Jungle specter: Photographing critically-endangered primates in the jungles of Vietnam
I've been passionate about primates ever since I started shooting wildlife. I think it's mainly because of how similar they are to us humans – and so different at the same time. If you've ever looked a gorilla in the eye, I'm sure you'd agree.
Primates are very diverse: from the pygmy mouse lemur weighing 30g (1oz) to gorillas weighing over 200kg (441lbs). From solitary male orangutans patrolling their jungle territories to 800-strong Gelada baboon troops. And from the millions of extremely adaptable Rhesus macaques to some extremely rare, critically endangered primates, which are the subject of this article.
Vietnam is home to some of the rarest primate species in the world. Primates whose habitats have been quietly destroyed by human expansion and whose numbers have been ravaged by hunting have, in recent decades, finally gotten formal government protection programs, and are slowly making a comeback from the brink of extinction.
Some species, such as the Cat Ba langur, had fewer than 50 individuals in the year 2000, which makes scientists doubtful whether they could ever form a viable population again. Cat Ba langurs currently number around 91 (mid-2025 estimate), which is an improvement but still not even close to anything resembling a healthy population.
My love for primates, together with Vietnam's amazing biodiversity, has made me visit the country several times in the last decade for primate photography. My first love was perhaps the most easily-loved primate in Vietnam: the red-shanked douc, a species many would crown the most beautiful primate in the world. With its seven-colored body and sometimes comical behavior, one can easily understand why it's considered a national treasure.
Then came other species. I especially enjoyed shooting the yellow-cheeked gibbons in the south of Vietnam, and the Delacour's langur and aforementioned Cat Ba langurs, close to Hanoi in the north. After shooting the species on my own, I guided a primate photography workshop earlier this year, which is where the real story begins.
The workshop was fun and productive. With wildlife, it's very common that you get better results with some species and worse with others, and luckily, I got better results with the species I didn't have great shots of, and lesser results with the species I already have good shots of in my portfolio.
The yellow-cheeked gibbons really played along this time. Gibbons are notoriously hard to shoot since they dwell high up in the trees, but this time we were fortunate to have them enveloped in beautiful foliage and huddled together in larger groups, which naturally made for nicer images. I intentionally overexposed some of the images to create a high-key look. Something about the very bright foliage encompasses the beauty of Asia in my eyes.
We then flew all the way up to Hanoi, Vietnam's capital, and drove to Van Long National Park to shoot the elusive Delacour's langur. With only several hundred individuals left in the entire species, this langur is extremely endangered and thus highly monitored and protected. It's also notoriously shy and skittish, making it tough to photograph. But miraculously, we got some (relatively) close-up action, and got to photograph the langur parkouring in its sharp, rocky habitat.
By the way, this langur has the longest tail of any langur species, pretty amazing. Oh, and how about those fancy pants?
Upon finishing the workshop, I said goodbye to the group and welcomed a friend who came for the experience that was about to follow. Ever since I shot my first Vietnamese primates, I was drawn to one very special species that eluded me again and again due to random constraints and problems. This time, I finally got the opportunity and did a week's trek to Khau Ca, a national park hidden deep in the forests of northern Vietnam, to shoot the ultra-rare Tonkin snub-nosed monkey.
One of only five snub-nosed monkey species in the world, the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey is the rarest and most definitely the hardest to see and photograph. It has black and white fur, a pink nose and lips, and blue patches around the eyes. It is found at elevations from 200 to 1,200 meters (700 to 3,900 feet) on fragmentary patches of forest on craggy limestone areas, which is one of the reasons it's so hard to find.
"The Tonkin snub-nosed monkey is the rarest and most definitely the hardest to see and photograph."
First described in 1912, the monkey was rediscovered in 1989. In 2008, fewer than 250 individuals were thought to exist. The species is the subject of very intense conservation efforts by Vietnamese authorities and international groups such as Fauna & Flora International, which has been focused on making an impact on the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey population, and has been working with local communities to spread awareness about the species and monitor its habitat.
Tucked away deep in the jungle and as shy as they come, this species requires a special photography permit and a very uncomfortable trek to be able to shoot it. Getting to base camp was a 2.5-hour climb, and from there it was the beginning of a week-long routine. Every day we hiked in a very challenging forest environment to a starting point from which we'd wait for word from the trackers, and if they got sight of the monkey, the real hiking would begin.
Balancing on sharp rocks and on fallen tree trunks, this hike was no picnic, especially if you're not too quick or agile, like me. Add to that the fact that the camp offered absolutely zero comfort (I'm talking no chairs, no tables, sleep on the floor type of camp), and we end up with the hardest trekking I've done in decades.
But then, while hiking for the fourth time, I noticed an increasing sense of excitement from our team. My guide triumphantly declared that they had sight of the monkeys. We started hiking again, climbing on steep rocks while trying to ignore the dangers, as our team jumped on the rocks like they were trampolines in an amusement park. With their kind help, I finally got to a viewpoint from where the group of monkeys could be seen.
A small group of 20-30 individuals, including adults, juveniles and tiny babies, emerged and began interacting and jumping between the trees. They were far away, and getting any closer to them would be far beyond my climbing and balancing abilities. I had to use the farthest telephoto setting I had: the Canon 100-500mm plus a 1.4x teleconverter.
Over about half an hour or so, I managed to get several family shots, a few nice action shots, some with multiple monkeys, mothers carrying babies and even an alpha male threatening us by exposing his teeth.
The shooting was extremely hard as I had to balance myself on sharp rocks throughout its duration. If I fell, the best result would be a broken leg, but the team took incredible care of me and kept me safe when jumping between the steep ledges. This was an adventure I will not be repeating anytime soon!
If you're very adventurous and have a good sense of balance, I recommend this experience. Shooting the Tonkin snub-nosed monkeys makes you part of a very exclusive club, as very few people venture there. That said, I must admit that there are trips that offer far better result/effort ratios: all of the other species mentioned above are far easier to get to and to shoot, and I highly recommend visiting Vietnam and witnessing their beauty for yourself.
Erez Marom is a professional nature photographer, guide and traveller. You can follow Erez's work on Instagram and Facebook, and subscribe to his mailing list for updates.
Erez has recently published his first e-book, "Solving the Puzzle", thoroughly explaining his views about composition in landscape photography and beyond.
If you'd like to experience and shoot some of the world's most fascinating landscapes and wildlife with Erez as your guide, take a look at his unique photography workshops in Zambia, Greenland, Ethiopia, Colombia, Vietnam, Madagascar and more.
Selected Articles by Erez Marom:
- Lava Frenzy: Shooting Fagradalsfjall Volcano
- Behind the Shot: Tambora Sandwich
- Parallelism in Landscape Photography
- Black Hole Sun: Shooting the Total Solar Eclipse in Argentina
- Winds of Change: Shooting Changing landscapes
- Demon of the Deep: Shooting Kawah Ijen Volcano
- Shooting Kīlauea Volcano, Part 1: How to Melt a Drone
- Whatever It Doesn't Take