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Sample gallery
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Now that we've had some more time with the Panasonic S9, we've updated our sample gallery to include examples of Panasonic's Real Time LUTs as well as some Raw conversions, including one image designed to push the camera's dynamic range.
Note: Please do not reproduce any of these images on a website or any newsletter/magazine without prior permission (see our copyright page). We make the originals available for private users to download to their own machines for personal examination or printing (in conjunction with this review); we do so in good faith, so please don't abuse it.
I found it interesting to see Leica launch a new D-Lux camera last week, as I'd been thinking about a previous model (or, at least, about its Panasonic sister model) just recently.
Panasonic's LX series taught me two important lessons about cameras and how to review them. The first, which I've written about before, was how much difference a larger sensor and a brighter lens can make. The other was that the value of a feature can be greatly enhanced by making it easy to access. And there's no easier way to change a setting than with a dedicated, marked control point.
The main line of LX cameras and their Leica variants have dedicated switches on the top of their lenses, which not only make it easy to switch between the different framing modes but also serve as a constant reminder that the feature is available.
This makes sense: from the LX3 onwards, the cameras have had multi-aspect sensors, i.e. sensors that are larger than the lens' coverage. This means the different crops push all the way out to the limit of the imaging circle projected by the lens so that they maintain the same diagonal angle of view. This is a big difference from most cameras, which simply crop in further and further from their sensor's native shape, meaning 16:9 isn't really as wide as you might hope.
The Panasonic LX3 was the first Panasonic model to include an aspect ratio switch on top of the lens. It not only made it easy to switch between modes, but served as a constant reminder that this feature was available.
It's a stand-out feature (albeit one where you never get to use the full sensor size you've paid for), and it makes sense to literally put it front and center on the camera. That prominent, dedicated switch reminds you to play with image format every time you look down at the camera, meaning you're more likely to take advantage of the multi-aspect design.
This experience was front-of-mind when I unpacked the Fujifilm X-T50 and saw its dedicated Film Simulation dial. I think it's a very smart move on Fujifilm's part. Film Simulations, along with a broad selection of lenses designed for APS-C, are one of the distinctive benefits of its X-series cameras. It makes sense to draw attention to it and encourage its use.
"That prominent, dedicated switch reminds you to play with image format every time you look down at the camera"
It also sends out a strong signal about who the camera is for. The double-digit X-T models have always been aimed at people getting into photography, not existing enthusiasts. These are often people who buy a camera for an event or because they want to try their hand at photography and are perhaps most at risk of falling back to the ease of use and sharability of smartphone images, leaving their cameras to accumulate dust. Providing a constant reminder and easy access to one of the key features that sets the camera apart could be a really powerful way to maintain their engagement.
The Fujifilm X-T50 includes a dedicated dial for switching between film simulations.
On such a small camera, each control comes at the expense of another, and to me, it makes a lot of sense to privilege Film Sims over the drive mode dial. Which control will the target user want to change most often? To me, it seems self-evident that Film Simulation is a setting you might wish to change literally every other shot, whereas drive mode is something to change each time you go out to shoot a different subject type. And every camera has drive modes: it makes sense for Fujifilm to pull its differentiating feature to the fore.
I agree with the commenters who point out that it would be better if the custom positions on the dial could be modified to have parameters such as highlights, shadows and color chrome effect baked in as recipes, and I'd love to see this in future firmware.
"On such a small camera, each control comes at the expense of another, and to me, it makes a lot of sense to privilege Film Sims over the drive mode dial."
But to those people objecting to the change, saying, "Without the mode dial, I'd be better off buying an X-T5," I'd suggest this isn't the criticism they might think it is. The X-T50 isn't supposed to be a smaller, less expensive X-T5; it's meant to be tailored to a different type of user, not enthusiasts on a tighter budget.
So, to my eye, the Film Simulation dial isn't a dumbing-down but an astute move to encourage the target user to discover and use one of its most compelling features. Other than the Film Sim dial, a lot else has changed between the X-T30 II and X-T50, including the addition of image stabilization, a higher resolution sensor and an eye-watering 55% price hike. But in terms of the Film Simulation control, I think the series has taken a turn for the better.
June is packed with multiple days celebrating Mother Nature. Get out there and touch grass; we want to see your best nature photos.
Image credit: Shaminder Dulai
June is packed with multiple days devoted to celebrating nature. We kick it off on June 5 with World Environment Day, continue on June 8 with World Oceans Day and June 22 brings us World Rainforest Day. So let's get outside. We want to see your best nature images! Take part in the official DPReview Editor's Challenges for your chance to have your work featured on our homepage, in articles and galleries. We may even reach out to interview you about your work!
You don't need to take your pictures on the world recognition days. Anytime starting today is okay. Just be sure to submit your best work by June 13.
DPReview editors will review every photo you upload to an Editors' Challenge. We'll publish our favorites in a gallery and celebrate your work with our peers.
Submissions are now open; you have until Thursday, June 13, 2024, to submit. User voting will begin thereafter and will help inform DPReview Editors' Picks, but will not select them. They are one factor in our evaluation of submissions.
Canon is teasing a new cinema EOS camera announcement for next week. The presentation will take place on June 5th at 3 pm EST and can be watched on YouTube.
I found it interesting to see Leica launch a new D-Lux camera last week, as I'd been thinking about a previous model (or, at least, about its Panasonic sister model) just recently.
Panasonic's LX series taught me two important lessons about cameras and how to review them. The first, which I've written about before, was how much difference a larger sensor and a brighter lens can make. The other was that the value of a feature can be greatly enhanced by making it easy to access. And there's no easier way to change a setting than with a dedicated, marked control point.
The main line of LX cameras and their Leica variants have dedicated switches on the top of their lenses, which not only make it easy to switch between the different framing modes but also serve as a constant reminder that the feature is available.
This makes sense: from the LX3 onwards, the cameras have had multi-aspect sensors, i.e. sensors that are larger than the lens' coverage. This means the different crops push all the way out to the limit of the imaging circle projected by the lens so that they maintain the same diagonal angle of view. This is a big difference from most cameras, which simply crop in further and further from their sensor's native shape, meaning 16:9 isn't really as wide as you might hope.
The Panasonic LX3 was the first Panasonic model to include a multi aspect sensor and the dedicated switch made the most of this. It not only made it easy to switch between modes, but served as a constant reminder that this feature was available.
It's a stand-out feature (albeit one where you never get to use the full sensor size you've paid for), and it makes sense to literally put it front and center on the camera. That prominent, dedicated switch reminds you to play with image format every time you look down at the camera, meaning you're more likely to take advantage of the multi-aspect design.
This experience was front-of-mind when I unpacked the Fujifilm X-T50 and saw its dedicated Film Simulation dial. I think it's a very smart move on Fujifilm's part. Film Simulations, along with a broad selection of lenses designed for APS-C, are one of the distinctive benefits of its X-series cameras. It makes sense to draw attention to it and encourage its use.
"That prominent, dedicated switch reminds you to play with image format every time you look down at the camera"
It also sends out a strong signal about who the camera is for. The double-digit X-T models have always been aimed at people getting into photography, not existing enthusiasts. These are often people who buy a camera for an event or because they want to try their hand at photography and are perhaps most at risk of falling back to the ease of use and sharability of smartphone images, leaving their cameras to accumulate dust. Providing a constant reminder and easy access to one of the key features that sets the camera apart could be a really powerful way to maintain their engagement.
The Fujifilm X-T50 includes a dedicated dial for switching between film simulations.
On such a small camera, each control comes at the expense of another, and to me, it makes a lot of sense to privilege Film Sims over the drive mode dial. Which control will the target user want to change most often? To me, it seems self-evident that Film Simulation is a setting you might wish to change literally every other shot, whereas drive mode is something to change each time you go out to shoot a different subject type. And every camera has drive modes: it makes sense for Fujifilm to pull its differentiating feature to the fore.
I agree with the commenters who point out that it would be better if the custom positions on the dial could be modified to have parameters such as highlights, shadows and color chrome effect baked in as recipes, and I'd love to see this in future firmware.
"On such a small camera, each control comes at the expense of another, and to me, it makes a lot of sense to privilege Film Sims over the drive mode dial."
But to those people objecting to the change, saying, "Without the mode dial, I'd be better off buying an X-T5," I'd suggest this isn't the criticism they might think it is. The X-T50 isn't supposed to be a smaller, less expensive X-T5; it's meant to be tailored to a different type of user, not enthusiasts on a tighter budget.
So, to my eye, the Film Simulation dial isn't a dumbing-down but an astute move to encourage the target user to discover and use one of its most compelling features. Other than the Film Sim dial, a lot else has changed between the X-T30 II and X-T50, including the addition of image stabilization, a higher resolution sensor and an eye-watering 55% price hike. But in terms of the Film Simulation control, I think the series has taken a turn for the better.
June is packed with multiple days celebrating Mother Nature. Get out there and touch grass; we want to see your best nature photos.
Image credit: Shaminder Dulai
June is packed with multiple days devoted to celebrating nature. We kick it off on June 5 with World Environment Day, continue on June 8 with World Oceans Day and June 22 brings us World Rainforest Day. So let's get outside. We want to see your best nature images! Take part in the official DPReview Editor's Challenges for your chance to have your work featured on our homepage, in articles and galleries. We may even reach out to interview you about your work!
You don't need to take your pictures on the world recognition days. Anytime starting today is okay. Just be sure to submit your best work by June 13.
DPReview editors will review every photo you upload to an Editors' Challenge. We'll publish our favorites in a gallery and celebrate your work with our peers.
Submissions are now open; you have until Thursday, June 13, 2024, to submit. User voting will begin thereafter and will help inform DPReview Editors' Picks, but will not select them. They are one factor in our evaluation of submissions.
Lux, the team behind the Apple Design Award-winning photography app Halide, has announced Kino, an app that it claims will bring pro-level video tools to iPhone users.
The developers state that Kino is intended to give users complete control in both automatic and manual shooting modes based on some clever built-in logic. The app includes a feature called AutoMotion, which automatically sets a 180º shutter angle in order to create cinematic motion blur. An 'Auto' label turns green when the settings are just right, letting you know you're good to go. If the camera can't achieve a 180º shutter, such as when shooting outdoors in bright light, you may need to add an ND filter to allow the shutter to lock onto the correct angle.
Another headline feature is Instant Grade, which takes advantage of Apple Log, available on the newest iPhone 15 Pro models. Apple's camera app records Log footage in ProRes format, which creates large files and requires editing to finalize color; Instant Grade will allow users to apply color presets directly to Apple Log footage as it's being captured and saves the recordings in the more efficient HEVC format, allowing for cinematic video straight out of camera. The app includes color presets from pro colorists, but users can import their own LUTs into the app as well.
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Kino includes color presets created by professional colorists.
The app also includes advanced features, such as the ability to save files into either Apple's Photos app or to a specific file location, composition guides, audio levels, USB-C storage compatibility, RGB waveform, manual focus with peaking, WB/AE lock, exposure compensation and a lockable user interface.
For beginners who may not be as familiar with a video-first workflow, the app will include free lessons on the basics of shooting video.
Kino is available beginning today at a promotional price of $9.99, though the company indicated that the price will increase to $19.99 "a few days after launch."
"All camera and lens manufacturers have to be innovative," says Sigma CEO Kazuto Yamaki, but "technology competition among manufacturers may not always be beneficial to customers... Easier to use interfaces, compact and lightweight bodies for enhanced portability, or some other specifications might be more important."
In the second part of a wide-ranging interview conducted at the CP+ show in Yokohama in late February, Yamaki talked about current state of the market, the need for innovation and the challenges of delivering that innovation.
State of the market
"Last year was not so bad," he says, when asked about the state of the market: "It looks like the trend of the shrinking market has hit the bottom." But he suggests this may not continue: "For the time being, many photographers are now switching from DSLR to mirrorless, which will sustain the market. However, after they switch to mirrorless cameras, I worry that the market could shrink in the coming years."
"One reason for my concern is the increasing average price of cameras and lenses. I truly appreciate the passion of the customers who are still spending so much money on cameras and lenses. However, I’m afraid that not so many customers can afford such high-priced cameras and lenses, so we’re still trying hard to keep the retail price reasonable."
"I’m afraid that not so many customers can afford such high-priced cameras and lenses"
"Especially these days, the younger generation takes huge amounts of photos with smartphones. While we can expect some of them to switch from a smartphone to a camera, many may find the price gap too wide, and challenging to make the switch."
Yamaki also expresses concern about some of the tech trends he's seeing: "Investing in the development of more advanced technology is crucial. However, it’s equally important to focus on our customers."
"We've seen some cameras with very technically impressive specifications, but I worry that they're not always capabilities that many photographers really need. Moving forward, I speculate that more user-friendly specifications might mean more to customers. Easier to use interfaces, a compact and lightweight body for enhanced portability, or some other specifications might be more important."
The challenges of innovation
Sigma has launched some ambitious and unusual lenses in recent years, including the 14mm F1.4 DG DN. Yamaki describes astrophotography, for which it's designed, as the most challenging subject.
Image: Sigma
He uses the recently announced 500mm F5.6 as an example of customer-focused innovation. “Canon and Nikon had similar lenses for DSLRs. They achieved it by using diffractive lens elements," he explains: "Instead of using one powerful diffractive element, we used multiple special low-dispersion [SLD] glass. We used one SLD and three FLD elements. By using multiple special lenses, we could achieve a similar effect. That’s how we can make it so compact and lightweight."
But this approach isn't simple, he says: "It requires lots of very high manufacturing technology and skill, but because we have a very good factory and our optical designers trust the capability of our factory, we were able to go for this design.”
"In most cases, we are the first to use new types of glass, and once they see Sigma use that lens element, they start using it."
"This trust is really, really important," he explains: "Lens polishing is still a unique process that has a lower yield. Normally, in something like electronics, the yield ratio is something like 99.99996 percent, or something like that. But when it comes to lenses, for example, in our case, because our yield is so high, our yield ratio from the start of the process to the end is close to 90%. So if we plan to build 1,000 units of a specific lens, we have to start polishing 1,100 pieces, and during the process, about 10% of the lens elements will fail and have to be scrapped.”
A question of trust
"That’s the reason why other companies hesitate to use new glass elements. They are uncertain about the yield ratio. In most cases, we are the first to use a new type of element, and once they see Sigma use that lens element, they start using it. I’m very happy to play such a role. Sigma is kind of the guinea pig in the lens industry: they use Sigma as an experiment, and if we prove it, they use it."
This commitment to pushing the use of new glass types reflects Yamaki's wider vision of the company's role. This can be seen in the ambitious lenses it's recently introduced aimed at astrophotography, he says.
"First of all, I believe it’s one of Sigma's missions to create niche products. If we only concentrate on standard products and release lower-priced versions, it’s not good: we would not be able to contribute to the development of the photography culture. As a lens manufacturer it’s our mission to develop such niche lenses that satisfy a specific target group."
"Secondly, most lenses are so good, maybe much better than people’s expectations. But only astrophotographers are never satisfied: they’re so keen for quality! They’re looking at the shape of stars in the corners. Star images are the toughest, most challenging subject, or let’s say, the most nasty lens chart. You can see all kinds of aberrations in star images. That’s why we want to show what we can do with our capability. So lenses for astrophotography is my personal strong passion to show the capability of Sigma's technology."
The future of APS-C
Yamaki says the audience for its I-series of full-frame lenses, such as the 17mm F4 DG DN pictured, is similar to that for the DC DN range of APS-C primes. However, it doesn't sound like there are plans for I-series-style versions of the DC lenses.
Image: Sigma
With all this talk of niches, we steered the conversation towards the DC DN primes. We wanted to know whether he sees the users of these lenses as distinct from those of the mid-priced i-Series full-frame primes, which feature metal bodies and aperture rings.
"I see they are very similar customers: those who value compactness and image quality. These customers often live in big cities and use public transportation a lot. So they cannot carry around big, heavy equipment in the car. They have to carry it around in their bags."
Despite this, it doesn't sound like there are any plans to refresh the DC DNs with more i-Series-like designs: "Those who want full-frame can use the I series lenses, while those who are happy with APS-C cameras can use the many lightweight DC DN lenses," he says.
But, while we won't expect APS-C primes with aperture rings for X-mount or the Nikon Z fc any time soon, Yamaki's comments about his commitment to APS-C bode well, given the announcement that it'll make lenses for both Nikon's Z mount and Canon's RF system:
"Our plan is to have a relatively complete range of lenses for APS-C sized sensors."
This article was based on an interview conducted by Dale Baskin and Richard Butler at the CP+ show in Yokohama, Japan.
Every week, we ask newsletter subscribers a question about gear, creativity or life. We recently asked readers: If you could go back to your 20-year-old self, what camera-related advice would you give yourself?
Subsequently, the DPReview editors also got in on the act:
1. Shaminder Dulai
Start organizing your photo and video archive and making it searchable. Make sure to save local versions of client work; websites will disappear and take your work with them. A good archival system makes it possible to earn a passive income from these photos and videos in the future and curate your work for grant applications and shows.
Don't get caught up in the gear; there will always be something better that comes along. Make things. Whatever you can get your hands on, just use it and make stuff. The more you practice and embrace the failures, the more you'll learn and improve.
There will be people who will try to discourage you; they'll tell you you don't have the right gear, the right skills, or the right name, and some will even steal your ideas and pass them off as their own. These will be hard lessons, and you'll need to learn to put yourself before others. It won't be easy.
Also, buy as much Apple stock as you can afford and spend more time with your parents. Ask them the questions you always were too afraid to ask.
2. Dale Baskin
I'd probably give the same advice I would give a 20-year-old today: Don’t obsess about having fancy gear or the newest camera. Buy something used in good condition and save some money, then spend the money you save on fun experiences that allow you to focus on learning the art of photography.
3. Richard Butler
I'd tell myself to think more carefully about lenses. To try to work out which are the focal lengths I'd actually use. I'd recommend going back through the photos I'd taken to see what you're trying to capture (and would have found I was typically trying to shoot wider, not longer than my kit zoom would go). I'd advise myself to consider whether the discipline (and compactness) of a prime would be better in the long-run than the seemingly obvious F2.8 zoom. With this advice I'd have avoided a fair few dead-ends, avoided the cost of some under-use lenses and probably have learned more about how to shoot, sooner.
What's your take? Let us know in the comments.
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We had a chance to shoot with the Fujifilm X-T50 for quite a while, so we put together a first-look video, outlining what it can offer, as well as shooting a sample gallery using a variety of Film Simulations.
As always, all the Raw files are available to download if you wish to see how your preferred software handles them.
Sample gallery
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Please do not reproduce any of these images on a website or any newsletter/magazine without prior permission (see our copyright page). We make the originals available for private users to download to their own machines for personal examination or printing (in conjunction with this review); we do so in good faith, so please don't abuse it.
There's nothing like unwrapping a new camera for the first time.
Having a brand new camera is an exciting time for a photographer. But before you head for the hills, the studio or a far-flung destination, it’s a smart idea to adjust a few important camera settings first. A few tweaks and adjustments up front can mean the difference between fluid work and frustration.
How you set up your menu and customize your buttons and dials is a very personal matter. It depends on what you shoot, which features you use and how you like to work. No matter what you’re focused on, there are a few common settings that all photographers need to get set right straight out of the box.
The Great Menu Expansion
Perhaps the most consistent change in cameras in the digital era is the size and complexity of the menu system. As an example of this growth consider Canon’s first mainstream DSLR, the Canon D30 from the year 2000, whose menu featured a total of 31 items on one long scrolling list. Canon’s recent pro-level R3, on the other hand, offers 433 menu items organized into 8 categories or tabs.
Canon and other manufacturers have done a reasonable job (some better than others) at organizing all these features into relatively logical categories like: Image quality, Playback, AF, and Wireless. However, they give you no clue as to which items you should adjust straight out of the box – which ones are better to turn off or keep on most of the time.
Perhaps the most consistent change in cameras in the digital era is the size and complexity of the menu system.
For this reason, many photographers tweak a few items as they need them and leave the rest of the menu for a time when they have nothing better to do than read a camera instruction manual – which is likely never. They then wind up living with discomfort in their shooting experience that would be easy to fix.
This article provides a short list of must-change items for all photographers. The out-of-the-box factory settings (or worse, the previous owner’s settings) may not have these settings adjusted for your needs. While I could go on all day about this, let’s start with a few hot items you’ll want to adjust on your new camera.
Diopter
Yes, the topic of this article is on menu settings and the first item isn’t in the menu. Point noted, now let's move on. The diopter is the focus adjustment for your camera's viewfinder. Somewhere near the eyepiece is a small knurled knob, possibly with plus and minus labels. Turning this knob will adjust lens elements in the viewfinder to adapt the clarity of the view for people with different vision needs.
You'll see clearly once your diopter is correctly adjusted.
When the diopter is adjusted properly, you'll have a way better time seeing both your subject and the information displayed in the electronic viewfinder of a mirrorless camera or the focusing screen of a DSLR. If the diopter is slightly off you’ll likely still see a sharp image but your eyes will need to strain to keep everything in focus. A properly adjusted diopter will make viewing comfortable and strain-free.
These little knobs can easily be adjusted by accident and it's not uncommon to look through your viewfinder and be suddenly shocked at how bad your eyesight has gotten. While some knobs have better locks than others, almost every camera I’ve used has needed this adjusted at the start, and again at various intervals. This is a rather unglamorous way to start the personalization of your camera, but without it the whole world could be a blur to you.
File Format
There is perhaps no setting as important as the file type. We’ll sidestep the whole Raw vs JPEG debate here, and we’ll simply state that whatever you decide is right for you is something you need to set up on your camera right away.
A Raw file, for the newbies out there, contains all the original capture information in an image, far more than the efficient subset contained in a JPEG. It allows you greater leeway in post-processing to recover details from shadows or highlights and to change fundamental aspects like white balance or color. The downside is that the file size is a bit on the big side (compared to JPEG) and requires special software to view and work on the image. While your camera manufacturer provides free software to do so, many people prefer to use popular photo-editing software from companies like Adobe or Capture One.
Whether you value the flexibility of Raw files, or the convenience of JPEG, make sure you've picked a file format before heading out the door.
The JPEG file is a small convenient file that can be opened and viewed by pretty much any computer or viewing device made in the last 25 years. The downside to the JPEG is that the file is processed and compressed. While convenient for sharing online and fine for printing unaltered, it lacks the information depth of color and tones that a skilled photo editor would appreciate when working in the digital darkroom.
Thankfully, most camera manufacturers know that file type is an important setting, and it’s usually located at or near the top of the menu. You'll also often find a shortcut to this feature in the Quick or Function menu or Control grid screen.
You can shoot Raw and JPEG at the same time, but this should only be done if you truly need it. If you have a Raw file you can make a JPEG anytime you want, in any quantity, with any adjustment you like, so long as you have a computer, the right software and the time to do it. The best time to simultaneously shoot both Raw and JPEG is when you have an immediate need for the JPEG and a long-term desire for the Raw.
Thankfully, most manufacturers know that file type is important and it’s usually located at or near the top of most menus.
Get this set right first, and if you change your photography workflow from time to time be sure to come back and revisit it. The current file type status is often displayed in the viewfinder or on the rear screen for easy monitoring.
Card Format
Photos from your camera will likely be stored on a removable memory card, and like any storage area (digital or real) it should be cleared of unnecessary clutter before use. Each camera manufacturer has a slightly different way of communicating with the card and storing images on it. To create a clean, reliable line of communication between camera and card it is highly recommended that you 'format' a new card inside the camera before heading out to capture photos.
Formatting your digital storage medium with a new camera ensures they'll become fast friends.
Be advised that formatting a card will delete all the photos on it, along with any folders, seen or unseen, and will set up a new storage structure and path. Formatting is also recommended when heading out on a new shoot, so long as the photos from the last shoot have been downloaded and backed up first. There’s nothing like starting with a clean slate.
Date and Time
Mundane and trivial to some, the capture date and time of every image is stored in its metadata (extra information that can be viewed by software) and having it correct may potentially save headaches in the future. Many cameras now have simple adjustments for traveling to different time zones and adjusting for daylight saving time so that you don’t need to fiddle with the actual time setting. I’ve found that cameras are not particularly accurate in their timekeeping over the long haul, so if you're fussy about having exactly the right time stamp on your photos you may need to revisit this feature every few months or so.
Having the correct date and time set on your camera can help you remember when you captured photos.
Copyright Info
Another item in the image metadata that may be beneficial at some point in the future is setting your name and any other pertinent personal info. Be advised that this data can be overwritten by anyone with access to your digital file. This setting is for information that may be helpful to you or others, but it is not in the realm of lock-tight security options.
Adding your name in the copyright field provides a very low level of security; think of it simply as a note that it is you who took the photo, or at the very least an image that came from your camera. This can be convenient if your images have been casually mixed with others and you need to identify the owner or creator.
Embedding copyright information can help identify your photos or even recover your camera.
You can also use this setting to put in specific copyright information like 'All Rights Reserved,' to let anyone else with access to the file know what your intentions are. Once again, though, be advised that this can easily be overwritten by the laziest of hackers. A potential use for this area is your contact information, usually in email form. Should your camera be lost or stolen it could provide a link back to you. True, the bad guy won’t care about this, but the honest one who does want to do the right thing will have information on how to contact you.
Set up and head out
None of these settings will help you create great photos, but they can make the experience of shooting with your new camera a bit easier. Paging through the labyrinth of the menu system isn’t the first choice of activity for a photographer, but trust me, there’s a lot of useful stuff in there. Getting your camera set up specifically for your needs is like getting a custom tailored suit – it will prepare you for whatever may come and give you confidence when you head out into the world.
What settings and adjustment do you make straight out of the box? Tell us in the comments.
John Greengo specializes in photographic education through online training, books and international photo tours. His photographic teachings have been viewed by millions around the globe.
His website offers a growing collection of highly visual photography courses. Classes cover a wide range of photographic topics including landscape, travel and gear-specific tutorials. His impressive collection of camera guides provides viewers with detailed instruction on every aspect of the camera's operation.
Instant Rendering (Experimental): Video AI now renders previews as soon as you click ‘Play’. Instant renders make the timeline more interactive and allow you to directly compare models with shorter wait times.
Frame Interpolation for DaVinci Resolve OFX (macOS + Windows): Access Apollo, Aion, and Chronos directly from DaVinci Resolve. Convert to slow motion at up to 16x interpolation and make use of Resolve’s retiming controls for smooth speed-ramping.
New multi-GPU options (Video AI Pro): Video AI now includes two multi-GPU modes. The existing “All GPUs” option now supports NVIDIA cards running TensorRT models, leading to major utilization increases for systems with 2+ NVIDIA cards. This mode is now named “Single video” under “GPU Settings”. The second mode, “Multiple videos”, optimizes for large export queues when running on systems with multiple GPUs. We’ll have more to share about this Video AI Pro feature when it launches in June.
New Welcome Screen: Quickly reopen projects and resume renders using the new Welcome Page. This is a home for recent projects and includes the ability to select favorites for easy access.
Preferences UI Refresh: Navigate settings using the new preferences sidebar with expanded categories and new tooltips.
Colorspace settings added to Video Input Options: Set custom colorspace, color primaries, color trc, and color range for video inputs with metadata issues.
Do not buy photo gear from Best Buy unless you are really planning to keep it - they have a 15% restocking fee for drones, digital cameras, camera lenses, camcorders, action cameras, and many other products:
Lux, the team behind the Apple Design Award-winning photography app Halide, has announced Kino, an app that it claims will bring pro-level video tools to iPhone users.
The developers state that Kino is intended to give users complete control in both automatic and manual shooting modes based on some clever built-in logic. The app includes a feature called AutoMotion, which automatically sets a 180º shutter angle in order to create cinematic motion blur. An 'Auto' label turns green when the settings are just right, letting you know you're good to go. If the camera can't achieve a 180º shutter, such as when shooting outdoors in bright light, you may need to add an ND filter to allow the shutter to lock onto the correct angle.
Another headline feature is Instant Grade, which takes advantage of Apple Log, available on the newest iPhone 15 Pro models. Apple's camera app records Log footage in ProRes format, which creates large files and requires editing to finalize color; Instant Grade will allow users to apply color presets directly to Apple Log footage as it's being captured and saves the recordings in the more efficient HEVC format, allowing for cinematic video straight out of camera. The app includes color presets from pro colorists, but users can import their own LUTs into the app as well.
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Kino includes color presets created by professional colorists.
The app also includes advanced features, such as the ability to save files into either Apple's Photos app or to a specific file location, composition guides, audio levels, USB-C storage compatibility, RGB waveform, manual focus with peaking, WB/AE lock, exposure compensation and a lockable user interface.
For beginners who may not be as familiar with a video-first workflow, the app will include free lessons on the basics of shooting video.
Kino is available beginning today at a promotional price of $9.99, though the company indicated that the price will increase to $19.99 "a few days after launch."
13 on Natural Light: Whether you’re capturing the golden glow of sunrise, the harsh shadows of midday, or the soft, diffused light of an overcast day, these cheat sheets will equip you with the knowledge and techniques to take advantage of natural light in any situation.
7 on Artificial Light: Navigating the complexities of artificial lighting presents a unique set of challenges for photographers, from beginners to seasoned professionals. Artificial light, unlike its natural counterpart, requires a deeper understanding of light intensity, color temperature, and direction to achieve the desired effect.
4 on Flash Photography: Flash photography, while immensely powerful, introduces a spectrum of challenges that can test even the most experienced photographers. The primary hurdle lies in mastering the balance between the flash’s intensity and the ambient light, ensuring that the final image looks natural rather than overpowered by harsh lighting.
11 on Portrait Lighting: Mastering portrait lighting techniques is an art form that presents its own set of intricate challenges. Each style demands a precise understanding of light placement, shadow control, and subject orientation to achieve its signature effect. Photographers must navigate these complexities, blending technical precision with creative vision, to capture portraits that not only illuminate but also reveal the essence of their subject.
8 on Lighting Effects: Lighting effects are the brushstrokes of the photographer’s palette, offering endless possibilities to infuse images with emotion, depth, and atmosphere. The artful application of lens flares can add a cinematic quality, imbuing shots with a sense of story and timelessness, while the deliberate use of starbursts around light sources can create a sense of wonder and energy. Bokeh, with its soft, out-of-focus lights, transforms the mundane into the magical, drawing the viewer’s attention to the intended subject with a gentle, enveloping embrace. Mastering these effects requires not only a technical understanding of photography and lighting but also a creative vision that sees beyond the subject to the very essence of the scene. Through lighting effects, photographers can sculpt light, craft ambiance, and convey emotions, turning simple images into captivating stories.
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