The Fujifilm X half is a JPEG-only compact camera with a fixed focal length and a vertically orientated sensor, designed to mimic the experience of shooting with a half-frame film camera. It prioritises fun over technical excellence.

Key features

• Vertical 18MP, 8.8 x 11.7mm CMOS sensor
• 32mm equiv F2.8 lens
• JPEG-only output
• 2-in-1 mode combining sequential shots into a 3:2 image
• Tunnel-style optical viewfinder
• Film Camera mode simulates the film camera experience
• 10 Film Simulations, 18 Filters
• Twin touchscreen interface
• Date stamp option
• 880 shot per charge rating when using OVF
• 'Film advance' lever
• Direct printing to Instax printers
• UHS-I SD card slot

The obvious reference point will, no doubt, be Fujifilm's own X100 series cameras, and we doubt Fujifilm will dislike the comparison, given their popularity. But, whereas the X100 cameras look a lot like miniature Leicas, the cute, boxy X half looks more like a Rollei 35.

The X half will have a recommended price of $849 and will be available in black, charcoal or silver. There's no obvious precedent for a camera like this and the uncertainty around the cost of importing items from China into the US makes it a little hard to make sense of, but it seems like a lot for a camera that's putting more effort into being fun than functional.

Index:

• What is it?
• Body and handling
• Initial impressions
• Sample gallery
• Specifications
• Press release

What is it?

The Fujifilm X half is a fixed-lens camera built around an 8.8 x 11.3mm sensor. Those dimensions may not sound familiar but it's essentially a 4:3 crop from a 20MP 3:2 Type 1 sensor, turned on its side.

So, when Fujifilm talks in terms of half frame, it's talking about the 3:4 shooting experience you get from shooting half a frame of 135 film, not about mimicking the same capture area that would give.

It has a 10.8mm F2.8 prime lens, and that sensor's 2.94x crop factor means this gives a 32mm equivalent field of view and an F8.2-equiv maximum aperture.

Flicking the film advance lever just after you've taken a shot (or when you're reviewing an image in playback mode) lets you combine that shot with the next one you take. Left image: Provia film sim | F2.8 | 1/800 sec | ISO 200 Right image: Provia film sim | F2.8 | 1/1600 sec | ISO 200 Photos: Richard Butler

You can shoot individual 3:4 vertical images, swiping on the Film Simulation window on the back of the camera to change your virtual film stock. Alternatively, if you flick the film advance lever after taking a shot, you can combine your previous and next images to create a side-by-side diptych. Both individual images are saved to the memory card, in addition to the combined version.

Film Camera mode

The X half is best understood through its Film Camera mode. Engage the mode and you'll be asked how many exposures you want on your virtual film: 36, 54 or 72. If those second two numbers look unfamiliar, remember that this is styling itself as a half-frame camera, so you can fit 72 shots on a '36 exposure' film.

"Once you start shooting, you'll have to use the film advance lever after each shot: the camera won't take another photo until you do"

When in film camera mode, you lose the live view on the back of the camera and have to compose via the optical viewfinder. You also lose the ability to swipe to change Film Simulation or filter: you're using a single roll of 'film,' after all.

And, once you start shooting, you'll have to remember to use the film advance lever after each shot: the camera won't take another photo until you do.

Once you've taken all your photos, you can connect your camera to the app and transfer the photos, at which point you get to see a contact sheet and watch the images 'develop.' That contact sheet image, complete with sprocket holes, frame numbering (with the images numbered as 01, 01A, 02, 02A and so forth), can also be downloaded.

If you lose interest in a project before the end of the roll, you can double-tap the film window screen and the camera will 'rewind' the roll, leaving you with a partially-complete film strip. Fujifilm also warns that removing the memory card or the battery can result in film camera mode being abandoned.

Filters and Film Simulations

One of the X half's main selling points is likely to be Fujifilm's film simulation modes, and the camera includes ten of the most popular ones.

The X half also has a range of Filter modes, including Toy Camera, Vignetting, Light Leak, Halation and Expired Film. These give more extreme looks than the film simulations, but include some fun options such as giving the expired film mode a green or red tint, or the light leak mode that applies a one of a selection red/yellow bursts across each image at random, which are only visible in the final image. Filters can't be combined with Film Simulation modes.

ISO and Autofocus

The camera's base ISO is 200 and there are three pre-defined Auto ISO settings, you choice is essentially whether the camera stops at ISO 800, 3200 or 12,800.

In terms of autofocus, you have a choice of two AF area modes: a large central point or an AF area that can be moved to one of nine positions. There are eye and face detection options on top of this, and the camera will prioritize faces in your scene, regardless of the AF position.

Autofocus is somewhat laggy and distinctly slow, though, so we found the camera to be much more dependable in AF-S mode. This is not a camera for action or moving subjects, really.

Video

The X half can shoot up to 1080/24 footage at up to 50Mbps, captured in a 3:2, 1080 x 1440 format. It can also shoot 2x slowmo footage. These video clips can be combined with still images in 2-in-1 diptychs, output as 2160 x 1440px MOV files. There's a 3.5mm-to-USB-C lead in the box, but this is for attaching headphones (?!?) rather than an external mic, as is the case on other Fujifilm models.

Body and handling

The X half is small, boxy and really rather cute: both its size and looks attract attention. It's also pretty well built. It feels like a lot of it is plastic but it's thick enough that the camera doesn't feel flimsy. It's small enough to fit in a coat pocket, despite the protruding lens.

The lens has an aperture ring around it, controllable in whole stops and with an 'A' position at one end, passing control back to the camera body. There is no other control dial on the camera, so there's no way to gain 1/3EV control of the aperture.

The camera's shutter tops out at 1/2000 sec, so in bright light you'll need to remember to stop down; especially if you're using the viewfinder, where there's nothing to indicate that your shots will be overexposed.

The lens is covered with a soft plastic lens cap. It's not the prettiest or most convenient feature, but ends up highlighting a benefit to the lens design: it doesn't change length. As such you never have to worry about stripping the gears or damaging a motor if you turn the camera on in your pocket or with the cap still attached.

The top of the camera is decidedly simple: a large exposure comp dial, that photo advance lever and an power switch, which releases the level from its stowed position. There's also a cold shoe slot in the middle of the camera. We're not really sure why.

The whimsy continues on the back, with a film-window-style rounded LCD panel that displays the currently active Film Simulation mode or Filter effect. It's a touchscreen, so you can swipe up or down to change mode (unless you're in Film Camera mode).

Next to this is the main display, a small, portrait-orientation 2.4" 640 x 480px touchscreen. In regular shooting mode this shows a live view display, just as you'd expect. Swiping your finger across the screen brings up one of four menus.

Swipe right

Swipe down	Swipe right	Swipe up	Swipe left

Swiping down gives you the choice between connecting to a smartphone and entering Film Camera mode.

Swiping right lets you select whether you're in Film Simulation or Filter mode. There are icons at the bottom of the screen to let you determine which of these modes applies to stills or video shooting. You don't select which of the simulations of filters you're using, just which mode the camera is in.

Swiping up brings up a quick menu, detailing eight of the camera's core settings:

Finally, swiping left brings up the camera's main menu. It's a much-simplified variant of the one from other Fujifilm cameras, divided up into seven catagories: Shooting settings, Movie settings, IQ settings, AF/MF settings, Audio settings, Set up and Networking/USB settings. These catagories are navigated by swiping up and down on the film window, next to the main LCD.

The film advance lever

One of the only physical controls on the whole camera is the film advance lever. In normal camera mode its job is to engage 2-in-1 diptych mode, in Film Camera mode it acts as the film advance lever it mimics. Push the lever in towards the body in normal shooting mode and the camera will show you the last image you took, while the lever is held in. Again, we're not entirely sure why.

Battery

The X half takes the same NP-W126S battery as Fujifilm's other small cameras. It's a relatively large battery for such a small camera, making up something like 1/7th of the camera's volume. This helps power the camera to a rating of 880 shots per charge, if you use the OVF. We've not seen a figure for shooting with live view.

This is enough that you'll essentially never have to worry about charging the battery. The camera can charge over its USB-C socket, so all you need to do is remember to plug it in from time-to-time.

Initial impressions

The Fujifilm X half is, objectively, a profoundly silly camera. It is, after all, a digital camera with a film advance lever. But that's not to say it's a joke, necessarily.

Whether you think the X half is cute and fun or utterly ridiculous is likely to come down to what you think of its Film Camera mode. If you like the creative challenge and playfulness of a mode where you have to shoot a whole virtual roll's worth of images before 'developing' them on your phone, then you might well really enjoy the X half.

If you find the idea preposterous, worry about it only being able to produce JPEGs, or find yourself thinking 'it's basically half of Four Thirds, doesn't that make it 1/8th frame?' then it's fair to say this isn't the camera for you.

Even without using Film Camera mode, the ability to combine images (with a choice of dividers and widths) prompts you to think about pairs of images that will go well together. Left image: Provia film sim | F2.8 | 1/125 sec | ISO 640 Right image: Provia film sim | F2.8 | 1/125 sec | ISO 640 Photos: Richard Butler

The X half will inevitably ride on the coat-tails of the hugely successful X100 series, but whereas that camera was beloved both by established photographers and newcomers enraptured by its stylish aesthetic and attractive color response; the X half's pull is likely to be much stronger for the latter group.

"Expecting you to crank the non-existent film forward is inherently ridiculous, but entertainingly so"

The pictures aren't great and the camera is distinctly laggy in most of the things it does. If you're coming from a modern mirrorless camera, it might be a bit of a shock. If you've been buying old compacts on eBay, you'll probably feel right at home. And it seems likely that this is the intended audience for this camera: someone who appreciates a small camera with a sense of fun.

Because yes, the Film Camera mode is fun. Expecting you to crank the non-existent film forward is inherently ridiculous, but entertainingly so. Likewise the idea of a retro-feeling compact camera that can deliver Fujifilm's Film Simulation colors is a delightful prospect, even with the X half's drawbacks.

It's hard to get a sense, from pictures, of just how small the X half is. It's not much bigger than the palm of my hand.

Our main concern is the price, though. Even after a surge of inflation that's left us all a little unsure how much our money is now worth, $849 feels like a lot for something so playfully flirting with frivolity. And, on our production camera, albeit with non-final firmware, the lagginess and autofocus speed risks taking some of that joy out of the experience.

The X half doesn't take itself too seriously, and that doesn't in itself make it a joke, but we worry its price tag risks being a punch-line that falls rather flat.

Sample gallery

Please do not reproduce any of these images on a website or any newsletter/magazine without prior permission (see our copyright page). We make the originals available for private users to download to their own machines for personal examination or printing (in conjunction with this review); we do so in good faith, so please don't abuse it.

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The new Kase 85mm f/1.4 AF lens for Sony E-mount is now in stock at Amazon.

The Nikon Z-mount is available for sale on eBay.

Additional information on the new Kase 85mm f/1.4 AF lens:

New: Kase 85mm f/1.4 lens for Sony E/Nikon Z mount

Four new Chinese lenses coming soon

The post Now available: Kase 85mm f/1.4 AF lens for Nikon Z and Sony E mount appeared first on Photo Rumors.

Photo: Mitchell Clark

On the surface, Fujifilm's recently announced X-E5 looks like a very familiar setup in a new body. Its combination of 40MP BSI CMOS sensor and processor has shown up in several previous Fujifilm cameras, such as the X-T5, X-T50, X-H2 and X100VI. Theoretically, that means it should provide very similar results, but since we like to be thorough, we put a production copy in front of our test scene so we could make sure.

Our test scene is designed to simulate a variety of textures, colors, and detail types you'll encounter in the real world. It also has two illumination modes, full even light and low directional light, to see the effect of different lighting conditions.

As expected, the X-E5's Raw detail capture is identical to Fujifilm's other 40MP cameras, and it outperforms the 24MP Nikon Z5II and 26MP Sony a6700. Its images also have more detail than those from its 26MP predecessor, the X-E4.

Its base ISO noise performance is on par with the rest of the current-gen APS-C competition, and it's a bit cleaner than the X-E4; no surprise, given that its base ISO is 125 while its predecessors was 160. The full-frame Z5II, however, provides around a stop improvement in noise, which follows its increased sensor area.

These trends continue at mid to high ISOs, and the X-E5's lead in detail slips away past around ISO 1600.

The camera's JPEG engine isn't quite as good as its competitors at emphasizing fine details, even at base ISOs, so its lead isn't as apparent as it is in Raw. However, it continues Fujifilm's tradition of offering pleasing colors and does a decent job of retaining details even while reducing noise at higher ISOs, though its performance does suffer a bit in low-contrast areas.

Dynamic Range

This sensor has always offered excellent dynamic range with low read noise, and it's no different in the X-E5.

Exposure Latitude | ISO Invariance

This means it offers plenty of room to bring up shadows in post, so you can make the most of its maximum dynamic range at base ISO. Its design also lets you choose to extend dynamic range when shooting in low-light scenes, as long as you're willing to use a lower ISO to reduce blown highlights.

As expected, the X-E5 doesn't offer anything new in terms of image quality, though that's not necessarily a bad thing. Fujifilm's current generation of cameras have long been strong contenders in that department, and if you're trying to decide between them you only have to consider form factor and feature sets. If you don't prefer the rangefinder-styling, you're not giving up image quality by going with an X-T50 or X-T5 instead.

You can use the coupon code "RUMORS" to receive 5% off select IDS Works accessories for Sony, Fujifilm, Hasselblad, and Leica cameras (Initial Design Studio). Minimum purchase of USD100 required. Limited to one use per customer with code "RUMORS":

Check the IDS Works website for the latest accessories. Previous IDS Works product coverage can be found here:

IDSworks announced a new modular base plate and L-bracket for Sony cameras

IDSworks announced new modular base plate and L-bracket for Hasselblad X2D cameras

Just announced: IDSworks grip for the new Fuji X100VI camera

IDS Works released a new modular grip + base plate for the Fujifilm GFX100RF camera

New: IDSworks modular base plate and L-bracket attachment for Fujifilm GFX series

The post 5% off coupon code on IDS Works accessories for Sony, Fujifilm, Hasselblad, and Leica cameras appeared first on Photo Rumors.

In addition to the official online store and B&H Photo, ArtraLab lenses are now also available for sale on Amazon:

Previous coverage of ArtraLab lenses can be found here, here, and here:

Artralab Noxika 28mm f/2.8 full-frame limited-edition lens for Nikon Z-mount now open for pre-order

ArtraLab announced a new WCL+ Macro 25mm wide conversion lens for Fujifilm X100 cameras

ArtraLab announced a new Nonikkor 11mm f/1.8 lens for Nikon Z + Fuji X mount priced at $330

The Artralab 35mm f/1.4 “Steel Rim” lens for Leica M-Mount is now back in stock

The post ArtraLab lenses are now available for sale on Amazon appeared first on Photo Rumors.

One of the great things about photography is how diverse the medium is. There are countless subjects and genres to focus on, offering opportunities for everyone to create images with their unique perspective. That's no different here at DPReview. Our photographic experiences and styles vary greatly, with each of using finding photography in different ways. We've previously shared what gear we take when traveling, but today, we're giving you a look into the genres and subjects that drive each of us.

Mitchell Clark

Someone didn't read the sign. Photo: Mitchell Clark

I'm not entirely sure what to call my favorite genre of photography, but I always love capturing things that are out of place or in some other way ironic. Think a "no graffiti" sign in front of a thoroughly tagged wall, a drinking cup precariously perched on a piece of architecture or a machine that's obviously malfunctioned.* Essentially, it's anything that makes you tilt your head and go "huh!"

Graffiti and a piece of electrical equipment? My lucky day. Photo: Mitchell Clark

A close second: infrastructure. High-tension power lines are one of my favorite subjects for reasons unknowable even to myself, but I'm also fond of capturing pipes, wires, pumps, junction boxes and the million other often-overlooked pieces of equipment that help our world run the way it does.

* Of particular interest: public displays or checkout stands whose computers have obviously crashed.

Richard Butler

My first 'ask someone if I can take their photo' portrait. Photo: Richard Butler

The need to constantly shoot images for galleries means it's difficult to find the time to develop any sort of specialism. I never know what sort of camera or lens I'll be using next, so it's hard to focus on one particular style, genre or technique. However, I have developed a real enthusiasm for everyday portraits. It started with a camera launch in New York, during which I had a couple of hours to shoot as varied a gallery as possible. Eventually, I plucked up the courage to ask a stranger if they'd mind me taking their photo and, amazingly, they said yes.

Photo: Richard Butler

I still have an awful lot to learn and am always looking for an opportunity to practice, but I love the fact that a lot of portraiture has nothing at all to do with gear or technical knowledge: it's about your interaction with the subject. I was first drawn to photography because it combined the technical, which I can just learn with the aesthetic, where there's always room to improve. Ad hoc portraiture is a great example of that, and there's nothing more satisfying than a subject you don't know emailing you back to say that they like the shot you took.

Matt Waller

Photo: Matt Waller

My love of photography started late in life, meaning I'm still in the phase of bouncing around and trying different genres. But the main driver for me has been black-and-white street photography. Certainly, this has taken my wandering feet to far-flung cities and even a couple of workshops (which incidentally I recommend as a great way to explore a city and meet like-minded souls).

At home in Seattle, my work for DPReview is part-time, and my second job, in a downtown skyscraper office, led me to find a weird street photography outlet of taking telephoto shots downward of roofs, streets and alleys. Is this a sub-genre? Do any other frustrated office-bound photographers do this?

Photo: Matt Waller

Speaking of my telephoto lens, I've put it to more traditional use by dabbling in bird photography. I find this a great way to get out into nature and a fun (and very challenging) form of photography.

Finally, in the last few years, I've started doing some corporate event photography. Though this obviously has "third job" potential, I think I want to keep my photography on the amateur side – so I can keep bouncing around and trying different genres!

Dale Baskin

The aurora borealis reflects off a lake in Canada's Northwest Territories. Photo: Dale Baskin

As a photographer, I've captured nearly everything under the sun, but my favorite subject reveals itself at night: the aurora borealis. I've been photographing the aurora from northern latitudes for over a decade, and I never tire of seeing Mother Nature's own fireworks. The sheer variety of shapes, patterns and colors never ceases to amaze me. There's only one thing I love more than shooting the aurora: taking other photographers on the adventure and teaching them how to shoot it, too.

While the northern lights are a passion of mine, I've recently been drawn to photographing something entirely different: rodeo. I'll let you in on a little secret – getting good photos of riders in a rodeo arena isn't that hard. With a fast telephoto lens, a camera with a fast burst rate and a clear sightline, you're bound to get some keepers.

A cowboy tries to mount a restless bronco at a small town rodeo in western Montana. Photo: Dale Baskin

However, I quickly discovered that the real story of rodeo isn't in the center of the arena, but in places that spectators don't usually get to see. So instead, I started using a wide-angle lens, working behind the scenes to capture the soul of the rodeo, like riders prepping for their events, rodeo clowns applying makeup or cowboys just hanging out and trading stories.

However, my favorite place to shoot is right up against the chutes, the small pens where riders saddle up for their eight seconds of insanity. Working just inches from a snorting bull or a kicking bronco, you feel a sense of raw power, and the explosion of energy as a rider bursts out of the gate can almost knock you off your feet. It's the most intense, adrenaline-pumping photography I've ever done. And I'm absolutely hooked.

Abby Ferguson

My graduate thesis involved multiple exposure images of staged still life scenes. These were then printed on transparency film and either mounted to plexiglass or suspended from the ceiling on red string. Photo: Abby Ferguson

If you had asked me this question a few years ago, I would have been able to answer easily. Yes, like most photographers, I've shot a wide range of genres. However, for a very long time, I focused my personal work on conceptual still life imagery, either found or staged. My graduate thesis was entirely still life related, and that subject, along with light and shadow, remained important to me for a long time.

Lately, though, I've been going through a bit of a crisis with my photography, and identifying a clear genre is more difficult. I haven't been photographing many formal still life scenes, partly due to space constraints, partly due to motivation. My conceptual work has also largely fallen by the wayside (though I've had the itch to pick it back up). Instead, my photography has been a lot less focused on one specific area as of late.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

Light and shadow remain favorite subjects though. I love capturing unique natural light on small, often overlooked details no matter the genre. If those details are broken things, like shattered glass or a rundown building, even better. So while I don't necessarily find myself gravitating towards a clear, well-defined genre these days, I do still see a consistent thread throughout much of my work.

Here are some newly leaked pictures and detailed specifications of the upcoming DJI Osmo 360 camera that is expected to be officially announced on July 29 (previous coverage  can be found here):

• Revolutionary 8K 360° Camera
• 1-Inch 360° Imaging
• Stunning Low-Light Performance
• Camera type: 360 Camera
• Definition: 8K (UHD)
• Sensor: CMOS (1 inch)
• MegaPixels (Sensor Resolution): 120 Million pixels
• Video resolution: 4K/120 fps
• Camera functionality Waterproof, Photo Mode, Image Stabilizer
• Wireless communications Wi-Fi 6.0
• Memory card format Micro SDHD
• Video Recording Formats: 4K, 2.7K, Full HD 1080p
• Screen resolution: 314 x 556
• Screen size in cm: 5.08 cm
• 10-Bit D-Log M
• Native 8K 360° Video
• Direct Microphone Connection via OsmoAudio
• 4K/120fps Video with 170° Ultra-Wide Angle
• Gesture and Voice Control
• Magnetic Quick-Release Osmo Ecosystem
• Third-Party Sports Data Integration
• Invisible Selfie Stick
• High Frame Rate 360° Video
• Extended Runtime
• HorizonSteady 360°

More leaked DJI Osmo 360 camera pictures

More DJI Osmo 360 camera leaks

DJI Osmo 360 camera mockup and size comparisons

Coming soon: new DJI Osmo 360 camera

Via dronexl

The post The DJI Osmo 360 camera is rumored to be announced on July 29 appeared first on Photo Rumors.

B&H Photo is now selling used Fujifilm X100VI cameras priced between $1,518-$1,582 (they also have several used X100VI accessories):

First batch of made in Japan silver Fujifilm X100VI cameras now in stock at B&H Photo

The post Used Fujifilm X100VI cameras now available from $1,518-$1,582 appeared first on Photo Rumors.

Here is the next round of upcoming Chinese lenses:

Brightin Star AF 35mm f/1.8 ASPH lens (check website for updates):

Meike AF 24mm f/1.4 lens (check website for updates):

TTartisan will soon announce a new APS-C AF lens for Sony E-mount:

7Artisans will announce a new AF 50mm f/1.8 FE lens:

ZY Optics is expected to announce a new autofocus full-frame lens in the second half of the year:

The post Four new Chinese lenses coming soon appeared first on Photo Rumors.

Here are the top 10 most viewed PhotoRumors posts for June 2025:

The rumored Hasselblad X2D II medium format camera leaked online

DJI Mini 5 Pro drone to be announced next

Fujifilm X-E5 camera with XF 23mm f/2.8 lens leaked on company’s website

Fujifilm X-E5 camera leaked/rumored specifications

Coverage of the 2025 Bild Expo

Leaked: new Tamron 16-30mm f//2.8 Di III VXD G2 lens for Nikon Z/Sony E

This is the upcoming OM System OM-5 II camera: specifications and pictures

Details on the upcoming DJI Osmo Action 6 camera from the FCC filing

New Fujifilm X-E5 camera expected on June 12th

The new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 Di III VXD G2 lens for Nikon Z/Sony E will be priced under €1,000

The post Top 10 most viewed PhotoRumors posts for June 2025 appeared first on Photo Rumors.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

Photographers are often told that they need a specialized camera bag to carry their gear. There's certainly no shortage of options these days, with a long list of brands and styles available. And while it's important to keep your expensive camera gear safe even when out and about, a dedicated camera bag isn't necessarily the only way to do that.

Can you put a camera in a backpack?

A camera insert can allow you to use any backpack as a camera bag. Photo: Abby Ferguson

Simply put, a dedicated camera bag isn't necessary for many people and situations. They are often bulky and heavy. They typically don't work well if you need to bring a lot of things other than camera gear, making them challenging to travel with. They can also be conspicuous, raising the risk of theft. Plus, it can be hard to get the fit right, and spending a lot of money on a bag just to avoid using it because it's uncomfortable is far from ideal.

Most people already have a backpack or bag that they like carrying around, and may have occasionally even used it to carry cameras that have been carefully wrapped in a jacket or other articles of clothing. While we wouldn't recommend that too often, and would strongly advise against just tossing your camera loose inside a pack, the bag you already have could serve your camera bag needs with a simple accessory. Instead of buying a new bag that can only be used with your cameras, you could buy a much more affordable camera insert that goes inside your favorite pack.

Many companies, including Peak Design, Wandrd, Lowepro, and more, make padded inserts allowing you to safely store your camera in any bag. They are easy to move around to different bags as needed, giving you much more flexibility. Plus, you can take it out and use your backpack or bag without any camera gear. Just be sure you aren't packing the insert at the bottom of your bag with a lot of weight on top; they offer padding for protection, but aren't crushproof.

For casual outings when I'm traveling light, a small sling is plenty for my camera. Photo: Abby Ferguson

If you only have a small compact camera, an insert is likely more than you need. As long as you carefully consider where you are packing your camera in your bag, you should be okay without a specific case. Just ensure it won't have too much weight on it and that it won't get hit when setting the bag down or moving around.

When should you use a dedicated camera bag?

For lots of gear, a dedicated camera bag or case is often a must. Photo: Abby Ferguson

Inserts in everyday bags work well for many people, but a dedicated camera bag is a smart move for some. Wedding and event photographers who need multiple bodies and a full kit of lenses, for example, should invest in a camera bag. After all, inserts are generally smaller and not made to handle a lot of gear.

All that gear will also be heavy, and you want a pack that will allow you to distribute the weight well, saving your back over time. Camera backpacks are typically made with that weight in mind (the good ones, at least), making them more comfortable when loaded up. That is especially useful if you'll be wearing the bag for long periods, too.

If you're a professional photographer, you likely need plenty of accessories when you head to shoots as well. You need to find a home for things like extra batteries, filters, a cleaning kit, flash and, of course, snacks. Camera backpacks often have better organization options than standard packs, helping you keep all your gear organized and easy to find.

The back panel on this bag provides faster access to my camera than a typical backpack with an insert would. Photo: Abby Ferguson

Many dedicated camera bags have another advantage over regular bags with inserts: quick access. An insert inside a bag requires you to take the bag off your back and open two things, potentially with some digging involved. Dedicated camera bags, though, typically make it easier to access your gear fast. Some even offer side access to get your camera out without even taking the pack off. So, if you need to keep your camera tucked away but still have easy access, a dedicated camera bag is the way to go.

Consider how you'll be using the bag

Whether or not you need a dedicated camera bag depends on your gear, where you'll be using it and your preferences. For travel and casual day trips, a camera insert in a normal backpack is likely a good move. However, a dedicated, well-designed camera bag will make a significant difference in comfort and organization for those carrying a lot of equipment, especially for long periods.

Additional information on the two upcoming Sony professional video cameras I reported a few days ago:

Sony will release the Z380 in August and a new 12K sensor full-frame interchangeable lens video camera during IBC 2025 in September

Sony Z380

• The Sony Z380 is a newly developed 3CMOS BIONZ XR XDCAM camcorder that features internal variable ND, which supports 4K120p recording in all RGB Tricolor.
• The image quality of the Z380 is significantly higher than that of the Sony Z280, thanks to the BIONZ XR, AI unit, and new high-speed, high-saturation, and high-sensitivity Exmor RS 3CMOS.
• Based on test information, the image quality of the PXW-Z380 is superior to that of the PXW-Z200. It has a low base ISO and a high sensitivity mode ISO, which is consistent with the FX6.
• The Z380's autofocus performance is a vast improvement over the previous generation Z280, relieving the operator of the pressure of focusing and allowing them to shift their attention entirely to composition and following the subject.

Sony FX8

• The New full-frame product, named FX8, will feature a resolution of 12K, which is four times that of the FX9. It uses a 16:9 cropped 12K full-frame (3:2 aspect ratio, 96M total pixels) CMOS image sensor.
• It doesn't have internal RAW or X-OCN recording capabilities. Like the FX6, it outputs full-frame crop 3.8K 16-bit RAW to a third-party recorder via SDI at a maximum of 120fps.
• The only recording format available is XAVC, which offers 8K30p or 4K60p recording in full-frame and S35 modes. And the full-frame crop 3.8K mode provides 4K120p recording.
• The readout specifications are not as good as the URSA Cine 12K, as the processor limits it, but it is still a reliable and easy-to-use camcorder that offers high-speed 4K (for FX6 users) and full-frame/Super35 dual-format 8K30p/4K60p (for FX9 users) for creative freedom.

Sony is rumored to announce two new professional video cameras

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Larval smooth angler fish. Photo: Ryo Minemizu

Underwater photography is a challenging genre to tackle. But the complexity is significantly amplified when you add subjects that are only a few millimeters large, and pitch-black nighttime conditions. Yet that's exactly what photographer and diver Ryo Minemizu is doing with his nighttime dives, also called blackwater dives. Minemizu took the time to answer some questions while on a sailboat in the Pacific Ocean, providing insight into how he captures incredibly unique creatures in the ocean.

When Minemizu started taking photographs while diving, he simply wanted to capture beautiful underwater landscapes and life forms easily visible to the naked eye. Eventually, though, he became more interested in what wasn't obvious, seeking out things that were often overlooked and fleeting moments that didn't get attention. "I was drawn not only to their beauty, but also to the strength and skill required for survival, and the deep significance of life itself," he said.

Polka dot ribbon fish. Photo: Ryo Minemizu

To find those fleeting moments, Minemizu has to dive in locations and times when most aren't venturing into the sea. Night dives opened up a new perspective, allowing him to capture creatures in, quite literally, new light. Minemizu also decided to focus on creatures that don't typically get attention. But that makes for tricky photographic scenarios. "Blackwater dive photography is arguably one of the most challenging and relatively new frontiers in the world of underwater macro photography," he said.

"Blackwater dive photography is arguably one of the most challenging and relatively new frontiers in the world of underwater macro photography"

The dark conditions are perhaps the most obvious challenge. Minemizu says that for blackwater dives, a rope with multiple lights attached is suspended beneath a buoy, but its main purpose is safety-related, not for photography. In fact, "lights suspended from the buoy should be as dim as possible to avoid any negative impact on the natural environment," he explains. Instead, he said that divers mainly search for subjects in complete darkness, only using handheld underwater lights as they find them.

A string of lights hangs from a buoy, but only for safety reasons. Photo: Ryo Minemizu

When it is time to light up a subject, Minemizu relies on five lights: two Marelux Apollo III 2.0 strobes for ultra-high-speed flash photography, two RGBlue (Super Natural Color) lights with high color rendering for use as target lights and for video recording in the dark ocean, and one INON LE-250 light used to illuminate subjects that exhibit phototaxis (when an organism moves in response to light). He uses the maximum flash sync speed to freeze movement, since the tiny creatures are constantly in motion. But it's not a set it and forget it situation. "Both the exposure and flash intensity are manually adjusted on site to suit the transparency of each subject," he explains.

While light is necessary in pitch-dark conditions, it can also have negative impacts. "Each subject has its own unique characteristics and behaviors," Minemizu explained. "For example, some would close their fins and begin to swim away the moment a light is pointed at them or quickly vanish into the darkness." As a result, he has to anticipate the subject's next move, rapidly assess how it will react to light and how it might behave, and make on-the-spot decisions about lighting. "This involves choosing the right color tone, the best angle for illumination and the appropriate light intensity," he said.

The size of his subjects is another significant challenge. Minemizu is primarily focused on photographing plankton, fish larvae and other minuscule creatures that only measure a few millimeters to a few centimeters. To show them at a large enough scale, Minemizu has to get very close to them. But the water between the lens and the subject adds more complexity. "Even small currents created during movement can disturb the subject’s posture, especially when operating near the minimum focusing distance," he explained.

Zoea larva of the scarlet shrimp. Photo: Ryo Minemizu

The constant motion also makes it difficult to find and track subjects. "One of the most important tasks is to find the subject through the viewfinder and keep track of it without losing sight," Minemizu said. To help with that, he explains that a standard macro lens with a shorter focal length (around a 50 to 60mm equiv lens) is more effective than longer lenses. Focus is also a unique challenge. Keeping an animal's eye in focus while it moves around on dry land can be difficult, but imagine keeping that critical focus on a tiny subject floating around in the dark while underwater. After all, both Minemizu and the subject are moving in the current, so he only gets a brief window to engage.

Naturally, there's the gear component to consider as well. Minemizu uses Nauticam housing and the Canon EOS R5 with the EF-EOS R converter. For lenses, he sticks with the EF-S 35mm F2.8 Macro IS STM and EF-S 60mm F2.8 Macro USM lenses. He's opted for APS-C lenses because the equivalent focal lengths are ideal for his subject matter, especially the 35mm lens. He says he's eagerly awaiting an "RF-mount standard macro lens that fully takes advantage of a full-frame sensor’s capabilities," however.

Minemizu's setup weighs 14kg (31lbs), but is perfectly balanced for working underwater. Photo: Ryo Minemizu

Minemizu says that on land, his setup weighs 14 kilograms (about 31 pounds). To manage that heft underwater, he adjusts the balance and weight using float arms so the camera is perfectly level and neutrally buoyant, meaning it isn't sinking or floating. Those float arms are attached to the top and bottom, making it easier to rotate the camera vertically.

Beyond all the technical challenges, blackwater dives introduce physical risk. For safety reasons, Minemizu says he limits his dives to 25 meters (82') at night, though most are between 10 and 20 meters (32.8 to 65.6'). Occasionally, the subject he's photographing will begin to descend to deeper water, and he'll need to decide whether to follow or not. "Following it too far can become dangerous," he said. "In such cases, I need to maintain discipline and accept that there are moments I must let go."

Larval margined flying fish. Photo: Ryo Minemizu

While Minemizu's images are beautiful, they also contribute to science. Some of the subjects he's photographed are entirely new scientific observations. "In order to recognize such cases on the spot, it is essential for me to have a broad knowledge of plankton, acquired through my own study," said Minemizu. He is working in collaboration with scientists from the Smithsonian Institution and conducting joint studies with universities and specialists studying jellyfish, cephalopod larvae, crustacean larvae and the larvae of various other invertebrates.

You can see more of Minemizu's incredible images on his website.

Photo: Richard Butler

With the S1II, Panasonic continues the tradition of offering "open gate" recording that uses the entire sensor area, which, like with the S5II, produces a roughly 6K 3:2 image (though the S1II's rolling shutter is substantially faster). This mode provides great levels of detail and more flexibility in post; if you're working on a 4K timeline, you have a fair amount of room to reframe a shot, and you can use the same footage for both landscape and vertical output.

The camera also has a 5.1K open gate mode with a little less resolution and detail. That cuts down on its flexibility, but allows for a first for full-frame Lumix cameras: open gate recording at 60p. The 5.1K 24p and 60p modes apparently have the same level of detail.

The camera's 4K modes are all oversampled from 6K capture, and have similar levels of detail to those of competitors like the Z6III and EOS R6 II, even at up to 60p. The S1II can't quite manage full-width 4K 120p, but the mode only requires a 1.24x crop, rather than a 1.5x crop like with the Z6III. So while there's some reduction in detail compared to the slower framerates, it does capture a tad more detail than the Nikon, and will come with a smaller change to your field of view.

If you don't prefer oversampling, the S1II also offers a 16:9 5.9K capture mode and a 1.89:1 5.8K capture mode, both of which are available at up to 60p. The extra resolution offers a bit more detail and more flexibility in post, though not quite as much as the 6K open-gate mode.

Raw video

Like the S1RII, the S1II can record ProRes Raw internally, capturing a native 5.8K region of the sensor at up to 30p, or a native DCI 4K region at up to 60p. This mode may be useful for those on professional shoots that need the utmost control over their footage, but for reasons we explained in the S1RII writeup, Raw video isn't something that most shooters will likely find useful. In short, it doesn't offer the same benefits that stills shooters expect from Raw images versus JPEG ones, and it will require a lot of post-processing work, especially if you're using modern mirrorless lenses that have geometric distortion correction as part of their optical formula, as Panasonic's implementation of ProRes Raw doesn't embed them.

The S1II is absolutely bursting with video modes, so this overview is far from comprehensive. Our chart detailing them in our initial review covers 166 different options, and it isn't even a complete list of all the configurations you can have. However, our testing shows that it's very capable of producing high-quality footage, even at fast framerates. Combine that with all the video assistance features that Panasonic includes, and it's one of the most flexible hybrid shooters we've seen.

Thephoblographer reports that OM System is still considering a Pen F camera successor:

“We have the need from the market regarding the range finder style (camera) with viewfinder…it’s great feedback for us. And now we are considering what new PEN series model we can offer as OM SYSTEM. Yeah, of course, we cannot say more…but of course, we are thinking.”

OM SYSTEM on a new PEN camera: “The PEN series is a core part of the OM SYSTEM lineup, and we are actively exploring the possibility of a successor“

Via 43addict

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AstrHori released the AF 27mm f/2.8 lens for Sony E and Fuji X mounts (the lens already exists for Z mount):

• Astrhori store
• B&H Photo
• Amazon US
• Amazon CA
• Amazon UK
• Amazon DE

Additional informtion:

• Frame Size: APS-C
• Focus Range: 27mm
• Weight: About 165g（Z)
• Aperture Range: F2.8-F16
• Filter Size: 52mm
• Color: Black/Tltanium (notice: the E mount is available in black color only）
• Mount: Z/X/E
• Retail price: $126

Announced: Astrhori AF 27mm f/2.8 lens for Z-mount ($126)

Sample photos:

The post AstrHori AF 27mm f/2.8 lens now available also for Sony E and Fuji X mounts appeared first on Photo Rumors.

What is shutter speed?

Shutter speed, along with aperture value, is one of the fundamental properties of exposure: ie, how much light your camera gets exposed to. A faster shutter speed helps freeze action, whereas a slower one lets in more light but can result in blurred movement.

How do I choose my shutter speed?

There are two important factors to consider when choosing a shutter speed: how fast is my subject moving? And if that's not a concern, how steadily can I hold the camera?

For sports and action, you'll need a very high shutter speed. For portraits of a subject who's posing, you can get away with something much slower, but in low light, there'll be a limit to how long you can hold the camera without shaking it, even if your camera or lens has image stabilization.

Working at the other extreme, long exposures can give some interesting creative effects: blurring the motion of crowds or traffic, or conveying a flowing effect with water, rather than freezing its movement.

Much of the time, you're more likely to want to set your shutter speed (or let your camera set the shutter speed) in response to your choice of aperture value and the light level in your scene.

We'll be continuing this series with more discussions on the fundamentals of exposure and photography. Check back soon for links to more entries!

Photo: Richard Butler

With the release of the S1II, Panasonic became the second company to market a camera with a "Partially Stacked" sensor, which uses more sophisticated readout circuits to get data off the sensor faster than possible with existing BSI designs. (Though not nearly as fast as fully Stacked designs allow.) We've had the chance to put it in front of our studio test scene to see how it performs in terms of image quality and dynamic range.

Our test scene is designed to simulate a variety of textures, colors, and detail types you'll encounter in the real world. It also has two illumination modes, full even light and low directional light, to see the effect of different lighting conditions.

The S1II performs well at shooting our test scene, providing great image quality. Looking at base ISO Raws, the S1II captures similar levels of detail as the other 24MP full-frame cameras on the market*, though Panasonic's JPEG engine doesn't seem to get rid of quite as much moiré artefacting as Nikon or Canon's.

Speaking of that JPEG engine, we've been pleased with Panasonic's colors for a while now, and the S1II is no exception; like the rest of its competition and the company's previous cameras, its colors are solid.

At mid ISOs to high ISOs the S1II's noise levels are competitive. Its JPEG engine does an admirable job of reducing noise while still retaining detail.

* The S1II's price puts it in competition with much slower, but higher-resolution cameras like the Sony a7CR and Panasonic's own S1RII; if you care more about image quality than speed, that's worth noting.

Dynamic Range

The S1II provides a good amount of dynamic range, giving you room to pull your shadows up without the detail being overwhelmed by noise. However, given the lack of chroma noise visible in our tests, it seems like there may be some noise reduction going on, either in ACR or in-camera. Either way, there's plenty to be squeezed out of the files, with no nasty surprises, though you will see the effects of a little extra read noise if you're shooting at base ISO to maximize dynamic range.

Exposure Latitude | ISO Invariance

This is still a relatively new sensor, but it seems like Panasonic is getting a lot out of it. The S1II's image quality is very similar to other 24MP full-frame cameras with much slower burst rates and less capable video specs. Speaking of, be sure to stay tuned: tomorrow we'll be taking a look at video stills from the S1II.

Sigma will soon announce a new ART 35mm f/1.2 DG DN II lens for Sony E and Leica L mount (replacement for the current Sigma 35mm f/1.2 DG DN Art):

On the leaked picture, the new lens is on the bottom - it will be significantly smaller and probably more expensive. Stay tuned for more updates.

The post New Sigma ART 35mm f/1.2 DG DN II lens leaked online appeared first on Photo Rumors.

May 2025 CIPA numbers

Upcoming Nikon Z8/Z9 photography classes with Steve Simon

The new and improved Megadap ETZ21 Pro+ autofocus adapter is now available for pre-order (Sony E lens to Nikon Z camera)

Disney is Dumping Nikon For Sony‽

Sigma 250–500mm f/6: The Super-Telephoto Zoom Redefined

Fujifilm TX-3 Patent Round Up and Projections

The latest OM SYSTEM offers in the US and Europe

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