview Canon EOS R6 review found to be among the most reliable subject-tracking systems tested at the time. The R6 also offers 12 fps mechanical and 20 fps electronic burst shooting. The RF lens ecosystem has grown quickly, and photographers already invested in EF glass will find the EF-EOS R adapter a reliable bridge to the new mount.

Nikon Z6 II

• Starts at $519

The Nikon Z6 II is the pick for photographers who value balanced stills-and-video capability and want access to Nikon’s Z-mount optics, which are widely praised for their optical quality. The Z6 II’s 24MP sensor, dual card slots and 4K video output made it one of the more versatile hybrid bodies in its class. The DPReview Nikon Z6 II review noted its improved buffer depth over the original Z6 and its reliable Eye-detect autofocus. Nikon’s FTZ adapter also allows the full Nikkor F-mount back-catalogue to be used without optical compromise, giving former Nikon DSLR owners an especially smooth transition.

What you give up vs. current-gen bodies

None of these cameras match their successors in every area. The a7 III’s autofocus, while capable, does not reach the subject-recognition sophistication of the a7 IV. The original EOS R6 lacks the 40 fps burst and improved stabilization of the Mark II. The Z6 II’s video feature set is more limited than the Z6 III’s. Where the trade-off is clearly worth accepting: if your shooting is primarily stills-focused, if you do not require the most aggressive burst rates, and if image quality rather than the latest processing features is your priority, the gap between these cameras and their successors is narrow in practice and wide in price. Where it matters more: working videographers and sports photographers who push frame rates and rely on the newest subject-recognition modes will feel the difference.

Availability and pricing on the used market

All three bodies are regularly listed in multiple condition grades on MPB, which grades cameras by cosmetic and functional condition and backs all purchases with a 6-month warranty. Buying from a structured used platform rather than a private seller reduces the risk of receiving a body with undisclosed wear or shutter count issues. Stock turns over frequently for all three models, making them practical targets rather than aspirational ones. Check listings regularly, since condition grades affect price meaningfully and a ‘Good’ grade body in full working order will cost less than an ‘Excellent’ example of the same camera.

For photographers ready to move from APS-C to full-frame, the Sony a7 III, Canon EOS R6 and Nikon Z6 II each represent a documented, tested path to a significant image-quality step up — at prices that, a few years ago, would have been unthinkable for cameras of this capability.